cloakfiend

Im testing out a new method

Ive broken my old sd card to the point that i couldnt get it out once, but when it did come out was lucky that the plastic was still hanging on. So after many breaks it still works fine. That taught me to calm down when handling it. I find sd cards very durable and reliable, i think very few people break them unless they are in a hurry its no different to a dslr camera sdcard input. I think the fact that i can chuck my printer in the garage and kick off a print is by far more important than anything else. I think as someone said its simply down to laziness, it takes seconds to copy over files and slap the card in and kick off a print that you know will not get interrupted by a computer crash or usb/wifi failure. Why anyone not in control of loads of ums would want anything else is beyond me.

Looks like a good printer, i dont care for aesthetics of machines as long as they do what they are told and can be maintained by me. Is is a quiet machine?

That looks like a really really nice print! I dont even think i could get my um2 to produce something that sharp and clean.

Agreed. I cant remember ever using anyhthing above 210 lately at 30/50mms. Even for 0.2 layer heights. If you are being forced to print that hot its time to do some atomic pulls. 240 is far too hot at low flow speeds. Printing with PLA slow at 240 = mess.

My bed temp is always 60. I have my fans on full the entire time. Almost everything else is default. I have trouble printing at .2 sometimes, but its just lack of experience as im used to printing much higher.

How do very fine details hold up, and corners? My mate said he can get me 2.5 litres so i might try and see how it goes. I hope its not as destructive as acetone is on abs.

Sewing oil is a temporary solution that works if you just want a few more prints before doing your maintenance.

You are lucky that you can get it, does it give you the white residue, and does it warp like acetone.? I have a friend who is a doctor, i may have to ask him, lol.

Works only on Standard Colorfabb and old discontinued Ultimaker PLA filament from my experience, but that is because I'm only using colorfabb, its pha with pla, acetone will not work with only PLA! And forget about the cloud chamber, I've had people complaining to me that it doesnt work, when they didn't even read my thread!!! I've been doing it for over a year and a half, I know it works. Check my acetone thread out in the art of printing section, read it all to get the best idea, and check out the video (red face one as its the newest) Good Luck. It takes some getting used to, and i have a different method now, but its a good start. Its not as aggressive as acetone on ABS so you may still have some faint lines but on the plus side you will keep all the fine details unlike ABS with acetone. All my models in the gallery have been acetoned. P.s. expect to ruin some models experimenting BTW! warping and total destruction is an issue if you aren't careful.

The blue is the best quality in my opinion. but they are all good for .04, overhangs did well, all the surfaces are very smooth, its only on the horizontal part of the base that you see the over-extrusion, i didnt relevel or do any atiomic pulls either which is nice as it saves me time.

I used to get this from time to time and sewing oil solved it for me, just lube up all the horizontal rods and see if that helps. You probably have dry rods and loose pullies. lube helps, but it means something is rubbing.

Here are the finished OB print tests. I lowered the temps too much at the start of the dutch orange, hence the underextruded layer which broke off when I was taking it from the plate. other than that I think the ob is fine for my purposes, I still have one more delicate test but so far so good.

Overextrusion might help you, im having a lot of luck with that recently. Dial in a 0.6 nozzle for a 0.4 one and see how that goes?

You should be able to pick some up at the local kidnappers warehouse, lol. I think you need a licence for that. Its a very dangerous chemical. just like mercury. Just use acetone like me, much safer.

Always apply glue stone cold just like ABS juice. I learnt that during my ABS days. dont know about hairspray as ive not tried it yet. I also never use brim, or have ever used it, glue is enough and im not a fan of wasting time printing extra stuff. I also rarely use supports, but of course its unavoidable at times. P.S. Dont apply the glue on the bed when it is still attached, and most importantly learn to take it off and on without disturbing the levelling, trust me you'll thank me for this later.

On the flip side, i got an extra free hot end kit! Bonus!

Color Fabb is the one to use in my opinion. Ive been using it exclusively for about a year and a half now with zero issues, lovely consistency, and i know a place to get it cheap ;)like $20 a roll! Cant beat it. Also all their filament seem to print at the same settings which is nice, apart from a few which are a touch more runny but its really negligable and will print great at the same temps. Works great with high and low res as well, im using 0.04 at the mo and it looks great. You also need to find the right glue, or hairspray, i personally use the silver version of prit stik called prit stik power, but each to his own. I,ve been using the same application of glue for about 3 months now, you can even tell i havent re applied from the pictures ive posted! Lol.

Here is a blue over-extruded one, exactly the same settings as the red, 0.4 nozzle with 0.6 selected from cura. dutch orange is more runny, meaning it doesnt handle overhangs very well but surface looks good am currently printing slightly lower and dropped it too low at one point so i got some under-extrusion, but that was experimenting to see how low i could go, but lower temps with runny filament doesnt help that much from what i see... ill post a finished pic for comparisons, but now i think i don't even need the new fan shroud for the ob, this one appears to do the job just fine with minor adjustments to the shape.

Having extensively used a UM2 for over a year non stop and another newer UM2 for almost three months straight makes me want to do an honest no bullshit review of the UM2 without any bad smell or auto calibration nonsense, and focus on explaining what it does how it does it, and why its my FDM printer of choice, even after bad times.

I hadnt re-levelled my bed since i bought my machine 3 months ago or replaced the glue or done any atomic pulls between materials. Granted i did not change nozzles but now I have installed my ob, albeit painfully and possibly damaging my head while i was at it, i still found levelling a one time affair that took less than a minute. I think most people are simply not careful enough about taking their models/plates off. its that simple. I personally think re levelling is ONLY necessary when changing nozzles or after at least after a few months. However I also didn't have a clue at the start. You need to memorise how it feels when its right, otherwise you will always get it wrong and get angry like I do, lol. You cant show someone, they need to feel it. If you cant feel subtle differences in pressure from the nozzle touching the paper, you will unfortunately struggle and want auto calibration. For people who have their beds calibrated, auto calibration is simply a waste of time and pointless wear on already hard worked machinery, unless its done by laser without moving anything rather than banging against glass. If you (Ultimaker people) are going to introduce it then please make it optional rather than a must before every print.

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Just prepare it in your hand like this first making sure its going round the right way to go in the feeder and then pop it on! ***EDIT*** you may want to slap the roll on just to make sure it doesnt fall off. I forgot that when i did this last, it was on my works um2 and i forgot i put a paper cup at the end to prevent the filament from falling off. Anything will do just as long as there is no way for the filament to get caught up, or fall off the end.

Hello all, I keep getting brought up on this as I always recommend it as the truly risk free and snag free way of printing on my regular UM2, however its not as simple as just throwing some random amount of filament on the back and kicking off a print. The key to no snags is to ensuring a perfect spring shaped arrangement of the filament, only this will work as otherwise you may as well be printing on a roll. Also note that as the filament might want to go somewhere else as its getting fed into the feeder, gently push it against the side of the um2 so that it sits a bit better as its fed in. That's it! go to sleep wake up later and you will have a perfect print, assuming everything else went well, lol. here is a small amount in action.... and a much larger one... im doing at the moment. you can go larger, but youll need to print a longer holder as it may fall off! I also have an entertaining way of making sure the filament is a perfect spring, but ill need to show you in a video as it will be easier to explain. Works in seconds!

I'm loving it! the quality is much better and i get my print quicker!! more internal stringing but better overhangs and overall quality for some reason, i may try 0.5 instead of 0.6 as i see some non important anomalies. i had a feeing it was just extruder speed related rather than diameter related as all the surfaces are perfectly smooth. Seeing as the um2+ had heavier objects compared to the um2, is it overextruding compared to the um2? So basically if you see this, you are over-extruding, definitely better than under-extruding!!! I'm now very happy with my upgrade! EDIT: the flat surface lines under closer inspection indeed do not connect as ultijan said, but walls connect, so for organic stuf, this is a fantastic time saver, but for flat horizntal stuff no good if you want it perfect. Is there a way of increasing the flow in cura to increase it a touch as i dont like using that setting on the pinter? i only adjust temps live, flow and speed i stay away from ad they make weird noises when you change them.