tinkergnome

Nimm am besten gleich einen von dieser Variante, dann kannst Du direkt eine Schraube mit 16mm Länge verwenden: "Feeder V6 Yoke And Hub With M16 Spacer" (M3 in 14mm gibt es nicht "von der Stange" und so viele Unterlegscheiben sehen doof aus... ) _Die_ "richtige" Länge vom Yoke gibt es nicht so direkt - das hängt davon ab, wie "stark" und wie lang die Feder bei deinem Drucker ist (die haben offenbar eine gewisse "Serienstreuung"). Du könntest z.B. mit 38mm anfangen, und später andere Längen "nachdrucken", wenn Dir der Federdruck zu schwach oder zu stark vorkommt (oder Du druckst eben gleich die ganze Serie...). Wenn ich mich richtig erinnere, sollte die Feder beim Zusammenbauen mit einer 30mm langen M3 Schraube auf ca. 13 mm Länge vorgespannt werden. Der Arm sollte sich dann schließen lassen ohne sich die Finger zu brechen, darf aber auch nicht zu "lasch" eingestellt sein. Das ist leider zum Teil so eine "Gefühlssache..." - lohnt sich aber Viel Spaß!

Hi JayEye, glad to meet a companion in misfortune... Can you clarify your intention a bit? Are you planning to make these modifications solely for your private use, or are you open-minded for a suggestion i made a couple of weeks ago: The challenge is still: to keep in sync with the master branch of Ultimaker. Before you start - try to get the simulator up and running. It's essential for testing and debugging (IMHO). I found these sources: Marlin Simulation... on your desktop?!? (For developers) Missing note about how to compile and run the simulator To disable the steppers enqueing a simple "M84" command is sufficient. There is also a "Move axis" menu in the recent Tinker version of the firmware - branch: geek_mode. (i'm not sure, if you noticed this already) Print at a specific location on the platform: I do not want to wait for the build plate to cool down enough so I can remove what I just printed in order to start a new print. For small parts, there is plenty of room on the build plate. I realize I can bring everything in cura again and reslice, but I may want different models sliced with different parameters, or that take too long to slice, or I may not even have the .stl any more (and working with gcode models in cura is annoying). The axis positions are "hard-coded" in the gcode file. You have to introduce some kind of shift value. I mediate on something similar for the z-axis. The intention is a new function to recover a (aborted) print. But perhaps there are better approaches...? Better control over heat-up/heat-down and filament movement. I want a "heat nozzle and keep at that temperature until I tell you otherwise, regardless of what other operations are happening", so I can control the nozzle and the filament movement during load/unload independently of each other (why? because I want to!) I'm not sure if i got the point... I made a small improvement (hopefully ) for the "Move material" menu recently. Perhaps you can use it as a starting point: More information on front panel: I have already found this, so if anything it will be just minor tweaks. There's an open discussion on the other thread. We're curious.. Another source: nerd fork (there's no activity anymore, but it's a good starting point anyway...)

Just another suggestion...: You can try to "tweak" the value of shell thickness a bit. For example: set shell thickness to 0.79 in Cura and take a look at the layer view (a suitable value depends on the geometry). For me - this is sometimes the easier solution. Just to clarify: the SwapAtZ plugin is also a great improvement!

made a https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin/pull/66

Did you noticed this thread? 3.0 CFM / approx. 5 m^3/h (there is also no source for this information - but perhaps you can ask twistx) Consider using this one as a replacement: Sunon MC25100V2-A99 (16dBA) It is 10mm height - but there is enough room - you would need longer screws - but the spec looks suitable...

Nothing fundamental.... only a penny: The "firmware priming" (and heatup - using UltiGcode) uses the target temperatures of the current material preset. IMHO this is the major (respectively the only...) benefit of UltiGcode - one can print the same gcode file with different materials. This is very convenient (in my opinion) - i frequently switch between PLA and XT for example. With those start code generated into the gcode - you would have to reslice for every material (or at least: edit the temperature settings in the file)...

Yep. It is... After selecting the file from sd-card the buildplate is raised up to the priming height (20mm) before it even starts reading the gcode. This behavior is not related to the GCode-flavor - although priming takes place only for UltiGCode. The fact that this will not happen directly after turning on - is more or less "by accident"... The firmware has just no clue about the current position of the z-axis before the first "homing"... and runs into the "soft-endstop control". Conclusion: i think this has to be fixed in the firmware.

Perhaps i missed this... but... have you beared in mind that not every fan is pwm-controllable..? (i can not find this information on the product page...?)

This should definitely not happen and is an explanation for the extrusion problems... You can try to cut off a few millimeters of the bowden tube (with a sharp knife) - so that the bite marks 'move' to another position. The bowden tube has to be firmly attached before you go on with further investigations... (IMHO)

Mit ein bisschen Software-"Tweaking" (z.B. ein Cura-Plugin) wäre so etwas wahrscheinlich auch mit nur einem Extruder möglich - aber das wäre mindestens ein Materialwechsel für jeden Layer, in dem die "Verkabelung" enthalten ist. Ich kann mir nicht so recht vorstellen, dass das Spass machen würde... Mein persönliches Fazit: Ein Ultimaker 2 ist für so einen Anwendungsfall leider nicht geeignet. Für einen Dual-Extruder Drucker wäre das aber bestimmt ein interessantes Forschungsprojekt...

Unfortunately such an e-mail would only reach customers who have bought directly from Ultimaker. There are plenty of resellers out there selling Ultimakers. I'm pretty sure that the Ultimaker store itself has never heard of me or my e-mail address... For sure - one could inform the resellers and requesting a forwarding of informations - but that would be a request...not more... Instead - customers (at least that one who care about...) _will_ ask support for the second extruder kit. Offering a modified fan shroud (as apology) in these cases is a reasonable idea (i think...) ...just my 2 cents...

I've just uploaded the "Tinker"-Version of the 15.01 Release. You can download it from GitHub if you want to take a look. This is the first attempt of the two-page printing screen (suggested by rigs). Have a good time!

No no, this was the wrong answer - respectively the wrong thread.... Just ignore me...

This Dim3nsioneer should be sufficient..

Well..., not exactly this way... The originally idea was to add some sort of "shift" value to the printing coordinates to make the recovering easier. But this would still need a reslicing... The suggestion of Chris would be much more convenient, wouldn't it? Let's decorate the dream a bit... One could use the (still experimental) move axis menu to determine the correct z-coordinate and then just say "print the next file from here"... ...and the firmware would start a normal print but just ignores all moves until the specified z-height is reached... ...then initializes the stepper positions to the correct values... ...and starts printing the remaining part of the file... -_- I guess that all these "dangerous" options will probably never find there way into the standard firmware - it's simply too far from "foolproof", but we are allowed to tinker with the idea of doing it ourselves... :roll: It's a challenge - but maybe worth the efforts.... .... at least much more convenient than manual editing of gcode.... (i think i said this already.... ) What did i miss?

3Dnerd: 120,00 EUR überwiesen (2 Platten), eMail an Fa. my3Dtec.de gesendet Botter: 60,00 EUR per PayPal geschickt (1 Platte), eMail an Fa. my3Dtec.de gesendet JotWe: 60,00 EUR per PayPal geschickt (1 Platte), eMail an Fa. my3Dtec.de gesendet TinkerGnome: 120,- EUR überwiesen (2x orange) und eMail gesendet

Really? I swear - this was a simple misunderstanding... :huh: (damn - i hate these annoying merging sessions every evening...)

I think, this is the main issue - it should not be necessary to complete all the buffered commands - because we want to abort anyway... David has commented this long ago: Perhaps the firmware runs into problems because the printer is not longer aware of its current position after a "quickstop" (which clears the buffer). Someone ( :rolleyes:) should investigate this a bit further.... Another quote :cool: :

ich gehe mit und erhöhe auch auf 2... 1x Martin Hillenbrand, Orange 1x Erri, farbe egal 1x Chris123, Farbe egal 2x TinkerGnome, Orange oder Natur 2x Peter Figge, rot 1xBotter Natur 2xDer_s, Farbe egal 1xreibuehl Natur 1x Gazelle, blau, natur oder egal

First choice should be the Assembly manual. The interesting part begins on page 55/56: turn the hot-end isolater until the teflon isolator part creates a gap of at least 1 mm and the bottom of the hot-end isolater is just not touching the messing part

The visible changes are small this weekend. Instead i refactored a lot behind the scenes (although it was working well - dynamic memory allocation is not the best choice for such a project). The "Move axis" menu has the new home icon from rigs - and it has a new home at all. I moved it down into the "Expert settings" - i think it is better to group such things together (at the moment). The binary files on GitHub are refreshed (although there's no need for an immediate update). Alongside i try to prepare one ore more pull requests for the master branch. Let's just go step by step through the todo list... I think the "Shift axis position during print" is the next task. See you!

Ok ok, i agree - "tune" would be obsolete. Yeah... - that's already clear - there's no innovation without a bit of pressure.... (i will need some holidays soon... ) Is this a translation issue...? (or do i confuse "ennuyeuse" with "insistante"...?) :lol:

I see - you're probably never running out of ideas.... I would like to replace the "ABORT" function with "PAUSE" - and integrate the abort function in the pause menu. I often use at first the pause function and decide later, if i want to abort... what do you mean...? And there is no need to hide the "TUNE" button, there is still room for a third button in the bottom line. So would the tune menu be still accessible for evereone who likes it...? So, you suggest a second level of "instant tuning" options... Why not...? .... if you don't expect it for tomorrow... :roll: There are gcodes for acceleration and jerk already - so it should also possible to change it manually during print. I should better avoid to bring in new ideas.... but here are some examples...: * M200 - Set filament diameter * M201 - Set max acceleration in units/s^2 for print moves (M201 X1000 Y1000) * M202 - Set max acceleration in units/s^2 for travel moves (M202 X1000 Y1000) Unused in Marlin!! * M203 - Set maximum feedrate that your machine can sustain (M203 X200 Y200 Z300 E10000) in mm/sec * M204 - Set default acceleration: S normal moves T filament only moves (M204 S3000 T7000) im mm/sec^2 also sets minimum segment time in ms (B20000) to prevent buffer underruns and M20 minimum feedrate * M205 - advanced settings: minimum travel speed S=while printing T=travel only, B=minimum segment time X= maximum xy jerk, Z=maximum Z jerk, E=maximum E jerk * M206 - set additional homeing offset ... * M928 - Start SD logging (M928 filename.g) - ended by M29 * M999 - Restart after being stopped by error You will design some nice arrows, right...? We should stay at 7 pixels in height and as wide as necessary for a smart look...? Stay tuned...

Short answer: yes

Mal sehen... es ist nicht angegeben, womit genau die Platte beschichtet ist (gut, das könnte man evtl. nachfragen) die 2mm mehr machen eine Menge aus - zu dünnes Alu verzieht sich leicht - und auch hier: keine Angaben (oder gar Garantien), wie eben die Platte ist die Gewindelöcher haben ja den Sinn, auf Klammern oder ähnliches verzichten zu können (aber Du kannst sie natürlich auch selbst anbringen) Ob es seinen Preis wert ist, muss eh jeder selbst entscheiden... (nur meine 2ct.)