cloakfiend

Just out of curiosity, due to the um2+ having the ob, i'll assume it doesn't have that weird white thing my um2 came with, and now just flaps about annoyingly, what is its purpose???? its annoying me now, as i cant see the state of the entire nozzle, and blocks my view in general. is it safe to remove completely?

Yeah, its definitely more fun making things naturally!

I agree, actions speak louder than words... or in this case, prints speak better than specs! i personally dont like those printers where the base moves around, but prefer the static base that only moves up and down, rather than left and right, also. it might make no difference, but it just seems as though more can go wrong with larger parts moving about, than with just the head on an fixed axis.

Lol, i was not comparing it to the umo, but the £739 printer in his link! i had a feeling i should have stipulated that! it said 10 micron xy axis. not sure what the um2 is, but i imagine the same or better. could be wrong though! edit, so i just checked and the um2+ has 12.5on the xy, so its worse. lol. by 2.5 microns! but um2 z is better. apples and oranges.

the um2 goes a bit more higher rez on the layer height which is important to me as i orientate things to the z(its where the quality is at!), not sure about the x,y on the um2. but i bought one purely down to reliability. when i was in a fablab, i looked at some of the other many machines at work and many of them had simply failed and ended prematurely. i used one last year 24hrs a day for a year and it never failed on me other than a few occasions when i was learning. now i bought one (UM2)for myself i dont even do atomic pulls anymore. i have no need to. i know how it works. my problems will only start when i need to take it apart for maintenance in the next few years. getting a good printer will start you off on a good foot and learning how they work and how to remedy many issues, as with a bad one you just wont have a clue whats going wrong if it does, as it may just be down to it being a lame printer. p.s. ic youre new to this game, there is a lot to learn, both about the printer and modelling and then importing your model to print. For this reason many people dont achieve optimal results, and complain. i would do a lot of reading up on this forum before buying any 3d printer period. i did and it saved me a lot of time later down the line as i already knew what to expect in certain situations.

i dont care about anything but the fan shroud. I just hope they bring it out before announcing the new printer as otherwise it wont be as good knowing that a new printer already prints better using a completely different system. Mind you this is purely from a psycological point of view, seeing as the parts are already in production, i cant imagine what the hold up is. im mostly happy with my um2 out of the box so unless its a reasonable price, i may not even get it. if i get the dimensions then i suppose i could simply print my own and copperplate or nikel plate it i guess, that would prevent it from warping over time.

thanks for the info, ill give it a shot when im due a refresh.

If they are going to release a new machine it had better have a base plate supported on both sides rather than just on one which inevitably vibrates a lot when performing filling operations. I suppose they could just move it to the sides instead of being at the back. Also a normal handle on the glass plate release, or a simple silicone one. maybe an enclosure as well for a more controlled temperature. i guess we'll know pretty soon, I wonder how much it will cost though, I have a feeling it will be a lot more expensive, but if its comparable in quality to what commercial printers achieve then I guess it will be more acceptable.

Yep funnily enough He-man it was for me as well maybe with some action man thrown in for good measure, i do believe there was a mass clearout after it fell out of fashion me and my mates bought loads for next to nothing and had a lot of air rifle parties!!! I could print my own now but it would be a waste to destroy them straight after. ... but back on topic, im finally finished with this aliens 2 ship. skipped out on a few guns but as a test...whatever.

I got one to scare the squirrels and pigeon out of my garden, lol. I highly recommend getting a telescopic sight, so much fun, and also for blowing up action figures at parties as well, lol.

Just curious, but what brand, and how do you know its extra strength, lol, I assume it says so on the bottle? I use the grey pritt stick power, can be a bit hard to remove too soon, but pops of ok when cool also. I want to try hair sprays, but am not sure which ones to try. The glue it comes with is just not strong enough for tiny fiddly pieces and multiple prints on the same area, it remains unused in a drawer.

and my evil antique baby dolls head, lol. and one just after the acetone.

here i have the steel look vs aged copper, same model, but one ran out of filament near he end, lol. i knew it was just a matter of time, lol.

here is one of my first prints, now in copper! was a real pain to do and needed a lot of cleanup.

its all about quality vs costs for me, and experience had taught me that the um2 needs barely any maintenance and worked great pretty much non stop day and night for over a year. with no extra purchases minus the filament, thats pretty much the reason i got one, i knew that if i kept it clean and didnt hit it too often it would work for a year and deliver. From the above, any thoughts on the mojo are dashed by the talk of costs. i print any old rubbish on my um2 just to keep it busy.

are you sure thats standard black colorfabb?

ive used tons of black colorfabb, and taking photos of it was always impossible in any lighting situation, lol. Unless its been acetoned of course but that one doesnt look like it has. Good reminder though, I need to get more filament, black is high on my list.

Its not high res enough. At .1anything, im pretty sure where it is better in one aspect like overhangs i could do better in detail, an that is more important to me. The minimum wall thickness thing is interesting for crap free models off the net though, but useless from an engineering pov, lol. Untill a printer that can cheaply do smooth models comes along, i find the um2 very satisfactory.

Quality aside, ive never had black pla from colorfabb that doesnt look like satin afterwards, and your looks completely matte so, not sure whats going on there. It doesnt look like standard black colorfabb pla that i use.

ok, plating larger stuff without silver is proving harder than I thought. I think I need another anode or two. not all parts were coated, like 95%, still better than any of my attempts that scale with graphite. I think I may start calculating surface area son, lol. my luck is running out. this tr um green pla is not as smooth as colorfabb after acetone, but it will do considering its all I have. this was done using the brush on method. #btw and the back for te curious...

That old blue pla from um is the best filament ever imho, i bought some more of a dude on ebay a while back, but cant get any more, the new um blue does not serve my purposes, if anyone has any pre 2015 um blue or any other colour um filament, id buy it off you, please PM me.

@mayo77 dont worry, the changes seem minor and just make your life a touch easier and the fan shroud may improve youre prints a touch, but nothing too drastic thats its worth loosing any sleep over. A um3 and id also be upset, i bought mine (um2) only 4 weeks ago so im in the same boat as you. If it works well id leave it, maybe as a beginner the feeder might bother you, but i dont ever print on the roll anymore so the feeder is a non issue for me. The in built ob is handy though as even though i have one, i doubt ill ever get round to installing it, for fear of damaging or ruining anything even though i got all the spare parts, lol. The fan noise also doesnt bother me as much as the mechanical noise so again thats a non issue unless they are actually more pwerful. I have everything stock on my machine. But have found that bending the right fan shroud slightly upwards improves the airflow enough for me to not bother printing a new fan shroud out. I only foundhis out as my work machine had it bent as it arrived and it printed great so when i bought mine its one of the first things i did.

and the um tr green bust in my fav metallic spray.. but this was at 50mm\s so i got the usûal moire all over it. id have to slow down if i want that less.

ive been doing electro plating looking for alternative sprays and solutions to silver and have come to the conclusion that without industrial chems i just cant do it, i found an alternative to graphite that works better though and is only slighty more expensive, but you dont need as much so it works out. the trouble with graphite is that it doenst coat in a uniform fashion like silver. its like a virus, slowly spreads out from the source. and here you can see how the pla shrinks with the acetone treatment, i never knew really how much before as i just saw cracks, but in the metal, it ripples over the crack, so basically if you are going to electroplate, then you need to be sure the acetone has finished warping the pla or else it will peel off overtime.