cloakfiend

Bad luck, lol. You can say that again. My sensor and block were so far in the sensor only had cable sticking out so naturally thats all i had to pull, and who knows why the easy to remove heater was stuck. We'll see either way. I've just bought the heater. hopefully it will arrive lol. ive got it working, but if the fans go above 15% then the heater is not powerful enough. its to do with the shroud and positinīng or it with the ollson block. but i cant stand it, the noise the fans make at 15% is very irritating. i should have just left it alone the copper is cooling it too much. i hope they hurry up and release the new shroud already.....

do i need a different power supply? i feel im going to now have to unnecessarily spend money on something that appeared very easy in videos, and really should have been easy.

what do i need to get to replace the thicker sensor/heater? there seem to be a variety in the store. its laberns shroud btw, just in copper. you can see it in the prints section. when i left it on move material, it reset after a few minutes and went back to the menu?

It just died mid print. RIP um2. dont know whats wrong now, im assuming the heater at it was slightly split when i took it out. the temp sensor was brand new but who knows im too depressed to care right now after spending hours on it and will just leave it in the corner i think. its the fatter one in the pic that split near the end the one that was meant to come out easy. after 1 min it says something like temp error contact ultimaker or something.

yes i undid the tension screw thing on the block. now i think ive done it, but temps seem to bounce a bit unlike before, only about 1 or 2 degrees though so hopefully should not matter too much, but i split the heat thing when i took it out and im concerned it might die now, we'll see....im testing a print i did now yesterday to see if its worse quality.....fingers crossed.

if i manage to repair my um2 ill do you a video, as i will need to recalibrate now anyway.......

which screw? the mesh has separated from the visible rubber and now its so deep in the hole i cant even get at it to pull it, and if i do manage then everytime i pull on the mesh, it tears....how can i get to that hole without removing the sides? i also have a feeling i broke both sensors taking/trying to take them out. but the bigger one appeared to work (even though iits visibly cracked and i can see inside it) so ill try to see if it works, and the temp one gave me the error simply by squeezing it with some tweezers before i shredded it..

ive totaly wrecked my um2 intalling this thing all of the wires in the casing are too far in and now i cant even get the replacement heat sensor in. looks like like im going to have to take the sides off now! te damn hole where all the wires feed is just too small and the housing is getting wrecked the more i try to feed it thrugh! very unhappy at the moment......no more printing from me for a long while....

I just attempted to install the ob..... lol, no chance!! and i really tried for hours gently trying to prize it out, heated it up, lubed it, everything, but no. ive given up because the metal casing is breaking which means i will need to purchase stuff simply because i want to upgrade. none of the sensors come out period even half a millimeter and seem glued in. i may just be unlucky but i cant even see any casing of the heat sensor at all so that will get stripped if pull it. maybe i just dont have the technique but i seriously would not recommend doin this yourself unless you have spare parts!!! and im VERY careful with stuff the sensors casing just buckles under any sort of strain. ok i broke it now, figured i had a spare one in the box so whatever.

Lol, its all good now, i got my method, and like you, do it so rarely that it doesnt really matter. I have my fav setting in cura too, and dont really want to start changing now . I like the paper method and feeling the nozzle scraping gently against it.

They provide a card? well better late than never! Lol can i get one? They should bring a bunch with them to 3d print fairs for us old lot. I used two um2s none came with any cards. I assume its the + models then. I personally hate that robot model, i know its there to demonstrate overhangs and such, but it always looks poor to me, where all my stuff looks fine. Its was a bit of a let down printing that robot after spending so much money. They should provide something really cool to print. But at least with the robot you know things just aren't gonna always look awesome and it does make you think why it looks crap at certain points to learn to model better. The fact of the matter is that i doubt people analyze things as obsessively as i do and question them. Until the resin printers at least half in price, i wont invest as im just having fun now, and there is no cheaper better alternative than the um2 or um2+. Im gonna try install my newly printed fan shroud and see if it improves my overhangs a touch, but im very happy as it is. Filament is dirt cheap compared to all the stuff you need for the form style printers. I just dont have money to burn on those printers.

I was thinking about making a video as i am very happy with how i do it, but it would need accompanying reasoning as to why you would be doing everything, otherwise people will just be copying what you are doing and then would just complain if it didnt work. That is the main issue with 3d printing, you need a feel for it. Its like dancing, if you cant feel the rhythm you cant dance, no matter how hard you try. You also need a light touch, and common sense and a little bit of a deeper understanding of how things work and why certain things need to be done. I believe the thickness of paper you use is very important as lets face it, if all you are using to judge the distance to the bed. Fine tuning is a whole new ballgame, especially on the fly, lol. For that you need a calm mind and patience, and be willing to fail many times before you understand how to get it perfectly level, but basically its just turning three screws a bit. Ultimaker should really provide an ideal piece of some variety of material to calibrate with. Card, paper, plastic, metal, or at least state a certain gsm. instead they leave it down to people who have no clue as beginners as all of us did back in the day, but on the other hand we all found our own fav bits of paper. I think a bank statement is perfect personally(but again it depends on the bank, but this could also change one day). But regular thin A4 paper is also good.

i rarely recalibrate. It tends to hold once you do it right. But some people do it after every print?. What do the official people of ultimaker recommend i wonder? only recalibrate when you need to i assume, otherwise whats the point?

here's my new acetoned and copperplated shroud designed by mr labern to cover me till the new one comes out, been meaning to print this for a while, but didn't want to leave it in plastic due to warping over time, this copper plate is like a reinforcement. no idea if it will, work, but we'll soon see.....

i think it was the guys at fablab who said it about the 3 vs 4 screws and seeing as they have many printers and constantly run multiple jobs, i believe them. i also find the three legged stool analogy very good.

I personally have no real issues with the default settings. the only thing i change during print is the nozzle temp after the first layer. rest is default, i honestly think the um team set up the default settings very well. i think a lot of people play with settings when they simply don't need to.

Ahh yes, upsidown. I just make sure i run like like 5cm of filament through before if ive changed it. Then i never get the gaps if it clicks. As for levelling the bed seeing as i would do it with regular paper like a phone bill or something, then it would be cold. Im assuming that the height of the paper is slightly too high so when i apply the glue it raises the level to the perfect height. I also make sure my nozzle is clean (like shiny perfect) when i do it. However my last um2 i used did not have that stupid white ring round it. It just gets in the way when cleaning the nozzle. And apparently 3 screws to level are easier than one. I dont have any experience with 4 screws in the bed, i wish i did, lol.

i print quite a lot lately in 0.04 and have no problems. who cares what the first layer looks like, its 0.04mm? software process? curious, but surely if you often need to relevel or adjust it means you are doing something that is ruining the alignment. it would surely be easier to find out what is causing the problem rather than constantly working around it?

plated.

what's changing filament got to do with the bed? you don't need to do it, but if it makes you feel better. its a complete waste of time imho. ive used around 10 different filaments over the past two months and done tons of printing and haven't levelled (even on the fly) the bed since the printer arrived. i honestly have no idea why people think you need to relevel? as long as you dont put too much pressure on the bed when (if) you are removing it to get the print off, there really is no point doing it. believe me im not the only one, that goes for abs or pla. if you have issues then you havent done it right from the start.

Here is my anime face i drew from a comic, bottom teeth were near the end so were slightly melted (from the nozzle, not the acetone)... maybe should have left it in a bit longer too. now plating....

I hear you @LePaul ive spoken on many threads about leveling and how some people seem to think you need to level it after each print (and made a viseo about this somewhere on this forum which also covered applying the glue), and also leveling on the fly (which is very easy btw), which was just common sense to me as leveling with paper simply does not show you where the filament is going, its only telling you when its hittng paper. and with regards to temps of the heated bed, the default is fine. i dial it down to 55 for 0.04 layer height, but 60a almost guarantees good layer adhesion. Finally print as cool as you can get away with, you dont really need to worry about anything else. (assuming you know the sweet spot for your filament.) hope that helps. p.s. the main reason for re-levelling on the fly is because i level without glue when i use paper so after applying the glue, i know i will need fine adjustments to compensate for the glue layer. I haven't had to level for about 2 months now after doing this method once properly, and I can print on any section of the plate. the UM2 is good in that aspect. I would kill myself if I had to keep levelling after each print.

? off topic maybe, lol?

Better stringing than under extrusion. just sand it off. Some people dont even use retraction and sand it off as its quicker printing i think because it doesnt have to pause at all, extending the life of some parts. I never expect my parts to come out without needing a little tlc. I kind of enjoy perfecting them. if stringing was my only problem, id be laughing. Use some model shears to trim them off and then just sand them down. Unless you have seek models that require zero touching up, this is not really a problem. But looking at many videos, ive never seen a decent model that required no post work.