fergazz

I found those videos:

Sure, I don't know yet what kind of tool but I will keep posting here, need to be really thin to attach the internal diamenter and transfer heat. Those soldering iron are really cheap (5-10 bucks) and usefull for some applications in 3d printing area. These brass inserts are much easier to find in Bangood and Aliexpress, in the begging of the year I found just one or two reseller, nowadays there are much more. They are avaiable for M3, M4 and M5 screws. M3: https://www.banggood.com/pt/100Pcs-M3-x-6mm-Brass-Knurled-Nuts-Insert-Female-Thread-Round-Insert-Embedded-Nuts-p-1184384.html?rmmds=detail-left-hotproducts__6&ID=41528 In USA there is a brand that produce these brass inserts, named Yardley Products: https://www.yardleyproducts.com/ I hope it helps someone ?

Agree with @Smithy, avoid chinese parts and keep your printer reliable. Fbrc8 and gr5 also provide some awesome support every time I bought from them. I am using the 3dSolex block and mathless nozzles for about 10 months and I recommend. I got this one and it works pretty good: https://thegr5store.com/store/index.php/block-v3-and-matchless-nozzles/medium-kit-4.html

I would like to share this cool stuff that I was thinking to do for a long time, insert those metal brass into the 3d printed parts. This is my first attemp, I put it in Meduza's feeder upgrade since it's a bit difficult (for me) to attach the screw to the bolt inside the body. Since I don't have a soldering iron, the ideal tool to insert it, I use my heat gun and insert on it with the screw... i leaved a small gap to ajust later if needed but it was straight and fits perfectly ? Take a look @meduza , @gr5 and anyone interested. Cheers!

@Nicolinux just to give you a feedback. After a power-cycle and some oil the printer is running without issues, I printed 3 stuffs after that and everything is ok! It was weird! Thank you ?

Fillamentum (from Czech Republic) also have some awesome colors of PLA for artistic application ... a bit different but they have some kind of shimmer like the Vertigo Gray one and the new Vertigo Starlight (released at the end of August). I have the white one Fillametum and it have a very good diameter tolerance, varying just 0.02mm in this roll.

That's great @kmanstudios! I'm looking to try this filament, specially Merlot color and/or another one. Do you have any color recomendation of those ones that you got? Where did you buy it, Printed Solid? Did you see if someone else is selling it in U.S? and... What about the profile, it's a standart PLA profile or you need to tweek anything else like temp or retraction distance? Let's think that my standard PLA profile is Ultimaker PLA = Colorfabb PLA/PHA (I suppose that you have one of those) ? Sorry to ask to much.:

Hi @AevnsGrandpa, be welcome to 3d printing!! I supose that those thin lines (letters and map) are not wide enough to deal with a standart 0.4mm nozzle. Try to scale up the model and double check in Cura preview if you can see those thin parts sliced... website adress will be very difficult to do if you doesn't scale up to at least 150mm diagonal... maybe a bit more. If you still need help post a photo of preview and I or someone else can analyse for you. Cheers!

well, I lubrificated all axes and tomorow I will give it a test. If weird stuffs keep happening I will install an earlier version of tinkerGnome.:

That's awesome! Did you use Photoscan for those too? I got a demo version of Capture Reality photogrammetry software but It has a lot of parameters to follow.... low ISO, correct exposition, correct zoom range. If photos are not in those parameters the software cannot read them.

After the last pause I comand, in control panel of Simplify3D, to home all, but it collapse on the left corner and I hit Emergency Stop.

Hi all! After a strange noise during printing the Forbidden Watchtower by Kjai I paused, resume and paused again and quit this print. Looks like it also cause a layer shift: Video_UM2(+)Noise_14seconds / google drive What's going on here? By the way I'm using UM2(+) printer, Simplify3D v4 and thinkerMarlin 17.10.1 as firmware 1: Bearing problem? 2: Lack of lubrication on XY the axles? It's tought to move with printer shutted down. 3: Slicer problem? In preview looks fine. Firmware problem? 4: Belt? Everything seems in place. 5: None of the above ?

Hi @bastienb! you can send me messages here in forum or even e-mail me to: gazzola@3dsolid.com.br So, I saw that you are in France, right? I believe this link is from a distributor or manufecturer of those kind of ceramic-glasses: https://vitre-cpi.fr/vitre-plate-rectangulaire/7-verre-rectangulaire.html (this link above was shared in page 3 of Neoceram glass topic, not sure which brand is). I found mine seaching for "industrial glass association" in my country... and them I asked they about a ceramic glass reseller. For more details check the entire post about it, when this topic start, this link above was shared in page 3. Make sure to get 4mm thickness glass (UM2 is a bit smaller, around 3.85-3.90mm) so the clips will be tight. To be more confortable to hold and clean the glass make sure to ask the seller to smooth the edges (c-edge) and cut corners rounded with 5mm ratio. If you need more help let me know. Cheers!

Hi @Torgeir good to hear from you again! I believe that the material you are looking for (PLA with thermal properties) should be GreenTec from Extrudr (Austria) or PLATec from Biofila (German). They hold temperatures until 120 degrees, 110°C for sure, but I don't have an in deep information to make sure it's food safe cause I don't know what kind of blend do they use. PLATec also have a good touch finishing, I got the natural one. GreenTec I never used but people from community are saying that it's the same material and properties. Biofila's website is in reformulation process and it's out of service as far as I know, but you can contact the manufacturer directly in this email: sales@two-bears.eu Let me know if those materials attends to their needs... we can try to find another one. I also tested Photo-pasta HT and it prints like any other good quality PLA. I read the full article that you provided talking about PLA in medical field, good stuff! I fowarded to a medical reseach institute that I'm working for and supporting. Thank you!

Sem dúvida o Bondtech é o melhor feeder, tava de olho nele, cheguei a encomendar com o fabricante mas eles pararam de enviar pro BR pois tiveram problemas com outras entregas. O Meduza me deu um pouco de trabalho pra instalar mas foi bem mais barato, e agora tá rodando bem, mas tive que encomendar da China (por e-packet) o Knurled sleeve pois o antigo ficou emperrado na minha haste do stepper motor e tive que serrar com a Dremel. Tem uma porca que fica dentro do modelo que é chato tb de colocar no lugar mas após superar essas “dificuldades” ele tá funcionando muito bem... aumentou o torque em aprox. 1.5x o que é muito bom ao utilizar nozzles de 0.6 / 0.8 pra cima. Nesse aspecto ele é melhor que o feeder original da UM2+. Comprei tudo na loja do gr5... só o TFM coupler que peguei na Fabric8 pois ele tava sem no estoque. Nem me fale, o dolar disparou, tá complicado. Espero que o resultado das eleições sejam favoráveis... vamos ficar na torcida. Qualquer dúvida pergunte! Abraço

E esse é o heated block da 3dSolex, um pouco antes de instalar os novos cabos: do heater e do sensor de temperatura

olá @pro-2, Já trocou o PTFE coupler alguma vez? Eu que nunca fui de usar ABS mas usei muito o XT e o Ngen da Colorfabb e meu PTFE tava bem magoado, queimado na parte interna. Vou postar a foto aqui mais tarde. Impressionante como fez diferença, essa parte queimada dava muito atrito durante as retrações, acumulava plástico e resultava em underextrusion com muita frequência, até em peças com poucas retrações e com baixo volume de material (velocidade baixa). Caso queira trocar o heated block sugiro o da 3dSolex, tô achando muito bom. Comprei, também o heater de 40W, o sensor de temperatura e um jogo de nozzles da Mathless. Mudei o feeder pro Meduza's e agora tenho mais torque na máquina (com o bico maior acaba sentindo necessidade de aumentar o torque pra jogar mais volume), acabei instalando o firmware editável tinkerMarlin pra poder lidar com ele. Só o heater que deveria ter pego o de 35W que é mais fácil configurar, mas com as orientações do Gr5 consegui fazer.

I'm using ceramic glass from Schott (German brand) for a year, the comercial name for those are Robax or Nextrema, and it's absolute flat. I never had so perfect first layers since I start to use it... filament is always squizing the same amond on the entire bed and I did some wide prints and multiple object prints that cover the entire bed. I love it, seriously. Schott Brazil shared some information with me, they also sell borosilicate and temperad glasses: Comparision of coefficient of expansion: Tempered: 6.0x10^-6 Borosilicate: 3,3x10^-6 Neoceram: 0.6x10^-6 (close to zero) Thermal shock: Tempered: 270°C Borosilicate: 360°C Neoceram: 760°C Mine is model 724-3. I note that it is a little heavier than the original... it also retains more heat than the tempered one, it's good for adhesion and I can put it on freezer for less than 2min for PLA and 3 min for TPU and Ngen... it withstands thermal shock up to 760 °C so I believe it's safe to do it... still working flawless. Now I only use the old glass with buildtek just when I need to deal with Nylon. As Neotko (the guy that found it) said, stable Z is important. They can also find more info in a topic called: A better glass bed / ceramic glass (something like that).

Hi @bob-hepple. It seems that I had the same issue, I was trying with 0.05mm on my top layers. Cura changes a lot during these times, I still using S3D v4 but I wanna try some stable and recent version to test neosanding (ironing) and adaptive layer high, looks like an awesome feature. Keep us updated with your tests... Thank you @inventabuild for this explanation.

Yep, take a look: http://shop.bondtech.se/en/extruders/ddg-extruder-for-ultimaker-3.html @gr5 also have in stock right now: https://thegr5store.com/store/index.php/um3upg/bondtech-ddg-extruder-feeder-for-ultimaker-3-2-85-3mm-filament-107.html

Are you from USA, right? I believe, following some reviews, that Capricorn bowden tube helps to deal with flexible materials. Looks like that XS model has some lubrificant in their composition that reduce friction: https://www.captubes.com/index.html#products If you need to print a lot with it, you should take a look to BondTech extruders, they have gears that holds the filament from both sides, providing more torch... it's also more precise during retractions.

Roberto-Resende said: boa tarde, eu preciso comprar todo o print core, ou só o bico ? https://ultimaker.com/en/products/spare-parts -----x------ Se não me engano o Core Original da UM3 não troca o bico. Digo isso pois eles vendem o Core inteiro de 0.25, 0.4 e 0.8, tanto AA quanto BB, esses nozzles (bicos) do link são pra UM2+. Os Cores da 3dSolex trocam com certeza pois no anúncio do outro link que te passei diz isso. Nunca usei esse pra UM3, sugiro fazer uma busca aqui no fórum caso queira mais informações. Tenho o heated block da 3dSolex, o equivalente do Olsson block, modifiquei minha UM2 (que também não troca o nozzle) pra UM2+ depois de 3 anos de uso. Peguei os nozzles Race (0.6mm, 0.8mm e 0.4mm) e o para abrasivos 0.5SS ICE. Os produtos que tenho deles são de ótima qualidade, os nozzles modelo Race tem uma bifurcação interna que permite imprimir um pouco mais rápido que o usual (10-15% talvez) e com temperatura um pouco mais baixa.

Esse degrau é causado pela resolução. Se você diminuir a altura da camada esse degrau ficará menos evidente. Normalmente buracos e protuberâncias, redondas e pequenas como essa, tem uma imprecisão de 0,1mm com o PLA, que é o material mais preciso. Se a lateral desse "botão" fosse reta, reduziria esse efeito em V, ficaria uma escadinha mais uniforme, perpenticular. Edit: Como corrigir. Ou vc muda o design para atender essa variação (necessário testes para calibragem) ou você faz maior e lixa até atingir o ponto ideal de encaixe. Vale lembrar que nas metragens totais, de ponta a ponta, a precisão é maior, só em buracos, partes redondas e pontes isso muda. Usando suporte, como mostrado na figura, a precisão pode ficar num patamar melhor também. As Ultimakers super bem calibradas chegam a ter variação no eixo XY de 0,05mm.