cloakfiend

With regards to atomic pulls, if you dont use speciality filaments, like bronze fill or ninjaflex, and just stick with normal filaments, and dont get any nozzle jams (burnt filament in nozzle), i personally dont think you dont really need to do atomic pulls (as a beginner you should though, until you get a feel for your machine). Just run some of the new filament through till its clear and your good. Im currently experimenting with many different filaments, and i have done no atomic pulls what so ever. I dont get any underextrusion.

I have printed the same thing a few times, and found that a 10c difference didnt make much difference for me, 20 didnt either.

yeah that was me, lol.

ok, heres what it looks like after you put caustic soda on acetoned pla. interesting from man art point of view, but basically the model is ruined, lol. Its copper coated so you can see it better.

does it have to be those exact numbers? there seem to be quite a few different ones?

if you find the right glue/hairspray, then taking things off the plate is not a problem, there are many methods including air duster cans held upside down. even if i cover the entire base i can always take it off without a problem. just wait for it to cool, or super cool it. put it in the fridge. dont waste your time using abs juice on pla that is madness and overkill.

logos and flat stuff is far better flat, whilst costume making and vase making benefits from taller printer.

fair enough i cant seem to print laberns shroud for some mysterious reason....??? can you provide an ebay uk link, that one appears to be netherlands or france only? i need to figure whats up with my cura now...... .....ok, the damn advanced settings.

ok my new filaments arrived today, and so far transparent red is the winner. its almost as good as the UM and not splitting either. i tried to clean off the white residue with caustic soda but ended up cracking the model so dont use that stuff. here is the model just after the acetone.

yep they sure do seem expensive, ill just stick with mine, its the motors that are noisy for me the fans dont really bother me. im printing laberns shroud now and then im gonna coat it, and thats me done with upgrades.

i print in pla so warping is a non issue. just for abs people.

you could try acetone with the PLA, but the results are not that predictable on flat surfaces, i did something similar to your human touch thing a while back by mistake when i soaked something in acetone too long. looked like a used tissue, lol.

I think you made the right choice for props. for high res stuff, i just don't see the point, it would take weeks!. personally, id prefer a wider printer than a taller printer.

dont worry im not holding my breath, ill make do without, have done for over a year now. just curious why it was not released at the same time, but i know...package design, pricing....bureaucracy, spoiling things as usual. i may try to make one up myself from available pictures (dont worry i wont post it if i do), but seeing as i haven't even installed the ob, i cant see myself doing that any time soon, so i may as well just wait....or just print laberns one and coat it to stop it warping.

ahh, i love mikado! and the chocolates too! i'm not 100% sure what you mean, but Id get a laser cutter if i was working on only flat stuff. There is no point spending hours doing what can be done in seconds. the overhangs wont let you print your kind of setup in one go using fdm. and as for designing in 3d you can effortlessly create what you are doing wth dynamic simulations or active realtime dynamic simulations if you want total control. There are always multiple methods of creating what you need, it usually comes down to what is most achievable vs most affordable.

here it is sprayed...

6 months omg does that mean we need to wait 6 months for any upgrade kit??? and regards to piracy? surely a pirate would just get a um2+ now and then just clone it like they already did in china? after all its already in the wild? it cant be too complicated given enough photos with scale references i could probably knock one up in a few hours.... if any one would be so kind . In the fashion world and many other fields people clone from photos/camcorders etc. to be the first. quality control is never really a consideration, the pirates don't genuinely care as long as it sells. making genuine users wait for an upgrade to improve their experience that is already released seems odd to me.

I tried a few nail polish removers, with no luck, only the pure acetone ones did the job for me. Ahh yes ethyl acetate, yeah im familiar with that, i prefer straght acetone for detail. Use ethyl for low res stuff.

Months? :/ why so long?

What do you mean it smooths PLA like acetone. Im using acetone? If you mean ABS then no thanks, i want sharp details. If it melts too much like acetone and abs then you lose way more detail than Pla and acetone. Thats my sole reason for doing it. No piece of abs from a cloud chamber will ever hold as much detail as a piece of acetoned pla. Period. It might make it shiny, but way less detailed at the same time. However i will try it out as im always open to new suggestions. anyone in the uk know where to get some? Boots?

@danilius here is my latest print and ac. Less creepy very happy with the result, its near perfect, ill spray it silver in the morning. This is just acetone and nothing else. I think i will cry when i run out of this UM filament it never splits. I bought 3 or 4 new different ones to experiment with, but have a feeling they wont match this one....could be wrong though.

Nothing but acetone for me now (no surprises there, lol). I dont even bother sanding anymore. Zero effort, but near perfect results. I would tend to sand flat stuff though with 400 grit sand paper.

lol, no of course not the nozzle, its melted! i meant when it just prints crazy in the air due to a bad model and a spool jam at once!! after 12hrs you just get a clump of clown hair as i call it with thousand of bits of plastic around it all over the bottom, in the main screw as well, lol. i only print my models now so that ever happened again.

Thanks, yes that white ring around the nozzle. I cant believe so many people had such a problem , ive never had anything so bad that it caused issues. Ive had a few string prints as i call them, but they just caused a massive mess a vacuum would sort out in a few seconds.

Yes i already read that, i dont expect everything seperate, but including the ob would be very annoying since by now almost everyone has one, and it would add around 79euros. I have one and dont even use it so if it was in the upgrade kit, id have two just sitting in a box, as all the currently remaining um2s come with tem and have so for over 2 months. Eitherway, we'll see.