duesentrieb

Don´t know what a "strong" vase means for you. Printed out some and they were water tight and strong enough. The one that was not water tight was printed too cold. Also it´s good to print the first layers with a higer flow to get it water tight.

Especially for printing vases there is the spiralize or Joris feature in the expert settings. This results in a massiv bottom, very thin wall and no top. After printing the bottom the printer steadily increases Z, so it´s printing a very flat spiral. This results in very good prints without any Z-artifacts or so. Just activate "Spiralize" in the expert settings, look at it in the layer preview and print it.

There are many things that influence the exact dimensions of parts. Printed out some small gears this weekend ( small modiefied gears for the UM1 extruder) and they looked very, very good. On one of them you could even see very small polygons. Lowering the temperature, for example makes parts a little smaller: Increasing it makes them a little bigger. If you want to check yourself print a gear and lower or hincrease the temperature 5 °C or so and look at the flanges of the printed gear. They won´t be exactly straight. Sufficient cooling is important, too. If you still have problems with the nozzle smearing small parts, print more than once at a time to give each layer more time to cool down before the next. For ABS a heated chamber is recommended, for PLA it might work without. If the parts aren´t exactly round, check the tension of all your belts, especially the short ones. I avoided this by changing to direct drive, but if your belt tension is right a normal and good tuned UM1 is able to print really good results. I was really surprised what detailgrade is possible, with these machines. But it requires a lot of tweaking and tuning and some experience. For small gears I would also lower the printing speed to 20mm/s or even lower. Hope this helps a little. Of course calibration is important, but the standard values are pretty exact. Never changed mine and got some really exact results. And yes of course shrinkage is also a main factor and as Nallath described the easiest way to compensate is via scaling in Cura.

Ja, ist möglich. http://richrap.blogspot.de/2011/09/indestructamendel-polycarbonate-3d.html Bin mir nicht ganz sicher was Colorfabb XT oder spezielle Taulmann Filamente sind, aber ich meine das geht in Richtung Polycarbonat, sind aber vermutlich Mischungen. Hier gibts PC Filamente, sogar farbig und bezahlbar: http://reprap.me/plastic/master-filament.html Viele Grüße, Philip

Stefan, die Farbkombi ist Klasse! Würd ich auch glatt nehmen. Bin ja schon fast versucht meine Teile nochmal neu auszudrucken, in "schön". Sind jetzt gut nen Jahr alt und auf meinem unoptimierten Mendel Max mit meiner damaligen Erfahrung gedruckt. Jetzt wäre die Qualiät deutlich besser. Kann mich nur nicht für ne Farbkombi entscheiden und ich hab zuviel anderes um die Ohren. Hab heute erstmal den halben Ulti auseinander gerissen und komplett umgebaut. Direct drive, Schwingungsdämpfer, Reptar Blöcke... Deutlich leiser & genauer. Vor allem, er geht wieder! Mein weiß taugt leider gar nichts. Das sieht einfach immer bescheiden aus, egal welche Einstellung. Schwarz will ich irgendwie nicht, mal schauen, was es wird...

Cool Joris. Your the first I know who is doing a birds nest on purpose. Building support on this is smart. Now I understand why you had to stitch several files to one gcode file. Also the idea of useing cord to stabilze the prints is great. Nr one shows what might happen without. Do you use octoprint or sth to be able to shut down a printer from home? The quality of the webcams is also great. Even worked with the crappy and slow company network...

Colorfabb XT is also FDA testet and prints good with the right settings. http://colorfabb.com/xt-copolyester They also have the certificate somewhere on the homepage.

Right now it´s producing amazing Angel Fluff on one printer...

Great stuff! Love it! If you want to see Joris at work, have a look now.

Love that idea! Thought about it a year ago, but never realized it. Small worm gears are hard to source. Looking forward to see your design. Don´t know if worm gears might be printable with nylon or sth. like it. We print normal gears, so maybe. Would be great to get some more details about the design. The results are great, but Mutleys prices are a "little" too high.

Tried that, but for me it did not. Don´t know why. Added 3 layers of hairspray to a cleaned glass plate and heated it up to 70°C. Tufnol worked better. Maybe you´ve got better hairsprays over there ;-).

XT is a hell of a beast. Printing at 157°C nozzle temp now. Print looked good but then it broke off the build platform. Happened with all the prints afterwards... Had a plate of Tufnol from E3D for Nylon printing laying around. So I gave that one a try. Worked like a charm. XT sticks to it like hell, but is still easy to remove when it cools down. Added Tufnol to my evil tricks. Seems to work for PLA also, but have to keep the temperature high.

Done.

Thanks for all your answers helped a lot, have been on a short holiday trip, but getting back to 3D printing now. Didn´t do a calibration with my printer, but yes maybe I´m on the cold side. Tried the guessed settings and they worked good, but XT seems to be trickier to print with, than I thought. I did not want to go too high with temperatures because of the teflon part in the original UM1 hotend. Not sure which temperatures it can withstand for a longer time. I choose 250°C for the nozzle, 70°C for the bed and a higher layer thickness of 0.2 and an increased flow of 150% and it worked very well. With fan turned off, it smeared like hell, so I turned it on with 12%, the slowest I can for getting it turning constantly. (I have a large cross flow fan installed, works very well, but the fan settings are of course different. Most of the time significant lower than with the small original fan.) @anon: I took the UM2 settings because of the heated bed on my UM1, maybe I should have taken I mix up, the UM1 temps, but the UM2 heated bed temp, but we don´t know how exact and comparable our temperature readings are. Right now I am faceing two new problems. First is sticking to the heated glas plate, I tried glue stick. In some cases it worked in others it didn´t. Soso. Will try hairspray. New problem is, one of the parts is very small and thin, 5mm in diameter and conical at the top. So everything prints fine, but the top layers are a brown blob and delaminated... Like the material overheated. Any tricks on this? I wanted to print several at a time to give each the time to cool down, but couldn´t find the option in Cura. Where the hack is it? Or has Daid removed it with some of the last updates? Right now it´s printing on at a time and starts with the new part when the first is finished... Cheers, Philip

Moin, wenn das Filament angekommen ist, dann miss doch einmal nach ob es wirklich 3mm hat. Meistens sind es nur 2,85 oder 2,9 mm um genau das beschriebene Verstopfen zu beschreiben. Wenn das Zeug wirklich 3mm oder gar mehr hat, würde ich es unbenutzt umtauschen. Probleme sind damit vorprogrammiert. 1,75mm auf nem UM2 ohne Umbauten zu drucken halte ich für alles andere als optimal. Klar passt rein, aber deine Software rechnet mit 3mm, sprich mit entsprechend mehr Material, was pro Umdrehung rauskommt. Klar kannst du im Menü von Cura den Durchmesser anpassen, trotzdem ist der Feeder für 3mm ausgelegt, Bowden und Hotend ebenso. Das passt alles nicht richtig. Keine Ahnung was du dir damit sonst noch so alles an Problemen einhandelst. Würde bei dem Filament mit 2,85mm bleiben, für das deine Machine optimiert ist. Viele Grüße, Philip

Moin, hatte vor nem halben Jahr mit ner älteren Version von Cura ähnliche Probleme. Aber seit in der neuen Cura Version der Retraction Bug behoben ist, ist das Problem weg. Wenn trotzdem strining auftritt hilft es oft unter "Expert Settings" und dort dem ersten Menü Punkt "Retraction" "Minimum travel von 1.5 auf 0 zu setzen. Damit retractet er eher, aber auch viel häufiger. Damit kann sich das deutlich verbessern, aber die Druckzeit verlängert sich teils enorm. Durch zuviel retraction kannst du auch das Problem bekommen, dass sich der Antriebsbolzen ins Filament frisst. Ein leichtes Absenken der Drucktemperatur hilft oft auch etwas, aber pass auf, dass du keine Unterextrusion bekommst. Probiers mal mit 5°C weniger. Hoffe das hilft euch weiter. Viele Grüße, Philip

Hi guys, just started printing with Colorfabb XT and therefore digging out this old thread. Seems they changed the formular. I didn´t try but printing at 220°C would be difficult, I think... The recommended settings for an UM2 with heated bed and 0.1mm layer height are: Speed: 50-70 Nozzle Temp: 235-240°C HB Temp: 70°C I used these settings for my first print and it stuck to the surface very well also the first layer looked okay, the outside also, but the top layer is really ugly. It´s not solid, with gaps and woobly. For PLA I would have increased cooling, nozzle temp and flow to compensate. Did not work for XT. What are the settings you are useing? What´s different compared to PLA? And now much heat can an UM1 hotend withstand? Some pictures: Thanks for your help. Cheers, Philip

Yes, I can. It´s bit enough for printing a copy of both of us at the same time or putting us in a cube or whatever.... Build volume is 1x1x2 meters (X,Y,Z). X and Y might even be some cm bigger. Hope this machine will work but a lot to do until then...

Thanks a lot Jonny, that really helped a lot! Sorry for late reply. Sticked my nose a little deeper into ESD and realized that an old friend of mine knows sth. about it. I will take shielded cable for the data connection between the PCB and Control Panel and also for the steppers, to keep the intereferences at a minimum. Will give the longer shielded cable a try and we will see, if it works. @anon: Printer will get Octoprint, but I want the simple panel I am used to being accessible. I want to keep the cables short, but this means the PCB is in a place, where I cannot reach the Controller with the short cable. Problem is, this machine is a "little larger", large enough for me to sit in it while assembling. Will post more details when it´s finished.

Moin, coole Initiative! Gefällt mir. Hier im Norden sieht´s nicht so richtig gut aus, was Fablabs angeht. Hamburg: Fabulous St.Pauli: Zu klein, nicht so aktiv was 3D Drucker angeht, haben einen Prusa i2 und einen alten Stratasys, kein wirklich geeigneter Vortragsraum Attraktor: großer Vortragsraum vorhanden, keine Ahnung wie aktiv was 3D Druck angeht & Ulti-freundlich? Bremen: hat zumindest einen Ultimaker Original, Raum: keine Ahnung Lübeck: Fablab in Gründung, Raum vorhanden, gute Ausstattung, aber wohl zuweit ab vom Schuss... Denke es sollte irgendetwas halbwegs zentrales sein und eine größere Stadt, sowie ein Tag, an dem man das auch mit längerer Anreise erreichen kann. Sprich nen Freitag oder Samstag Abend... Dann kann man ggf. übernachten, was unter der Woche eher schwierig ist...

@Jonny: Absolut repeatability is only necessary for the Z-Axis. For X and Y it does not matter if my object is being printed one mm to the left or right, so switches are fine for these. But for Z they seem to work better than we would expect... It would be interesting to know how exact microswitces really are, but I don´t know if there is that much to win. What about "real" endstops, like they are being used for CNC machines etc. I think the housing will be bigger, but they should be precise, or not? @anon: You´ve got a working auto level system for the UM? Wow... Any other thread or pictures where you describe this build more in detail?

Moin Didi, Retract vor Richtungswechsel o.ä. gibt es meines Wissens nach nicht. Habe diese Option aber bisher auch nie vermisst. Hast du eigentlich einen Lüfter an deinem Hotend dran, der das abgelegte Material abkühlt um genau das zu verhindern, was du beschreibst? Falls ja, dessen Drehzahl erhöhen. Falls nicht, unbedingt nachrüsten, verbessert das Druckergebnis ungemein. Besser noch zwei Läfter so wie beim UM2. Viele Grüße, Philip

Did some vases with the spiralize feature. Worked fantastic, except for one all were watertight. The bottom is a little tricky. I Increased the nozzle temperature up to 220°C and set the flow to 220%. Not the ideal way to compensate but worked. These are none fixed values. You have to find the right ones for your material. First I would increase the temperature in steps of 5°C and then increase the flow in steps of 10% until it is solid. Should work. Good luck. Keep us up to date and which vase is it you are printing?

Thanks, Daid. Any chance to solve this? Shielded cable? Or doesn´t help?

Hi folks, working on a new 3D printer. For some reason I need to install the Ulticontroller far away from the Electronics. Using Rumba on this printer, but the panel almost looks like an Ulticontroller clone, almost identical only one button more, connectors are the same. I read a warning about max. cable length between Controller and PCB 30cm, but I need around 80 cm or 50 cm at least. Does anybody know why and how to bypass this problem? Is it because of the higher resistance of the cable or possible interference through other electric signals, so maybe two shielded cables would do the trick. Would be great if somebody could bring light into the darkness. Thanks, Philip