neotko

On paper the titanium nozzle it's one of the things that save cash on ptfe, heat breaks and fans. According to they kickstarter they have solved a few things very well, the heat for pla etc. Anyway for small long time prints seems to be really promising.

How you secures the mk8? I though about doing this weeks ago but all the motora I found didnt had or the connector or the metal was rounded. Did you dremel a bit to make it flat on the screw for the mk8?

I see. Well the think its that the way it clamps in and out it's a slide movement, so I think something like C would hit when the head parks when it changes the angle that makes the magnets loss strength so they can get separated from the main magnet changer. I think the use of B rotated should help make the vertical forces disperse to the main changer. Anyhow on my mod for umo I placed 2 millimetters that actually rest on the upper part and the lower part also, so the up/down forces are always transfered to the main area. At least that's my theory I think there's a point where too much magnet force can be a problem, clearly foehnsturm it's on a sweet spot, his prints videos show real repeatable accuracy. I think that he solved this on a very elegant way. Edit: Well after changing the clamps I saw why I used also the same kind of clamps, it's because overhangs. You have holes on a side and overhangs on the other, and in my case I think one part I could manage to change so it don't need supports but the main clamp area has holes and that thinks to ajust, so unless you print in two parts and glue, that kind of helpers won't help much, at least not for my early design.

Well I had to uninstall the alu fan holder to put some e3d nozzles. This cap does not work well with this size nozzles. And my old cannibalized fan + printed fan, it's doing much better job at overhangs. I need to print a robot, but so far they are quite ok. My Cannibal setup: And as promised I got some measures of the fan cap 2.0 just in case someone want to do something with it. And in PDF just in case you want to check the numbers faster or the photos, in my dropbox https://www.dropbox.com/s/am2xzkg0cdsneg7/alufanholder20umo%2B.pdf?dl=0

I order them from makertronics.co.uk - Linear Bearing LM6LUU 6mm Long Bushing

Once I cleanned my leaking headblock (when I learned to mount/unmount nozzles) with high preassure air from a can. Because it's hot it just flys out.

I like cone B since it might get more x/y as you say. Also the cones need to have some 'slippery' so they disconnect on a smooth way. I like your B cone. I'll try that for me second part of the designs as soon as I find a company that can make me some aluminium. There's not even one online shop that can just buy/pay fast like the shop foehnsturm pointed. A shame that shop don't delivers to spain :(. Also I think for the final design a propper cnc part would really help to calibrate the heads small differences. This monday more magnets arrive. I want to try the circled ones with m3 holes (easy/fast to screw). Also got some bearings on the way like Macua85 said, good idea to be able step back in just a few minutes.

Try again eith a raft. Material compression it's more noticeable on large areas specially if the infill was high (more material more tension while cooling).

gr5 I order 10 (minimun amount) of titanium tc4. In two weeks or so I'll be testing it on my umo. It this works it might help for the heat to no go up on materials like wood that jam with retractions.

That's a perfect idea, much cheaper than cnc for sure and will do the job just as well. For this weekend since I still have day and a half free I'm going to try to MacGyver this That's aluminium folded from baking boxes my wife 'had' (now they are mine XD) after folding and bench vice it with one aluminium oven mold, so 2 more to go and then some drilling and should be nice. If it don't holds well I'll put some loctite 638 that can withstand 180C without problems. Edit: Bad idea never try again

Olsson it's only for um2, on umo you have more freedom to use stock with many m6 nozzles. Btw I found the video I saw while I was waiting my UMO+ to arrive. It's a nice video about changing nozzles, and heat, and etc. It will give you the basics really nice.

Seems I have hit a wall. The plywood idea was ok on my mind but after reading some documents about the heat that can withstand at more than 100C it starts to loose weight and at 150 starts to become charcoal, at 200C can combust. So not a good idea. Anyone knows somewhere in europe than can cnc 2 small parts in aluminium? I uploaded the pdf/step files to my dropbox if someone can give me a hand please pm with prices or if someone can point me to a good shop for this small amount, that could be superb https://www.dropbox.com/s/tg7kft99lgjekuy/HALF-1048-A2P-A.zip?dl=0

Seems you are right about the heat. The maximun it can support it's 150C and it losses weight. At 200C it can combust. http://www.performancepanels.com/thermal-properties Anyone knows somewhere in europe that can CNC two small aluminium holders (exactly the half size of the umo aluminium holder) ?

I though I could use the bearing from my UMO, you think it's better to get a new set?. I suppose that way I could have my head ready to plug it without having to reassemble everything umm.. No the skin it's just temporary for using and removing the magnets. I just use a lighter and the skin peals so I can remove them until the final design its set. Also I think that I will use round magnets that have space for an m3-m4 to avoid the glue.

Hi, Maybe someone with more know-how could answer this. I'm trying to mount a head holder for the dual extruder magnetic proyect created at http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/9657-a-different-multi-extrusion-approach-um-tool-printhead-changer/ My question it's... The aluminium part that it's holding the peek isolator. It's aluminium just because that area it's hot or it also plays as heat dissipation ? I ask because my thermal says it goes around 100-120C (the aluminium stays around 30-40) and if I changed it for wood I might be making a big mistake and increase a lot the chances of clogs. Thanks

I been fiddling with the dual extrusion basic stls trying to adapt it to umo stock heads. So far the progress it's ok. The neodiums are fit inside the holes, that lowers the clamp power, but the neodiums have good strengh. Anyway on the final design I'll loctite them. Prolly I'll try to use neodiums that come with an m3 hole, a mix of the ones that let you have a clean clamp because the angle of the hole and the others, they will arrive on monday so will see. The idea it's to use that 'half' cut parts that are like the wood stocks, and saw off them in half. With my spare V2 hotend pack they come 2, that should be enough for 2 stock heads. I want to use the wood ones because Peek Isolator upper part only reaches 30-50C (that's what my thermal camera tells me at least) but the body of the peek insulator reaches easyly 100-130C on the outside. So that's why I wan't to saw in half the wood parts, to have a good and safe clamp on the peek insulator. I did a few mistakes on the measures but they are easily fixable. Also by using just half of the wood size I saved quite a bit of space and since the clamp area it's 50cm long because the wood size I think it was a nice first approach . Now I need to cut the wood in half and check how this holds the weight. Edit: Don't mind the print quality I printed at 9mm3 speed XD

You could also rotate the fans so they stay stationary on the magnetic camp center. The space shouldn't be a problem since you are already using some for the second head mount

You could also use the power from the leds to have a different fan power setup for the second head. Just in case the second head material needs different fan power and this eay you can turn the fans on/off for each head

On my Umo+ (um2 board) and after breaking some stuff I can assure you there's no problem. On fans you can put 500milliamps max (400 to be safe). I run x2 24v fans in parallel. On the paper um2 has enoguh power for dual heads and all that. But it's really right. The heads uses 20w instead of 40w umo+ so for me I had to use a new power supply.

It's weird that they use titanium on their nozzles for this 3d printer if it sticks. Maybe one titanium alloy that doesn't... The printer that seems to be using it it's called Tiko, ofc it's a totally different kind of printer, but the titanium did call my attention. "TITANIUM NOZZLE Achieving our demanding thermal performance criteria also required the use of a one-of-a-kind aerospace-grade Titanium alloy nozzle. The nozzle minimizes conduction to the heatsink without the need for an insulating barrel. The reduced heat flux results in a nozzle that requires very little energy to maintain its temperature, making it exceptionally energy efficient." https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/tiko3d/tiko-the-unibody-3d-printer

Guys can I drop a question? I was wondering after reading about the design of a new 3d printer in kickstarter (no news there) that what would happen if the upper throat of the heater (the heater insulator on umo and the upper barren on um2) where made of titanium. Titanium has much less thermal conductivity so (the idea that I had, and I could be toyally wrong) it's that if the heat that goes up it's less by a great % then the plastic ptfe and that other brown one, might never get around the dangerous 260C+. I found a chinashop that can make me a few heat insulators in titanium to check this idea and I was wondering if it's crazy or good crazy?

What machine do you use? UMO or UM2? On umo you could unscrew the part left inside. If you had pla leaking probably was because the nozzle must be set in place cold (not fully) then heating the hotend to 150-200 you tight (no need for brute force just until it's ok). On umo you can use many M6 nozzles. The ones from ultimaker/reprap/e3d. If you use E3D nozzles you will need to move the bed stop since the length it's different. There are a few good videos onyoutube about changing nozzles. If your machine it's um2. Then as reibuehl said you might want to take the opportunity and get an olsson block. The part left inside (if your machhine its the umo) the problem should be that without heat you might damage the block unscrewing it. Also get proper heat gloves. I got a small burn of 0.4mm because I didn't use it the first time I changed nozzles.

You might want to check the Osson Block to be able to use 0.25 nozzles. That will allow you to print more detailes for small objects. Or faster prints with an 0.8 http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7689-custom-heater-block-to-fit-e3d-nozzle-on-ultimaker-2/?view=getnewpost

I bough one on china, just to have an spare one, 120€ but it did come without the power button also I have not turn it on so it's more like the 'schrodinger' board, good quality has a price. What happens to your board? I broke some transistor by playing with the board and I got a lot of help on this forums and finally I went to a guy that had all the equipment and did the repairs for much less than a new board.

IRobertI feeder design (the one for um2) has very nice supports and just by looking at his design you can learn a lot. https://www.youmagine.com/users/iroberti