frederiekpascal

I'll give the "Um2 Hot End Labern Dual Fan Shroud I2 K V3" a try I'll print it in XT, do I need the kapton tape also?

so should I change anything to my S3D retraction settings in your opinion?

I bought it too to get more controls from my printer. Indeed (at least for me) a steep learn curve. It took me some time to get decent prints out of it. But it got it working perfectly and I like the program a lot so far!

En overweeg zeker ook een Olsson block, dit was voor mij de beste upgrade voor mijn UM2.

My retraction speed is on 40mm/s on the printer itself. (for Cura Gcodes) But when I use Simplify3D then I got this settings : and

I had some trouble in the beginning to get it configured correctly. This was my first time I even saw a Raspberry Pi! I had no knowledge of different Gcodes ("UltiGcode" & "RepRap" etc etc) and I struggled many hours for finding this settings in my Cura. After reading this feature was not yet implemented in the beta I switched to Cura 15.04.02 and got this first issue fixed. The 2nd issue I had with Octoprint was the default start gcode and end gcode was not working properly for me. I tested many gcodes I found on the internet and got one working for my configuration perfectly. Issue fixed. The 3rd issue I had was the webcam was not working. This was fixed fast, I bought an original Raspberry Pi camera and issue fixed. The 4the issue was the on remote web-access for the Octoprint configuration. (only with this feature working Octoprint would have an advantage to use for me) After setting up a DDNS account and opening the correct ports in our company firewall for the web-access, I got it all working. All issues fixed! It took me several days to get Octoprint working cause I started with zero knowledge of Linux, Raspberry Pi and Gcodes. But now it's working and this platform gives me a true advantage to use. Our 3D printer is located at my office which is 50km from where I live. In the beginning I helped myself with simple webcam (which I still use for the top view of my prints) and a Wemo switch (you can turn on and off the power on remote, this was quite handy for me when I saw a print going wrong cause I didn't have to travel 50km to turn the printer off) But now I got a real true interface to manage my printer on remote. The webcam still needs a mount which goes together with my platform but I'm working on it. Still haven't found a good mount for my raspberry pi camera. I prefer one that can be mounted on the print platform for timelapse movies. Here are a few screenshots of my octoprint config right now printing on remote. This is the old webcam I'm still using still using for the top view (you can see the real amateur mount-tape-solution I'm currently using for the Rasp cam) And here are a few screenshots for my Octoprint working. (finally ) I can only recommend Octoprint!

Found a picture from where our printer is standing on. A white desk in wood. (I already got rid of the blue tape for PLA, no worries people! )

I mostly print on 30mm/s to 50mm/s (I like high quality and I have patience ) and travel speed 250mm/s (like recommended by many forum members here). Should I change anything to get less beeps? I got the retraction sounds with Gcodes from Cura (new & old versions) and the new program I started using : Simplify3D. I noticed it's more beeping with gcodes from Simplify3D but it's not a huge difference compared to Cura gcodes.

I'll check, keep you posted

We have Spotify with Sonos in our office but still

it's the sound of the motor i think that's beeping probably no way to turn this off?

Hey guys, My UM2 is located at my office. In general the UM2 is quite silent so I won't complain. But I was wondering, is there a way to turn of the "beep" when the machine is retracting?

Ik merkte nu pas het NL forum op, handig Anyway, ik vroeg mij af hoe dicht de nozzle eigenlijk tegen het printbed moet komen bij de calibratie? Mijn ervaringen leert mij dat de nozzle beter ietsje verder van het printbed kan staan dan dat je het echt met een dun papiertje tracht te calibreren? Ik zag trouwens in de support sectie van UM dat ze een karton kaartje gebruiken om wat resistentie van de nozzle te voelen. Ik gebruikte tot op heden 80gr papier, maar dat is precies té dun om perfect te calibreren... Ik gebruik nu business kaartjes van de mezelf en het resultaat bij het printen is een pak beter. Hiervoor ramde mijn nozzle door de prints en werd het soms een pudding bij het printen van multiple objects. wat zijn jullie bevindingen hierin?

mooi initiatief idd!

Ik heb de beste ervaringen met Colorfabb filamenten, ze zijn iets duurder dan de andere merken maar de merk je duidelijk in je prints ook. De combinatie met een Olsson block waarbij je nozzles kunt gebruiken per soort filament vind ik super handig.

Geef zeker ook de PLA en andere filamenten van Colorfabb een kans. Ik heb hier de mooiste resultaten met tot op heden....

Awesome tips, thanks a lot. About the first layer height. When I print at 0.1 quality, then the first layer height should be 300% to fit a 0.3mm first layer height (like my settings in Cura). It was default 200% in Simplify3D, I changed it to 300%. Is that ok?

I have been using Cura since the start but I bought Simplify3D last night. At the first look the program looks awesome. I'll keep you posted of my experiences with this slicer.

The only explanation I could give was also that the bowden tube was not perfect pushed in the teflon coupler... But weird it first printed 50 hours without a problem... Anyway, I replaced the bowden and cleaned the rest and it's working perfect again. Thank god I got replacement parts

Hey guys, I was printing the low friction spool (I love this design and idea!) https://www.youmagine.com/designs/low-friction-um2-spoolholder Printed the first parts and all went perfect this week. The first parts really looked like a charm. I was proud of the result. Today I started to print the last items for the spool holder (excited!), but then it went wrong. I saw the print was going wrong from the start. So I decided to open up my precious again and after "removing material" and removing the bowden tube, I noticed this : everything was flooded with filament : I have no explanation for this.... I sticked to the same settings (205°/60° and colorfabb (standard white) PLA) and made no changes. Thank god I ordered many spare parts (teflon couplers, bowden tube, nozzles, ....) in the webshop of DidierKlein so I could replace all the flooded items and my printer is working again now. But what went wrong this time? This is starting to become expensive.

I was planning to buy an Ultimaker 2 extended too, but I'll wait a few months to make sure I don't miss the new one. (in case they release some new stuff) Again, if they are smart marketeers @Ultimaker they give an Olsson block for free with the UM2 :-)

Make sure the bowden tube is pressed deep enough in the hot end isolator coupler, at least 1mm

This is really awesome!

I'm using the Volumetric version, is that ok?