Nicolinux

Wait until it cools and then it comes off. A bit harder than PLA+heated bed for example, but I did not have any problems so far. Never broke something.

With hacking I mean that it is not officially supported to swap the board with something else on the UM2. I don't know what you'd need to do. I guess there is lots of Marlin firmware hacking involved.

I used 3DLac spray (I think it is just re-branded hairspray...) to make xt and xtcf-20 stick. I don't spray it on the glass but on a tissue and wipe the bed with it.

I don't think it is the feeder. I mean if it were, then all others would report problems too. I upgraded too and there are zero problems (in this regard).

Well I do expect him to know that I was thinking about the next steps if the obvious doesn't work.

I don't think you can replace the board - at least not with lots of hacking. I think you are better off if you fix OctoPrint <-> Rpi somehow. It could be just something stupid like a broken USB cable or a bad sd card that acts up just when the printer is connected. What happens exactly? It might be a good idea to ask on OctoPrint Google+ or directly on Github. There are lots of people using OctoPrint on a RPI with the UM2, so it should work. Also find out what kind of Raspberry Pi you use. I had lots of problems with the China clone... And make sure that you use a power supply that has enough power to drive the Rpi.

Hey @Harish, If the filament doesn't move, you can unscrew the nozzle and see what's up with it. Heat up first (menu advanced settings -> maintenance -> heatup nozzle). If the filament pressure is not released, then you could disassemble the feeder at the back of the printer (don't forget to turn down the nozzle temperature). In order to disassemble the feeder, unscrew the two screws on the left side and the back of the case from the motor cover Then hold the feeder motor and unscrew the four screws from the black feeder. About the filament spool - you should contact the Ultimaker reseller in India and show them photos of the bad filament. I think they will replace it.

Hi, and welcome on the forums. I'd advise against another board that's not made for the Ultimaker 2. At least not if you "only" need wireless printing. Take a look at OctoPrint. It runs on a Raspberry Pi and has a very nice web interface where you can drop .gcode files for printing.

Hi, Welcome on the forums. What did you try so far? Might help in order to exclude some potential problems. If atomic cleaning and cleaning the feeder didn't help, you need to find out what happens with the filament. Either temperature sensor not reporting the correct temperature or the nozzle is partially blocked. Do you have the Olsson Block installed?

Hi, yes check out the Menu "Machine" -> "Machine Settings".

Then I'd suggest you take a look at OctoPrint. It can be installed on a Raspberry Pi and you won't need a sd card any more. Take a look at this guide: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/18191-howto-octoprint-raspberry-pi-2-und-um2-extended-mit-standard-firmware Do you mean the firmware? Then I'd say it is safe to install the latest one that comes with Cura 15.04.5.

I guess by the time you buy another sd card you have already recouped the costs for the time you spend fixing this Maybe you stored the card somewhere where it got damaged and the sd card reader on the laptop might be more robust.

Ok, I suggest you create a new thread about it. By the way, what was the reason the feeder was blocked?

Ok, then you need to take the feeder apart. It is not hard to do. Remove the left cover from the inside of the printer (it is held with two screws together). Then while holding the feeder motor, remove the four screws from the feeder. You can then take the feeder off the printer and disassemble it.

The feeder has one white indicator on the right side. There is a screw at the top which you can use to change the tension on the feeder. If this is an older UM, the white indicator should be at the top (smallest tension).

Does it advance past the feeder? If not then it is time to clean the feeder. There are four screws that hold it but be aware that you need to take the left motor cover (when looking from the front of the printer) in order to prevent the feeder motor from falling down when you remove the four screws.

I do have a feeling this is the winner-fork

@Oldtimer: There is a little gamification system in here where you get points for every post. If somebody likes your post you get points for that too. And if you respond to a post and the original poster chooses your answer as the best one - you'd get points too. Then you can level up and just brag around how awesome you are You can reply to a post and quote it with the "Reply" button on the right side. Then just put your answer above or below the pre-filled text. If you only want to reply to the entire thread, like I do now, just fill your text into the box at the bottom of the page and hit "Post Reply".

You'll first have to identify where the filament is stuck. Take out the bowden tube at the head end and use "move material" in the maintenance menu on the printer to move filament. If you see that it moves smoothly, then you can exclude everything until up to the printhead as the source of the problem. Maybe the bowden tube was just not properly inserted into the head and filament got stuck between the gap. Also check that the 3rd. fan is working. If if doesn't there is a slight chance that the filament heats up on its way to the head and softens thus creating a plug and jamming.

The temperature is important too. Depending on the filament type it should be at least above 180° - rather 210°. It is possible that the temperature sensor is not reporting correct values. This is not really easy to test (except if you have a thermometer handy with an external probe...).

In 11 minutes of course

Hey Emna (I don't speak French, hope English is fine too), Look at the back of the printer, when you feed in new filament and try to extrude some - is the movement of the filament smooth or does the motor skip back? Maybe something got stuck in the feeder at the back and blocks the filament. Also make sure that the filament can unroll smoothly from the filament roll.

Darum habe ich mir keine Gedanken mehr gemacht. Es wird jetzt aus einem neuen Material angefertigt welches viel länger halten sollte.

Aus Erfahrung kann ich dir sagen das ausbrennen nicht funktioniert Habe schon ein paar Düsen damit ruiniert. Wenn man keine Düsen von Ultimaker direkt kaufen kann (habe ich nie probiert), dann würde ich dir 3DSolex empfehlen.

Ne einfach nur eine andere Nozzle einsetzen, egal in welcher Größe damit du nicht mit der gleichen Nozzle PLA und T-Glase druckst. Das empfiehlt sich übrigens auch bei anderen sehr unterschiedlichen Filamentsorten. Demnach jeweils eine separate Nozzle für PLA, ABS, Nylon und exotische Sachen wie XTCF-20.