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Torgeir

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Posts posted by Torgeir

    Small zits and gaps using Cura

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted

    Hi @JSched,

     

    Never had any feedback on this one, so I do not know, however -using the "gcode file" and view it in Cura will actually give you a "real" picture of how your object will lock like when printed!

     

    PS. You need to tell Cura to be able to view the "gcode files" in the "setup settings" -when installing Cura.

    If you have not done this, you'll have to reinstall the version of Cura you're using and tell Cura that you want to be able to view "gcode files" as well.

     

    This is the important message in here.

     

    Happy 3D printing.

     

    Torgeir

     

     

     

     

    Inconsistent layers on UM2+

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted

    Hi @elnadav12,

     

    Been away for some times..

     

    Just wonder if your nozzle is just too big or maybe to much worn?

    As you've changed parts in order to any remove mechanical play(?). This lines might move slightly in and out due to worn out -or too big nozzle size. Have a look at this -I'll assuming you're using a standard size 0.4 mm. 

    However, your nozzle tip looks "some" worn to me (see last picture).

     

    Good luck.

     

    Thanks

    Torgeir

     

     

    UM2: Where to order PT100 SMD for heat bed?

    in Third party products & modifications

    Posted

    Hi @oskars

     

    This is my first reply in here -after some time abroad..

     

    You should go here:

    https://www.elfadistrelec.no/en/platinum-smd-temperature-sensor-50-150-pt100-jumo-906125-pcs-1503-00/p/17668874

     

    This is Elfa, a great electronic dealer in Scandinavia.

     

    You'll need a PT100 in SMD version 2 mm length.

     

    Just search/order for this type no: PCS 1.1302.1  

     

    This is a SMD PT100 with temp span from -50 to 150 deg C.

     

    Regards

     

    Torgeir

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Huge underextrusion?

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Hi Maarten,

     

    This is not the easiest thing to print for sure. 🙂

    A spool of though PLA with no seal for some time -may have attracted water.

    When printing a filament with too much water, the flow can vary widely and can sometimes be spit out.

    Such filament need to be dried for some time, so I'll assume that a fresh roll of TPLA will do the trick..

    I'm using a food drier to dry out water from such affected filament.

    I'm also storing filament rolls into a sealed storage box, containing silica bags and a blue tooth moisture meter.

    Have several boxes like this and working very well.

     

    Good Luck

     

    Thanks

    Torgeir

     

    Huge underextrusion?

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Hi @Flutelab,

     

    welcome in here!

     

    When I first look at the picture you added, I'd realized that Cura is set to an UM3 printer, -not an UM S3!

    So first, configure -select an UM S3 printer and things might look better..

     

    Anyway, we do not know the object you're trying to print, so please save the "project file" and attache it here, then "someone" can have a look at your problem and give you some advice if needed.

     

    Just go to; "file", then select save "project" and attach it here.

     

    Thanks

     

    Torgeir

     

     

     

     

    • Like 1

    UM2: Under extrusion

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Hi @rowiac,

     

    I do not think this is the one, -but "maybe" a previous version of the version I've tried to upload..

     

    However, the version of this UM2 duct I'd uploaded above was wrong, - so I've replaced it with the correct one that a "bit" more "aerodynamic" shaped..

    PS. I've an UM2E, but this duct fit all versions.

     

    Thanks

    Torgeir.

    Bed Temp Sensor ER02

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Hi @kupfeli,

     

    The heat bed is a floating heater element, so no need to select polarity here. Also, the text mean input 24 V with current (needed minimum) 7.5 Amp.

     

    The PT100 (platinum sensor) is also a floating "resistor", -so neither this connection is polarity required.

     

    As you ordered all stuff for the bed, why not just change all?

     

    In the past, there was "some" problem with the connection of the high power wires to the bed. There was a few problem with the bed sensor PT100, that's not much of a problem anymore.

     

    But for folks using this "exotic" high temperature filament, things really put those components to the the edge and may expect some more error as shorter life span for those items is sure to be seen.

     

     

    Hope this help.

     

    Thanks

    Torgeir

     

    • Thanks 1

    UM2: Under extrusion

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted · Edited by Torgeir
    Wrong duct uploaded, replaced to correct file.

    Hi @my3DBr,

     

    I've been looking inside here for this spacer (fan duct), -but by some reason this posting is gone.

    However, I have the gcode file (for an UM2) printer.

    It's printed at 205 deg. C. with a 0.4 mm nozzle and using PLA. (Sliced with Cura 2.3.1 I'll think).

     

    The file is attached here:

     

    Edited: Wrong duct was previously uploaded here, sorry folks..

     

    Here is the correct one:

     

    UM2E_Duct.gcode

     

     

     

    Thanks

    Torgeir

    My never-ending battle with the stepper motor "click"

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted

    Hi @flashphilm,

     

    welcome in here.

    What you describe here is "kind of" typical if your feeder "stepper current" setting is to lo (normal current setting here is 1250 mA). When it come to a certain tension the stepper suddenly cannot hold the load anymore and when the stepper motor releases, the built-up pressure in the bowden pipe will act as a compression spring, so that the stepper motor loses many steps backwards. This means that you get low extrusion, because the pressure needed to provide the necessary extrusion suddenly disappears.

     

    (Based on the fact this have been an ongoing issue over the years in your UM2..) 

     

    Another alternative are to slow down the printing speed, cause this will not ask for this "high" demand from the feeder.

     

    Build your own gear box for your UM2.

    A couple of very effective upgrade is to build a belt geared feeder using the same feeder unit (the black box) holding the knurled feeder wheel on it's own shaft 5 mm including a 32 (teeth) pulley that's also holding two bearings. 

    On the new stepper motor(200 step/rev) requested you'll need a 16 (teeth) pulley (5 mm) plus a belt (same as the short one used on the X / Y stepper motors).

     

    The above is what I'm using. Of course, printed my own designed gearing house including a release handle to make ease feeding the filament past the feeder unit.

    There is also another feature I'm using, - turning the feeder unit upside down. This will make the feeder to grab the filament on the inside of the "looped filament" arriving from the roll. This will increase the efficiency of the feeder system due to less friction.

    Using this method, you will obtain a 2:1 gear that's double the torque with no need to change the firmware..

    This is a very cheap way of improving your old UM2..

     

    There is several other geared units around, so just find the one for you.

     

    However, you may also upgrade by using the "UM2+" versions new feeder - this require a change in your firmware.

    If you go for the full upgrade to "UM2+ Kit", including an Ollson block (w 4 different nozzles) plus a spacer to replace the compression spring, two new 6 mm axes and the new feeder.

    Ofc., this kit also including a new stepper motor for the feeding unit -and last the plus sign to mark your printer UM2+.

     

    Just my thoughts.

    The choice is all yours.

     

    Thanks

    Torgeir

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    • Like 1

    S3 not printing as expected

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted · Edited by Torgeir
    More text.

    Hi @evogas,

     

    Welcome in here.

    At first glance, -it looks like the preparation of the glass plate (heat bed) is not "cleaned"/prepared properly.

    Parts of the bed may have some issues that's reduced the fixture to the bed.. The bed cleaning is "super" important!

    But, -It's really difficult to say anything more about your problem, as no other info is given -but the picture.

     

    You should save this "object" as a project file, this will produce a file "-------.3mf" that's show your printer -plus setting (in Cura), filament type and the object you're printing.

     

    Sure post it here..

     

    I'm sure someone will have a look at it.

     

    Thanks

     

    Torgeir

     

     

     

    Problem with raised letters

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted

    Hi there,

     

    this is interesting, I've looked into this for some time and can see this is a panel made for an air craft "simulator" or maybe an "experimental" aircraft?

     

    Those tiny letters should really need a 0.25 nozzle in order to print nicely.. But would not this letters be more easy to print if they are immersed in the panel?

     

    If you're using black filament for the panel you can add white paint into the letters and make them more visible.

     

    Also, you should try the last version of Cura (4.13 Beta), as it print this kind of object much better.

     

    This HUD panel is much easier to print than the "Audio -select" panel. As Greg "says", there is a little tuning to do, but look much better now, great progress.

     

    Way to go..

    Good luck.

     

    Thanks

    Torgeir

    e3d v6 upgrade getting thermal sensor error on my Ultimaker 2

    in Third party products & modifications

    Posted

    Hi @danz409,

     

    Well, this one do not fit you printer very well.  You'll need a 24 V heater and this "thermistor" is not as accurate as the PT100 platinum thermistor. (This is the one used in UM2).

     

    The better choice would be to upgrade to "the Olsson block".

    You could use the same heater and temp sensor as on an standard UM2, well if the wires is not ruined.?

     

    And sure the firmware need to be changed for the E3d kit.. I bought this kit in Japan, just because it was cheap, -but I'll never going to install this on my UM2+.

     

    Good luck

    Thanks

    Torgeir

     

     

     

    UM2: Under extrusion

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Hi @oskars,

     

    Not a problem at all 🙂..

     

    I do not think your new fan mount create any problem here.

     

    What we're seeing here is "kind of" typical for a standard UM2 printing this model for "filament flow test".

     

    The problem might be a reduced diameter where the coupler meet the flange of the Olsson block, so if the torque is a little to hard -the pressure and "some" high temperature may lead to squeezing this critical part of the coupler.

     

    If you try to feed the filament by pushing it by hand, it should feed easily, if not check the coupler.

     

    Check the coupler passage and the nozzle/housing for "old" collected debris (by using atomic pull). 

     

    The tension of the special steel nut, holding the nozzle and delivering cooling to the upper part of the extruder.

    Tip: (Put a little marker on this "special nut" and the base plate so you can check that the nut stay in place.)

     

    You also need to use copper paste (to improve the heat transfer) where this nut connect to the base plate of the aluminum "house" containing the cooling radiator.

     

    You've to screw this nut until you feel it just met the stop, then turn it a quarter of turn more (90 deg.).

    This is what I'm using, -sure I print regularly at +255 deg., C.

     

    There is a little spacer, that can be printed an installed to space up the aft cooling fan from the aluminum rib. This little "modification" really improve the flow through the radiator. Yes, I'm been using this from day one.

     

    Another thing you can do, is to install the black feeder the reverse way, yes turn it 180 deg. This will make your filament go the wrong way, but this can be corrected by swapping two off the wires at the stepper motor connector.

    This will move the grooved groove from the outside to the inside of the bent filament that runs through the bowden tube. The result of this is less friction, that's reduce the force needed to feed the filament.

     

    Since you did not upgrade the feeder unit, this might help to get it working again.

     

    That's a bit to do, -but will "normally" work..

     

    Good luck

    Thanks

    Torgeir.

     

    Ps. I've been writing about all this before, I've to look around a bit.

     

     

     

     

     

     

    UM2: Under extrusion

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Hi @oskars & @GregValiant,

     

    Well, thanks for the invitation.. 🙂

     

    First, I would not use "PET" as -a first material to refer too after all this modifications.

    Just use the good (old) PLA as reference for testing in general..

    You still have an UM2 that's upgraded, -but it's still not an UM2+ (as your feeder is still the original one)!

    So your E-step should NOT be changed, you should use 282, as you have not changed to the UM2+ "feeder". OK.?

     

    This is just my "briefly" thoughts.

     

    Thanks

     

    Torgeir

     

     

     

    Prints starting to high?

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted

    Hi @GregValiant,

     

    I'll think you "somehow" hit the nail here, -as (most of) all those new printers want to use Cura as a slicer.

    With your first printer, fighting the problem of finding/selecting the right firmware -might be a though task to perform for people with their first 3D printer.

     

    Torgeir

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