burdickjp

Are you running the Ultimaker 2 board found on newer UMO+s or the older UMO board? I'm looking to get marlin 1.1 on my UMO+ with the newer Ultimaker 2 board.

The difference between the E3d v6 1.75 mm and E3d lite6 1.75 mm is shown in this picture: On the v6 there's a PTFE tube which goes through the heat sink and stops in the heat break. On the lite6 that PTFE tube goes all the way down into the heat block and touches the nozzle. If you're looking for reliable PLA printing, the lite6 is probably preferable. The good news is they're interchangeable.

Is this an early UMO with the original board? http://reprap.org/wiki/Ultimaker's_v1.5.7_PCB A newer UMO+ with the UM2 board? Mine has the newer UM2 PCB.

I was getting segfaults running Cura AppImages on Fedora 26. I started with the latest at the time 2.6.2 and then tried 2.6.1 and 2.6.0. I was getting the same segfault. Installing the libglvnd-devel package fixed them. Thank you!

I'm going to argue that is not technically a PTFE liner, as it doesn't drop all the way into the heater block. E3D sells a hot end with a PTFE liner all the way down to the heater block, called the lite6. The picture you reference does show an advantage of running E3D hardware, though. It's easy to switch between 1.75 mm filament and 3 mm filament, if you so desire. I printed a single benchy with the included 3 mm Ultimaker filament before switching my UMO+ to E3D hardware and have been running 1.75 mm filament ever since. I haven't had any PLA problems with my E3D hardware, but that may be because I'm running 1.75 mm filament and it IS constructed differently than the 3 mm hot end.

I ran my UMO+ once before switching it to an E3D V6 hot end and E3D titan extruder. I wasn't very happy with the hot end mounts available at the time, so I adapted the Prusa i3 MK2 design. The Prusa does a decent job of packaging print cooling compactly, I think. I don't think anyone can argue with the print quality they've been able to achieve with a wide variety of materials. This uses a 5015 form factor fan for the print cooling fan. I got two on Amazon relatively cheaply. I used the fan that came from E3D for hot end cooling. I printed this using E3D Edge, but I'll probably reprint it in ColorFabb HT. It was a slow process because I was printing on the Ultimaker using another mount, tearing it down to check fitment, making changes, and then putting it back together to print again. I got rather good at printing Edge without cooling! I will be making some changes, but it's functional as it is now. STLs and OpenSCAD source is available in a gitlab repo: https://gitlab.com/burdickjp/UltimakerOriginalPlus_E3Dv6 Once I get wiring more permanently installed I'll let you know how it prints with the materials I have available.

Out of curiosity I looked at the numbers for ColorFabb XT to compare to ColorFabb XT CF20, and they use different test standards. http://colorfabb.com/files/TDS-carbon-en.pdf http://colorfabb.com/files/amphora_pds_en.pdf I'm not sure if the methods are comparable, as one is reported as ISO and the other is ASTM. I am, unfortunately, only familiar with ASTM test methods. I should really get more familiar with ISO methods. IF the methods are comparable then it looks like the XT CF20 performs better across the board. I'd need to get out my machine design books and go through the gear calculations to be any more confident than just saying "try it".

3 N m. At 11.5 mm OD that's 289.8 N of force on each tooth (not really, as the OD isn't the pitch diameter, but we'll go with it). That's respectable, but still less than you'd see on 12V power tools. How thick is this metal gear? I'd give ProtoPasta HT CF PLA a try. I'll have to dig into my reference material to give you a GOOD answer, but here's the relevant data for ColorFabb's XT20: http://colorfabb.com/files/TDS-carbon-en.pdf Have you considered printing both gears and switching to a double helical profile? You would be spreading the force over multiple teeth. A single helix gear would introduce axial forces so you'd want a double helical gear.

For M3 hardware you want to use a clearance drill of 3.15 mm or 3.3 mm, depending on if you want a close fit or a loose fit. For prints I prefer 3.3 mm. LittleMachineShop.com has a nice table of drill sizes for different hardware: https://littlemachineshop.com/Reference/TapDrillSizes.pdf

Bummer that you've had such a sucky experience. They engineer a great product. It looks like their documentation is complete, now: http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_on_Ultimaker_2 It includes the necessary firmware changes.