neotko

Superb!

I bough x4 3 weeks ago from makertronics.co.uk - Linear Bearing LM6LUU 6mm Long Bushing

I have found a company and a guy that works with titanium and they are making me a few units on Titanium with tungsten disulphide coating, that 'on theory' should have close to 'zero' sticky-ness. But I'm doing it for UMO+ heads. In two weeks or so I'll have one on my hands to do the tests and if it works for UMO+ the solution shouldn't be hard to use it on UM2. If this works, the tungsten disulfide coating supports 650ºC... And 'on paper' it has less than half the friction resistance than teflon. Other advantage of the titanium it's that it has less heat dispersion and the tungsten coating can be applied. Also I have other heatbreak barrels coming from china done in just titanium without coating, to check the natural sticky-ness.

The um2 block won't work on umo+ without some redesign, since the alu block has different screw holes. Try to check if all the sides are correctly screw or use some glue, I don't know what's the best glue for metal+wood, but I suppose just an epoxy would do the job. You could try to laser cut the upper part or find someone who has a spare of that wood parts. I bet that if you ask support they might even send you a few x4 wood parts. Personally I would not glue them, but that's just me Have you double check if the x/y are perfectly aligned? That also should help remove extra tension? Just dropping ideas...

The system works, but I won't publish the stl yet. I think it can be improved to make more room and my design has 2 big flaws. 1 - The fans on this orientation have very little room (23mm) or they hit the Z/motor/stuff. 2 - The area used for the nozzle it's 20mm too big, I have designed a new aluminium holder that uses just 'enough'. It will take 2 weeks for the company that cuts the aluminium to sent it to me. 3 - The way I aligned the main magnet changer forces to change the hole of the endstops (clearly foehnsturm saw this and his stl don't have that problem, but I changed stuff and well, I didn't saw it coming) Good stuff I found. There's no need for the 8mm aluminium, with 4mm and some nuts 'down' it works perfect to adjust both nozzles so both are on the perfect spot. (The photos show the alu with nuts inside, but I removed them on what I have. I'm going to align all the stuff from cero, and probably will place the heads on the end of the machine, to make the print area clearer. This is a early design, but there's much to change (alignment etc etc)

So far got everything working. Except that I need to print something for the second head. But both hotends are working and I just need to make the x/y gcode to do a final test with both extruders

Nevermind a hammer did the job. This post was the day the disconnected the old forum.

Hi. Yesterday after the 11th nozzle change (really long history) I got filament leak. The aluminium block screw died (part of alu came out when unscrewing the heatbreak). So I cooled it off waiting and after removing the m3 I wasn't able to move the pt100. Tryed pushing from the other side of the hole and nothing. It broke in the end. Now I have the heater hyper stuck inside. It doesn't move not even a mm. What are my options? Try to drill the alu block? (I really don't have a room to drill metals safely). Anyone knows a trick? Maybe hitting with a hammer from the exit hole?

Anyone knows if something like this could work connecting this between the crossflow fan and the board direct 24v output to the fan? http://www.aliexpress.com/item/6V-30V-6A-Reversible-DC-Motor-Speed-Control-PWM-Controller-Switch-PWM-Regulation-Fan-Control-for/32221565091.html

The crossflow fan has just two cables (+\-) and no pwn control. When I had the transistor dead was after a minute or so testing speeds with the ulticontroll. The crossflow starter at 40-60/255 and at 255 it literally could make the filament fly.

Guys I didn't even did check this, I just though this was my amps but yesterday I was about to cut the cable of the crossflow fan to pack everything and then I saw the sticker. How come a 335mA 24V device, can kill the transistors of my Umo+ 2.1.1 board? Its very very well underspecs, so what does that means, that the error wasn't mine but of the umo electronics? And also, if the V/mA are more than 'underspecs' why did the transistor died?

Maybe it's titanium with tungsten disulphide?

Hi I just love Cura combine, it's there any other software that can do that with stls and export them as stl? I mean I love Cura, but sometimes I need to control infill % or change the angle of supports/etc and my other program to print isn't not even close as good as cura on the fix-stl department. I use mac and I have netfabb but even that don't fixes the stl as good. I don't mind if the program works for windows since I can just run that too. Thanksss

Yeah the electronics of um2 will let you work with that diamond nozzle as far as I know to use two extruders isnt the problem. Ultimaker choosed not to lauch 2 extruders becuase the quality and heat but if you make your own mount that should work. Also that extruder uses one heater only right? That mens you could put a 40w heater (max of the stock power supply since um2 uses 20w heaters).

Added a v2 version New Version V2. - Based on the original desings of the Metal Fan Cap from UMO+ that can be found on ultimaker github at https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker-Original-Plus/tree/master/1501%20Print%20Head%20Fancap%20Meta... - The 3dm files are much more editable so you can make your 'fan area' freestyle. - Cleaned the clamp area to be much smaller and much more tight to the aluminium. - I recommend to add a small strip of blue tape between the alu and the printed if you print it on pla, that will give enough air so it don't deforms. Edit: Just run a overhang print test, not extrictly a 'test' but a print I'm doing.

If anyone interested on adding an extra fan on UMO+ without removing the aluminium cap... https://www.youmagine.com/designs/umo-extra-right-fan

I come from davinci too. On umo+ happens the same (but I just can turn the extruder manually. Cura retracts 5 at the end of a print and extrude 3 at the start (check Gcode start/end) It's normal to not push filament just at the start. I like this since it leaves only the minimum on the head cooling after a print and at the start of a print it's always good yo use a brim or a skirt. You can change the start gcode con cura on expert settings and adjust the numbers as you see fit. I changed mine to retract 15 at the end of a print. This way I can always change the filament without heating the nozzle. And I just push it manually at the start of a print. You could change the start to push more at the start changing that.

Well finally found a company that could cut my 4mm aluminum. I'll have 4 units 'hopefully' on friday. I have also take the time to improve my design and make it 2cm smaller. Also the distance between hotends will be just 2-3cm (more or less) different from the dual extrusion experimental kit. Also because the head it's 2,5 shorter on a side I think the print area loss will be minimum, and if only one head it's used it should increase it. I think I'll also post a single head solution for the stock hot end. Now I'm trying to find the best solution for the fans, and probably I'll go with 30x30x10 fans x3, one with the main area and one on each hotend. What's the best glue to stick the neodymium magnets to the pla? I have superglue, glue for plastics, ptfe binary, wood glue (this one sure isn't any good) and a glue gun (that for what I saw googling won't work since the heat can kill the magnet). Should I buy other glue? Edit: I also have Loctite 638...

Just one question. Since the 'serial' setup isn't the best way to go, why Ultimaker does it on the UM2? What can happen if one of the fans die while printing over night and the other gets 24v? Does that mean that UM2 should have 24v bolt parallel fans or zeners like Zoev89 suggested?

Hi, I tried to find find a lasercut+wood shop without much success, some don't have this kind of wood (absolutely non in spain has this wood + lasercut. Anyone knows a europe laser cut that already worked with ultimaker laser cut files? Or if anyone give this service could send me a msg? Thanks! Solved

Maybe be the feeder needs some cleanning and tension checking. Wtry cleanning the round metal (drive) and check the tension. Ofc It can be other stuff but I lost 3 days checking/cleanning nozzles/etc and in the end was a feeder problem

The only two gcode controlled pwn connections on um2 (as far as I know) are led and fan yeah. For just pwn there's a 24v (designed for board cooling fan). But can't be controlled it's always on.

I got s3d since 4months ago. It's quite nice on doing some stuff. The only part I hate it's that it don't heals the fast stl as good as cura. But it has some very nice features. I use it for good fine prints. For print and run I go cura

The 5V I don't think it's a problem since that will go in parallel to the 5V exit of the board and that area don't have transistors etc. The fan/led exit has that power control (to control speed/etc) so that it's more sensitive. I don't think that (for what I have been reading) that it should be much a problem to do what I think. At worst the fan might die if one of them it's off. Since all the amps it's way far from the transistor limit. But for stability the zeners might be a must. I think that to go on the 'safe' I'll just go with x4 24v fan in parallel. I was thinking about 12v fans because I wanted to use 25x25x10 fans, and that ones are very hard to find in 24v. I'll just jump to 30x30x10 on 24v. 0,5cm should not be a big issue.

Hi, I'm thinking of using x4 25x25x10 fans for my mod setup for A different multi-extrusion approach - UM tool / printhead changer The think it's that, because I already burned some transistors in the past I think it's better to ask around before burning something again (sorry I'm hyper noob on the electronics/voltage area). I want to plug x4 fans of 12v to my UMO+ 24v connection. To do this do I need to connect 2 pairs in serial in parallel? I mean x2 fans in serial and both pairs connected in parallel. Something like Daid said on this post to connect 12vs to 24v #2 I mean this: It's that correct?