gothampixel

So ColorFabb announced Copperfill With this disclaimer; *Testing showed reliable results using the all metal hot-ends, such as the E3D and the Makerbot Replicator 2 hotend. Hotends which use a teflon isolator coupler can generate adhesion to the copper filament possibly leading to clogs and is there for not recommended for novice users yet. Any thoughts on the risk of printing this on an Ultimaker 2 and Original?

the broken and stuck filament thing happened to me just the other night. I broke off as much as I could, started a new print and fed more filament in from the spool as it was printing. the new feed pushes the old stuff through.

I have been working on a way to combine my ceramic work and 3D printing. This is the first in a series of bases I'm printing to support bowls that were trimmed without a foot.

I tried printing with Laybrick for the first time today. It is so brittle it snaps every time I try to load it. I can't even get it to the point where the extruder grabs it! I'm loading it from underneath trying to position it to feed with out bending but it's not possible it snaps every time. I tried warming it in the sun, heating it up with a hair dryer with out any luck.

Lennart, This is how I did it. I'm simplifying the numbers to give you a starting point. Cura will tell you how much filament is needed in meters when making a print. in my case the ring used .15 meters 1. Divide that number by 3 2. Measure and cut .05 bronzefill ** 3. Measure and cut .05 red filament 4. Start the load material sequence and slowly feed in the .05 bronzefill followed by the .05 of the red. 5. Finish by loading more bronzefill from the spool. Don't cut the 3rd part, keep it connected to the spool. Hit the button and let it load quickly. 6. Select the material settings (Custom for Bronzefill) 7. In the Maintenance menu use the Move Material option and advance the filament so that all of the pieces are pushing on each other. 8. Start the print. ** now this is the tricky part; The printer will purge a fair amount of filament before each print. you need to compensate for how much gets wasted. Make the first piece you cut and load much longer. It will take a few attempts to get it right. Christopher.

first thing anyone will say is re-level the bed. bed temp is not the problem, you should be fine at 50c. When you loaded the filament did you create a custom setting for the material with the correct setting for bronzefill? temp 220c bed 50c flow rate 106% other than that make sure it's not grinding in the extruder. ColorFabb's profile is very conservative, I have done many prints at .06 layer height.

Here are some of my bronzfill tests from the weekend. I'm finding I get a better polish when printing at 220c with a layer height of .08 or .06 or it could be that it just takes less time to polish at higher resolutions. Print speed at 50mm/s (no need to go super slow) It prints really well, I have not had any problems.

I haven't changed the tension spring on my U2 so I'm not even sure what it's set to. setting recommended from ColorFabb's Site: BronzeFill Adviced 3d printing temperature: 195-220C* Adviced 3d print speed: 40 - 100 mm/s Advised Heated bed (if you have one, not strictly necessary) 50-60C TIP! Depending on your set-up, 3d printer and slice software, you might see that bronzeFill needs a bit more flow compared to your normal PLA settings. Most plastics will show die swell when coming out of the nozzle tip, this is counteracted with specific slicer settings. Since bronzeFill doesn’t show a die swell such as PLA you might need to increase flow rate a bit, 4-8% was perfect for our UM2. UM original did not need any adjustments. TIP! Sanding and polishing your parts will make the bronze particles shine. Start sanding with grit 120-180 and make sure all the printed lines vanish. You’ll notice that because bronzeFill is easy to sand down, careful you won’t loose too much detail. Then start working your way up by following with grit 240-320 and finishing off with grit 600 - or higher. Finally we used a clean soft cloth and some copper polish to really get all of the shine out of the bronze particles.

I did a one hour print last night with out a problem. Machine Firmament Settings. temp: 210 Build plate temp: 55 Flow: 104% Layer height was 0.1

Got a roll of the bronzefill delivered today! The box was absolutely destroyed in shipping but the roll is still sealed. With this heavy filament they need to pack it better. Can't wait to try it out, I will report back.

The only measurements I did were from the windows. Starting with that I used a reference photo in the background and modeled everything from there. The building is sandwiched between two other buildings so the rest of it is just a big blocky rectangle. I plan on doing some others in the neighborhood which have more ornate fixtures. My building is rather plain but acted as a good beginners lesson for modeling in Blender.

Also consider how much the wait time is worth to you. 5 - 8 weeks if you order it direct vs. a few days if you order it from Maker Shed or iMakr.us And then if there is a problem you are dealing with the seller for warrantee and repairs.

As a modeling lesson for myself in Blender I recreated the facade of the building I live in. The Railing was printed separately, flat on the bed. Anyone else print their home?

On the west coast you might want to try Toy Builder Labs out of Pasadena, CA http://toybuilderlabs.com The guys from the 3D printing Today podcast give them really good reviews. Cool Podcast, not much Ultimaker talk but they do regard them very highly. https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/3d-printing-today/id821012321?mt=2

Jonathan, What material did you use for the iPhone case? the color and finish is really nice!

It's rigid like normal PLA. I ordered it from e3d-online but there is no brand name associated with it.

Playing around with the UV color changing material. Color changing aspect aside it's actually a really nice material. Easy to print and it has a good feel to it, like a hard wax.

It was hot and crowded, not much there yet in terms of inventory but I did get to check out a few ColorFabb Bronze Fill prints. Very Cool! Ultimaker was representing.. interesting to find out they have plans to open an assembly and distribution hub in US soon.

iMakr is opening their New York City location tonight. Any locals planing on going? They announced the location yesterday, it doesn't appear to be a very big space. I'll report back what I find. 152 Allen Street http://imakr.com/new_york

small additional request for Cura. It would be nice to have a "clear platform" button grouped with load and save buttons.

you don't need to wait for the spool holder, just put the spool on the floor behind the printer and let out a few coils. When you turn it back on choose Material > Change. It will heat up and then you will hear the printer run through the process of reversing out the filament it thinks is in there. When the sound stops press continue and then load the filament.

iMakr is opening a store front in NYC next week. I'll swing by and see if they plan to start shipping around the US. PrintedSolid has been great for me, fast shipping!

I'm about to try out the Taulman T-glase colors for the first time this weekend. Any recommendations on what settings to start with on a U2?

When you feed it in at the right angle you can feel it grab and start to pull. At the wrong angle it feels like it just stops.

PrintedSolid.com has as fast turnaround but i'm not sure if they are that fast. It is the weekend. Take a look at their ColorFabb Stock and email Matthew Gorton directly. I'll PM you his email address.