cloakfiend

i love ultra close pics that dont hide anything, and you sure have them. Its the anti vibration properties that realoy impresses me. I have no idea about esteps or what im meant to do with them but i do know i want a ruby nozzle! Lol. Thanks for the link!

I didnt get any feeder clicking with dutch orange compared to all my other colours, it just flowed.

Regarding price, i could in theory pay ten times the price seeing as i never replace my nozzles. Ive been using the same one in one printer for over a year and a half and plan on never changing the other in my personal one unless i really need to. Id happily pay 10 - 20 dollars or pounds for something that yielded better accuracy that something else, but seeing as its the prints and not machine part measurments that matter then im just going to assume im going to just have to figure it out myself.

If i buy a 0.4 nozzle. I expect it to be 0.4 not 0.35 just like a 0.25 nozzle should be 0.25 and not 0.2. I dont see why they just dont measure them when the make them? I would expect them to have the right tools to do so considering its their business? So much for quality control.

im pretty sure mine is 0.4 as the surface is as smooth as silk on flat prints. Seeing as this level of accuracy is simply too small for me to measure and i assume 99% of the other casual printer users out there ill just continue to simply experiment to see what works best for me. For that exact reason i find presets a bit pointless considering they may or may not be suitable for all. Just like temps and other things. I fully understand it needs to be taken into account from an engineering point of view but its something that id rather figure out for myself from a practical aspect as all the variables from filament diameter to actual nozzle width is really not something i want to start taking into consideration. Im just gonna stick to the old cura that i know. It just seems to be overcomplicating things instead of simplifying them. Too many settings are unnecessary in my opinion. So flow has been rolled into the line width somehow and thats in addition to the nozzle size? Does that mean i can tell my printer my nozzle is 0.6 when its really 0.4 and still get a 0.6 line simply by telling it i want a 0.6 line? If not, im confused. Many people still refer to their nozzles as 4mm which i find quite amusing.

I find any superglue works just fine, even the ultra cheap ones from diy stores and im pretty sure it doesnt have to be loctite. Ive coincidentally also used the gels because they give you a touch more time to align stuff compared to the straight glue. He forgot to mention as many have done that it needs to be relatively new or unopened as old superglue doenst always bond well.

Dont be afraid, do it. Just slide a normal sized ruler behind the feeder motor and it wont fall out, i find it to be an almost perfect fit, you may need to bend it a little just to make it flush when you are putting it back but it nothing to be afraid of and wont affect your prints. Ive taken mine off loads. Its the first thing i did. I personally have no issues.with that feeder apart from it being closed so i cant fish debris out without taking it off. There is just one spring inside and a white thing and if you are careful nothing will fly out (and there are loads.of photos atound of it so dont worry). Id just give it a good blow with an air duster unles you are sure something is stuck. Id take it off just to get used to not being afraid of taking if off as otherwise its something to fear. Dont worry its not delicate and there is zero chance of you damaging anything in there even if you do it when your drunk! You will need to take stuff apart eventually and to maintain it so wht not start with one of the easiest and safest parts to remove? After all, youre gonna do it any ways. Oh yeah, just make sure you dont put it on backwards then everything happens in reverse, lol!

You might waste a tiny bit of filament here and there but in my opinion printing off the roll is the only way to guarantee zero tangles ever. I have not had a tangle since printing like this, and i do long prints, sometimes 50hrs plus. To avoid waste cut off as much as you can fit on and make sure it is perfectly laid out just like a spring without any overlapping and your prints will look the best they can. This is the only way i print. I gave up printing on the roll for the same reasons you are complaining about. There is no other solution that guarantees zero tangles, only this.

I print at 185 for 0.06 and 175 for 0.04 and only really stick to 30mms my bed is always at 60, maybe 55 for 0.04 but only for small stuff. If my model has many retractions i just slap an extra 10 odd degrees or so on top to be sure. I have had no failed prints in the last year from the filament, i had some issues with my old.um2 but thats cos i worked it hard 24/7 and the rods needed tightening, but thats about it. I dont even see myself getting the upgrade kit anytime soon because i see no benefit for my purposes.

Sory mate, dont take anything i say personally, its just the way i am. Im sorry youre not having a lot of luck and can only advise you to keep on trying and trying to logically think why things are going wrong and what you could do to get them better. I admit it took me a few months to figure everything out myself, and there were man moments i wanted to pick up my UM2 and smash it on the floor while swearing non stop. Read the forum a lot and find out as much info as you can even if it contradicts itself, then you be the judge, good luck. No hard feelings, lol.

Once you are familiar with how your um2 printer works there is no problem. I often find people are stubborn and think they know the best way to use their printer and wont listen to any advice regardless. This just confuses and frustrates me, as they cleary dont if ther are having many issues when i dont on exactly the same printer, including their unit. It would take many paragraphs of explanation as to why exactly certain things must be done in certain situations, but still i have not seen anyone do it. Just individual cases covering issues. You need to really want to know why and be open to reasons you may not agree with. My friend is an engineer and believes my tinkering is and has damaged the printer yet i achieve near perfect if not perfect results every time when his fail almost every time. He wont listen to my 'workarounds' as he calls them, and believe that ultimaker produced a printer that you should be able to print perfectly from everytime regardless, just by pressing start. He thinks that if it breaks they should come and fix it. I believe he's in fantasy land. We now agree to disagree. some people just dont listen people who are not from their field, and wont take any advice even in times when they really need it. Your ultimaker WILL eventually need the nozzle cleaned, and the temps manually adjusted according to the brand of pla. these are Undeniable facts in my opinion and if ignored WILL lead to poorer prints. Ultimaker made the printer, but the methods of using it floorlessly are no-where to be found from what ive seen. People may know but they arent sharing their wisdom. Its also quite tiring repeating yourself when no one is willing to listen. Things never work in the wild as they do in the lab, this at least should be common knowledge. If you are in London and are struggling with colorfabb drop me a pm and if ive got time ill come show you how i do things, but im not wasting time writing things up as some things need to be seen first hand as instructions are often misleading due to interpretations, much like religion. I believe what i believe and no one can change my mind. As usual, sorry for the rant and no i dont work for colorfabb. Sometimes i think i should considering the amount of times i plugged their filament for the past year and a half odd.

Considersimg 0.6 from a 0.4 nozzle works well, with the disadvantages ive already stated, i can imagine 0.46 to perhaps be perfect you'd only have to print a flat object to find out. If its smooth with no gaps in the layer then its a go! As a result you will also benefit from slightly better bridging as ive also shown in pics somewhere on the ob thread. Layer height quality is unaffected by fake settings. It also prints your model slightly quicker which is a plus and which is probably why its used in the quick print setting. I highly recommend people to experiment as i have had very positive results even using 0.04 layer heights which print in exactly the same time as 0.06 would but are sharper vertically. Im after quality not sheer speed, thats for devs and kids in my opinion. The main trouble ir retractions for me, it cools the nozzle too much and causes problems for the fake setting leading to an increase in temps as my main solution which some what works to an extent, depending on the amount of them per layer.

I'll buy one when I get back from my holiday if they are still there. The price is good and I'll post my printouts when I get it. I'll be surprised if it's that bad but I heard white can be a pain to print with due to the additives.

I've not tried their whites as I see no purpose for 3D printing in that colour as I feel spray paint looks way better than a 3D printed surface. But who knows, I'll check out eBay now and see how much the shipping is.

Its a secret but I'll pm you next time I order.

Id gladly take any colorfabb filament off your hands (purchase of course), but your too far away for shipping fees to be worthwhile for me as i get it for $20 a roll as it is.

Note that some are runnier than others but they all pretty much print with exactly the same settings so it makes life easier than switching between brands. Ive not used the speciality ones though, im just talking about the regular pla colours.

Where was the spool? The bowden tube still stuck out too much of the box at 0.26s which would have caught on the packaging and the fact that it was started when already in the box, was a bad idea. Its videos like these that mislead people into thinking 3d printers are plug and play. When they are not. Sorry to be a party pooper and i know its just fun advertising but these kind of unrealistic videos get on my nerves. PostNL must really take care of their goods, because when my brothers plasma tv arrived via TNT it was in a water drenched destroyed cardboard box.

Ive been using colorfabb since I bought the printer and as the above post says, no headaches. I used to love ultimaker filament but the recipe changed a while back and i permanently switched to colorfabb.

Ive done a lot of printing with fake large nozzles and the only benefit i saw was better bridging. But the downsize is oozing, side walls not touching and flat surfaces dont quite meet. In cura 15.4.2 the nozzle deault is most definitely not .46. I used 0.6 setting for a 0.4 nozzle though so they dialled it way back thinking in my opinion it was the best compromise in terms of quality. The only way to see is to do a print with flat bits at .46 and .4 and judge for yourself, and welcome yourself to endless tinkering....lol

You could always build a soundproof enclosure round the entire thing, but its a machine thats moves constantly and changes direction rapidly, so its always going to make noise. silent operation would be near impossible unless the machine was much heavier, but even then in a very quiet house you will still hear it. I sleep one floor above my um2 which sits on a high density sound proofing foam to eliminate floor vibration and still faintly hear it even at 30mm/s. If i had ANY other noise like ac or a tv on somewhere i wouldnt. sound travels unfortunately.

It may be useless info but if you want support material only in specific places as cura just puts loads under ALL of the overhangs sometimes even when not needed, then just include a polygon with 0 thickness to the base and no support will be placed there. Its not quite drawing your support, but more like drawing where you dont want it.

You probably just have a slow jam, your prints look good. Do like a million atomic pulls and try it again. If youre worried its the pfte then just change it, but i found that the pfte is dead only when i cant do any atomic pulls. Nozzle clogs are not so simple to see with abs btw, its always more visible with pla, as it melts at lower temps, and its the lower temps which cause the jams. I dont print 0.1 much so cant advise you on that, but another thing i would do if i wad you would be printing hollow (zero shell, as for small stuff you dont need it, just make the shell a bit thicker my default is 1.2 for everything. Its never failed me 0.8 has failed me loads and i never go below 1.2 now.

Im on a holiday right now, lol. Ill take a look at that model when i get back, the barrel is the thing that appears larger rather than rhe handle, but ill just snap all the top verts to get them level, and if that wont work then it might have been exporting at a slight angle or something. Eitherway, its the first time ive got layering on the top surface so im pretty sure its the model

modelling for cad, and animation, and games and 3d printing are all very different. Also size matters and shell thinkness is the most important in 3d printing as when you print small your shell tends to become too thin to print. If you make the model solid then you control how thick it is in cura. I did read a slicer that was going to thicken the shell for stuff that is too small, which would be a good feature for people who cant model and want to print random stuff off the web. As most things are not designed to print. To make youre model good, just close all the holes on ALL elements and then activate the intersections from the advanced menu in cura that way you dont need to boolean or weld verts and you should still be able to animate it just as before. I use 15.04.2. You should be fine then. I would print the body in one, and the head seperately in two halves for maximum quality, or just experiment for yourself as you might not care about quality like i do. Lol. Good luck.