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Torgeir

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Posts posted by Torgeir

    Unsolvable ER05 + Stuck in Factory Reset Startup

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted · Edited by Torgeir
    Additional text.

    Hi @FancyboyGinswillington,

     

    I've come to think about a failure I got on my UM2E+.

    Got the same indication as you had in the beginning.

    In order to get the printer working, I had to re switch the power switch sometimes several times to have it working..

    One day this was not possible, -just as you describe.

    Anyway, after some fault tracing I found that the 24 VDC power relay was not working.

    So first thing, check that this relay is delivering power to all stepper drivers and to the heaters.

    If this one fails, the failure you have will be the same.

     

    I'll think the power supply switching circuits is more or less the same in all PCB versions of UM2 series (except Connect).

     

    Maybe this could be your problem.

     

    Good luck.

     

    Torgeir

     

    Edit: Forgot your random question.

    I'm never afraid of this as I have installed two fans (2 * 12) VDC in series, which keep the PCB "cold". But you have a good point there .. 🙂

     

     

    • Like 1

    Unsolvable ER05 + Stuck in Factory Reset Startup

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted · Edited by Torgeir
    Added info.

    Hi @FancyboyGinswillington,

     

    Does the Z stepper move at all?

    I would do a factory reset first.

    Also the stepper driver might be the one failed.

    If you have the PCB with "the" original five stepper drivers (the extra extruder E2), it might be possible to redict the Z using this "free" E2 driver.

    (There is a complete wiring for this UM2 to be used, -as you're familiar with electronics..)

     

    Thanks

    Torgeir

     

    Edit: If you measure the voltage at the other side of the R111, you will see the switching voltage for PA7. If this voltage is zero all the time due to a short in the cap, then it is easy. ref: @gr5.

    So not needed to pull off the Cap.

     

    Good luck.

     

     

    Need help. About to throw this S5 out the window..... Motion Controller 200euro reward to who can fix it.

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Hi Eric,

     

    Greg already guided you and sure this will/should (?) be an easy fix.

    Here is a link to a site in Sweden, giving details about how to release those small pins.

     

    https://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide

     

    Just roll down a little and you'll find the same type of connector, but here only 2 pin -just the same locking type and series.

     

    Anyway, good luck.

     

    Torgeir

     

     

    • Like 1

    UM3 Firmware roll back from 5.3.0

    in Firmware

    Posted

    Hi @SilverDynamic,

     

    I doubt this is an error due to firmware update, -but this very much looks like a faulty forward fan (the one cooling both nozzle "cold" end).

    If this fan stop, due to collected filament stringing blocking the fan or due to an electrical issue.

    The heat creep up into the upper tube and softening the filament to early. This issue block/reduce the feeding and will lead to under extrusion that finally may stop all feeding..

     

    This is a known issue.

     

    Good luck

    Thanks

    Torgeir

    "Fluffy" Prints

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted

    On 10/28/2021 at 11:35 PM, UALib3D said:

    Does anyone know why I am getting this weird effect on my prints? I am using the exact same settings, and same print on a different ultimaker 3 and am not having this issue. It seems like the only thing that could be the issue is something with the printer itself. I've done almost every calibration, bed level, swapped printcores, checked to see if the fans are working. The temp was at 200 C for PLA which is what I use for the other U3 printers. It looks almost like the PLA "rises" and then the nozzle pushes it down, and squishes it over and over. It just looks fluffy. Again, I have the same exact cura settings on another U3 and it comes out perfectly fine. 

    squish.PNG

    Hi @UALib3D

     

    You've already got good advice from @gr5 here, -so I'll just add something more..

     

    This is quite interesting, first I noticed the brownish color on the front (inlet side of cooling fan) that tell a story?

    This color indicate high temperature, a black debris just in front of the printed object and finally the nozzle in the middle of the print.  All this indicate too high temperature to me. How does your print head look from below?

     

    So, -inside the head there is a control PCB (printed circuit board)and this board also include the precision amplifiers for both print cores.

    Say that no1 print core amplifier by some reason say that the temperature is to low, then the control circuit will increase the temperature as high the error signal tell.

    If this is the problem, it would not help to change (swap) the print cores.

    You may also use an infra red temperature sensor in order to check if the temperature is correct.

     

    A better close up of "all" sides of your model may give more info about the problem.

    Also try to turn the model 45 deg to see how this work..

     

    Good Luck

     

    Thanks

    Torgeir

     

     

    Solid Walls With Low Or No Infill, And No Top. Please Help!

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted

    Hi @Reddley

     

    Great Readdley.

     

    Maybe you should try the "new" version of Cura, the Cura Arachne Beta, still an experimental version -but this version handle the layer width much better.

    There is some issues with it, but think it will work well for your model and give you some good prints..

    You can use your project file from Cura 4.11.0 and see how it goes in Cura Arachne Beta.

     

    You'll find it here:

    https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360018439500-Ultimaker-Cura-Arachne-engine-beta-version

     

    Good luck.

     

    Thanks

    Torgeir

    • Like 1

    Solid Walls With Low Or No Infill, And No Top. Please Help!

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted

    Ok., just loaded your model into Cura (4.11.0) and used my printer (an UM2E+) with default setting "Normal 0.15 mm".

     

    With this default setting the model comes out fine with normal infill and top/bottom as it should be..

    So this problem seems (to me) to be some setting "confusing" Cura.

     

    I'll try to tweak a little around with your profile, may take some time..

     

    Thanks

    Torgeir

    • Like 1

    Solid Walls With Low Or No Infill, And No Top. Please Help!

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted

    Hi @Reddley

     

    This was weird, looks like the infill in the wall is mixed with a solid layer (top or bottom?).

     

    1) When the walls are printed it start with outer and inner walls layers then infill are done normally and a new layer start.

     

    2) The outer and inner walls starts as above, but instead of continue with infill -it start a top (or bottom) layer.

     

    3) The outer and inner walls starts as above, this time normal infill -and continues on like this every other layer.

     

    Hmm, have to say that I've sever seen this before -just wondering if this is a new function in Cura -or is it a bug?

     

    Hi @GregValiant, can you share some light in here?

     

    Torgeir

     

     

    • Like 1

    Prime blob knocked down (Cura/UM3)

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted

    Hi there,

     

    Prime Blob is found in Cura under "Build Plate Adhesion".

    It's normally hidden, but go to Preference then select "Cura Settings" and next press settings.

    Write "Prime Blob" in the search window.

    Here you'll see that "Prime Blob" is selected by default, so just deselect it here.

     

    Thanks

    Torgeir

    How to correct big gaps in skin in Cura

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted · Edited by Torgeir
    Correction of text.

    Hi there.

     

    Don't we forget an important "detail" here, -that we're also using carbon fiber rods along the entire wing, and that this is also used in the tail section and the rest of the hull (air frame) -when necessary.

    This reinforces the entire "aircraft" and maintains the needed flexibility.

    Also, a horizontal printed wing will be stronger, -but suffer for the aerodynamic shape..

     

    Just some thoughts.

     

    Torgeir

     

     

    Replace or Repair?

    in Third party products & modifications

    Posted

    Hi @CalvinCR

     

    If there is any 3D printer there is worthy to repair, -it's for sure an UM2E+!

     

    So let's see the pictures of the damages and also a picture of the mother board.

     

    There's just four 8mm shafts and two 6mm shafts to change. But those shafts can take many thousands of work hour before any need to change.

     

    Shafts pulleys and belts is standard parts in the robot industries -so it is easy to find.

     

    How many hours have this printer been printing? 

     

    Thanks

    Torgeir

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