cloakfiend

lubed up the rods and got this... lastest test. No white (very little bit)

Lol, I don't have any bearings, and I never usually ask for directions either. Once a 1 hour drive took me 6 hours just because i refused to ask for directions (times before smartphones and had no sat nav).!! I called a re-seller and they will contact Ultimaker who will then contact them who will then contact me. I thought it would be simpler to just ask ultimaker here, lol. I guess not? we'll see.

Ok ill see if they can help me. as i don't know anything about bearings....

Thanks for the guide! It doesnt look too difficult! what kind of bearings do i need and where can i get them??

im assuming i need to uncsrew/loosen stuff like the timing pulleys attached to the rods, or can i just push everything through around the rods area, and only unscrew stuff on the head to swap out the rods. And where can i get the new bearings, they dont seem to be selling them on the UM store website? Im pretty sure it will be very difficult for me to not move the belts while carying out this procedure? Knowing me ill move them. How difficult is it to realign the rods, is there a guide for that too? Also im not too sure what you mean by 'activate the end stops' and 'The rod in X (from left to right of the machine) should be something like 1mm away from the left panel). The rod in Y should activate the end stop and not touch the front panel' I dont know which panel and what activating the end stops means? lol. I want to make sure i do this right in case i just damage stuff further like i did installing my OB and not realising the bent shroud would hit the motor when it went home. I totally over looked that, as i didn't realise how close it went to the motor.

I have this problem now. At least i know what it is. How difficult are they to replace? for a total novice? and any good link to instructions? Id really appreciate it.

i think overextrusion is ok if the support is big, but with a new print only supported by its neck, layer lines seem more visible due to wobbling or the overextrusion, or a busted print head, or an atomic pull is needed at long last lol? or simply ethyl acetate is not as good as acetone.... more testing is needed. I hope its not the slight wobble on my printhead since the shroud smashed into the motor? Im noticing some play on i think the bearings. If it is i need to sort it.

Lol, i was concerned about the fan shroud for a while, and regreted trying to install new designs that just didnt seem to fit either with wires sticking out the back or for alternative setups and just gave up eventually going back to the original one, so just bend your existing one slightly to direct the air flow a bit further down and i think you'll be fine, in not in the game of buying stuff i wont need. I already have the OB and a spare pt100 and a 35W heater lying about, but again you dont need them either as i thought the 35W heater was needed for the OB but i was wrong. Some people dont even turn their fans on depending what they print. also the more accurate temp sensor is pointless as long as your one gives stable consistent readings as mine does even though it split when i removed it from the old heatblock. my flow is constant so my temps remain constant. My next purchase will be a new printer rather than upgrades. It would be nice to see some side by side comparisons of a good UM2 detailed print vs a good UM2+ print, as from what ive seen there is not much in it at all if anything at all. The feeder only really improves your print if you print on the roll otherwise it makes no difference unless it actually pushes more material than the other one as i have heard in posts, but whatever, im happy where i am with my UM2 and its staying as it is till it dies from now on (aside from essential maintenance). Im no good at tinkering so ill leave it up to others and have heard from many people that they regretted messing with their printers in order to 'improve them' myself included.

Also the glue that comes with the printer is not the best glue out there and will lose its stick very quickly compared with others glues. I don't use it at all anymore, not even if i run out of mine, its no good for tiny stuff too as if the head knocks it it will most likely knock it off especially support material.

If you want to remove the abs juice quicker than 10 mins or without soaking it for a while then just use warm water with washing up liquid (i used the green fairy brand ) and youll be fine in a minute or so with a plate scrubber and little to no elbow grease so even a child could do it. Slap on the fairy first and then let it work for a minute and just clean it off like cleaning the dirt off a plate. While everyone appears to have their preferred methods for adhesion application, i guess the best one is the simple fact of having a spare glass plate that way the time it takes to coat it, then come of the plate becomes a non issue and all you are looking to improve is warping edges. I use glue as its quick and easy and lasts for months. However i disagree with your hammer blow instant method, as i've split glass off the plate doing that leaving only one side of the glass printable. I do not recommend that at all. Especially if there is a lot of contact.

OK well i got my ethyl acetate today, and im quite impressed, its basically like acetone, maybe a touch stronger, but the advantage is that it doesnt go cold and it doesnt go as white. its a matte finish just like acetone, but im sure you could buff it up touch... more testing will continue, as well as acetone and ethyl mix ratios. ill try 50/50 and go from there. it may not warp either, so thats something worth investigating. Edit. It still goes a bit white depending on the filament, and colder the more you use, i just brushed it on, and will try with lower reses just to see if it is stronger than acetone, as im not so sure. The bottle i bought it in leaked in the mail, which was not good, ill need to find an alternate container. A side note is that Ethyl Acetate is filthier than Acetone which i can deal with, ethyl lingers and after breathing in for a while even going into fresh air, and back indoors even with no ethyl acetate present then you can still smell it. Its dirty. I may just stick to longer acetone dips even though the longer you dip acetone for the more chance you have of it cracking due to the temp changes of it cooling, and also due to subtle hole that the acetone may creep in over time. Brushing on acetone and ethyl acetate has far less effect than a dip, even though brushing on can deliver quite good results if applied correctly.

I had similar issues, although i noticed minor upgrades on my current um2 to the older one i had, like a white bit in the feeder to guide the filament a touch better, a nozzle guard also (which irritated me) and i also got a spare hotend kit( bonus!) , which i needed when i broke my pt100 heat sensor. After replacing it with an offical stock replacement, i noticed my temps also change, it may have been the ob, but who knows. The feeder clicked like my old one, i read before about the diamond grips gripping better if the were positioned a certain way.

Lol, i did this once and chose the umo, and wondered why it was always trying to print in the air!

Nothing has cracked, and the sculpt face i did in the 3d prints section was printed like this. The ONLY thing to suffer is the xy plane area. everything else seems great. you could already see the bridging from the face pics i posted in the ob thread. dutch orange would not make for good bridging due to the consistency. Blue is great as it TR red (all colorfabb btw). I notice the bridging as i always print hollow and in 0.04 so large areas now such as tops of cubes are not a problem if no weight will be put on them, but then again i can always fill them up with resin or something to make them solid. And YES if it works for you, keep on keeping on.... Im not going to tinker for a while now, the new fan shroud and feeder can wait, as far as im concerned it only benefits people who print on the roll, and i don't so why disassemble my printer again?

Im not lowering my resolution, merely pushing more filament through which creates 2 shells instead of three (due to the 0.6 false nozzle setting), hence the faster prints (at nearly the same quality and the same speed). I dont understand either, but to tell you the truth it could work with no overextrusion as well, its just that im noticing the steep inclines look a lot cleaner than they did before, it could be just because ive tweaked my fan, but bridging is definitely better, again could just be my new fan setup with the ob, but i can easily bridge across 4-6cm without any sagging. Now while this may not be an issue for many, ive never seen that kind of bridgeing on my um2 before. Over extruding means that i just print quicker, but suffer worse quality on flat suff on the x/y plane due to the edges no quite touching but its invisible on the z. a 12 hour print would get done in 7 hours with little to no loss of exterior quality. and for me that is a big plus if im printing in 0.04! its almost twice as fast without actually speeding up the head, obviously its only doing 2 shell lines instead of 3 with the 0.6 setting, but i really dont mind, if i use walls 0.8 in cura, I always have issues with the top/bottom, hence always using 1.2 in my settings which never lets me down, also 0.8 wobbles a touch when its filling in and that leads to more visible layer lines that are more difficult to remove. Honestly I dont think overextrusion is improving my print (as clearly it makes no sense) but after the install of the OB bridging is a dream ( i assume its the extra material coming out) and overhangs are much improved even 70-degrees inclines seem good. Im still using the 25W heater and original fan shroud that i bent to change the airflow.

I guess they are just used to print stuff quicker. Obviously not for high detailed stuff. 0.4 nozzle is my nozzle of choice. Ive yet to try the 0.25 one ive had enough of tinkering for the time being.

What effect does ethyl acetate actually have? Just curious as ive not tried it. So chloroform melts completely? Acetone slightly and goes white, ethyl acetate slightly and goes white, so which is stronger? Ethyl or acetone? I think more experiments are needed my last chems did not do much lol. Dioxane is next on my list but its very expensive, like 70-90$ a litre! I hope my mate comes through with the chloroform! Lol.

went to a gallery in london, liked one of the stone statues above the door...so now if i ever want one, lol. this was printed with over-extrusion which enables better overhangs and a quicker print but i feel the quality might be suffering in a few areas, unless cura is behaviour weirdly from my expert settings. i have it on type b subtraction, but that tends to throw flat planes in between faces on occasion? no idea why?

You need a licence though! BTW, What's the difference between ethyl acetate and chloroform on PLA?

The treatment of large prints are always a problem, acetone can be sprayed/brushed on quite easily, so that it a positive aspect, but print times are high on the negative. Im waiting for some chems to arrive, hopefully ill have some positive results. Ill probably find out a perfect method only for sla to become dirt cheap, lol. I dont see that happening in the near future though. At least a few years in my opinion, but who knows?

I know what you mean, even with my acetone method you cant really see the true model surface until you undercoat it. Something that looks awful can look perfect when sprayed, as print photographs are deceptive but not not always, lol. By the looks of it and the nature of the way spheres are printed with fdm (specially the tops) i cant ever imagine any model in low res keeping any detail after being melted, there is just not enough geometry to play with. 0.1 is my limit, but i like my hard edges, and non chamfered edges. 0.2 and above just doesnt cut it for my purposes.

Thats quite nice for 0.1 i dont think my method works for that height but maybe my new trials will solve that problem, only thing is you need to sacrifice more detail the lower res your settings are as the lines are bigger on the print so you need to smooth more.

Hey labern, what layer heights did you print those at?

Just practice calibrating bed levelling, then practice minor adjusting on the fly, and you'll be all set. When i was experimenting at which height to set my ob from my shroud i often forgot to relevel, and just did it on the fly, but to be safe ran the paper method which i have down now so i dont even need to so the adjustments on the fly 99% of the time. Practice makes perfect. Then bed levelling is a non issue.