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I print ABS at 225 C myself and that works really well if not perfect (basically) for me. That might be high for PLA. I'd think 200 C for PLA or something around there, but I'm not sure what type of PLA you are using. I print ABS at 225 C (lowest you can go to me personally) I print PC at around 250 C (lowest you can go to me personally) I'd go around the low point of PLA and give that a try for now. I always get problems when I print at higher temperatures with any filament. Usually on the lower side of the filament is where I get the best results myself.

It would be nice to make my own polycarbonate filament if not recycle the polycarbonate filament I have left over from failed prints. Some of them are around $2,000 (too expensive). I would have to make my own polycarbonate filament at that point to try to recoup that kind of money ($15-$25 per KG at most probably from recycling alone). It would take me forever to recycle my bad or broken prints to make that money back especially after I learn more and more myself on how to print near perfection every time. Anyone know how to recycle bad or broken 3D prints for cheap? Looking to spend about $500 max.

I wouldn't want to laser cut it. Just wondered if it could be 3D printed or if anyone had tried. Maybe metal 3D printers can do that one day.

I kind of want to do something like this myself.

I did find the right video (the microwave part wasn't that long though). I can't have flex and PP appears to flex. --- The glass transition was the same for the other filament. I doubled checked the website and that was right.

I didn't get myself anything for Christmas and/or my Birthday (which happened recently). I decided to treat myself finally and finally figured out something I'd really want rather than spending useless money on something. I just picked up 3000 grams (3 Kg) of Polymaker PC-Max - True White for about $150 (roughly with tax included). I would of paid $70x4 (750 grams each - .75 Kg) or about $300 (tax and such) in total for the same amount. I looked through everything to and it was the same 110C rating for heat as well and I think the 112-113 glass transition to as well was the same. Plus the strength was there and I read a review to as well that said just that. It's also easy to print with which will be basically the same the ultimaker PC White. It looks basically like it's the same material. That tip was great thanks. I got 3000 grams for $150 and that tip saved me $150 roughly. Glad you said that to me and thanks again. Couldn't find the video.

Just wondering if anyone has tried to 3D print an ultimaker. Buy all the parts and such online.

I don't need the impact strength. I need it be able to handle heat. My new test is around 1:10 minutes at 210F (what I need it to handle alone). I create molds and such myself. Thanks, I will check out the polymaker polymax

I have wondered about this kind of stuff myself to as well. Not a fan of PVA and I don't think it's great to print with alone. I have to use breakaway now since PC White (what I use) isn't compatible with PVA.

This is what I did myself. I didn't want to risk anything. https://fbrc8.com/collections/ultimaker-3-spare-parts/products/print-head-assembly-um3x You just replace this part. metal rods and tubes should come out easily enough. You don't have to order from them. Sounds like he left the 3D printer go for the weekend at work. It's apart of the risk with something like that alone. That's if OP can't fix his 3D printer.

I've had this happen to me. I had to replace the head since it was ABS plastic which was too much of a pain to remove. I've never seen it get that bad though mine was like 1/5th that at most if not 1/10th. If you go this route try to salvage anything in case you need it later on. BB - 0.4 nozzle looks like it can be pulled and saved and maybe the AA one to as well.

Polycarbonate to me personally, but you have to use breakaway.

https://ultimaker.com/materials/abs ABS is somewhat dangerous to print with. 85C - max temp it can stand or around 185F Very difficult to figure out how to print with. https://ultimaker.com/materials/pc PC is safer than ABS from what I understand. You only have to watch out for BPA. Plus much of this was around water or liquids in plastic bottles. I don't use PC or Polycarbonate for drinking anything out of it to as well. I figure for the most part I won't have to really worry about much. 110C (112-113C - glass transition) PC is much easier to print with as I'm finding out. Just got done with my first print. ABS is a hassle. Dangers alone of ABS (one website I read even gave it a cancer warning.) - Plus it's not easy to print and can't handle high temps for the most part like PC can. If you can pay $20 more or so I recommend PC over ABS already. It's easier to print, handles higher temps, and is much safer than ABS. I had no problems with it and it came out perfect after having no experience with the settings other than coming over from ABS for the most part. I didn't even know what print settings to go with. Print Settings - turned out perfect on the first try. ABS was such a hassle to figure this out plus the dangers to as well of printing with ABS alone. Print Temp: 270C Bed Temp: 100C Enclosure I think the dimensional stability might be key with PC alone, but I'm not sure yet. Only downside I'm finding is you have to use Breakaway (can't use PVA) and that's experimental still. Which isn't that big of a deal and I figure I won't have to deal with that as much since I don't have a warping issue with regular prints even. Not sure on this one for now. Update: Material Test - PC White Vs. Abs White First two images 1st test - high heat - 210F water - regulated 2nd test - impact resistance (hammer both sides - 5x each side) The results below. 1st test - high heat - 210F water - regulated PC White - 35 minutes x2 or 1:10 minutes (stopped here since I figured nothing would happen for a few hours at least). Vs. ABS White - 30 minutes (it was done after 30 minutes). I didn't remove the brim completely on the left one. I kind of just left it there for this so that's why it's kind of uneven. Figured it wouldn't do anything in the test realm other than kind of just look uneven or not picture perfect. PC White was fine after 1:10 minutes at 210F (Fahrenheit - yes you read that right). ABS White was done after 30 minutes (massive warping issues). Material Test 2 - impact resistance 2nd test - impact resistance (hammer both sides - 5x each side) - PC White did well and ABS White was gone. ABS White is on the left for this image. PC White is still flat for the most part and/or is dimensionally stable. ABS white is finished no matter what to me personally. PC White - $70 ABS White - $50 PC White can still be used since it's dimensionally stable after everything is said and done (it's not easy to even bend it even though it cracked a couple of times), but it would leak if you used any liquids or anything like that. The 3rd image shows were it cracked a couple of times. I'm really surprised with the results of this all and I can never go back to ABS White after switching to PC White (finally switched yesterday). I don't mind paying $20 more for something that works incredible and/or extremely well (from what I've seen myself). PC White is also easier to 3D print with to me personally (I have an enclosure myself). ABS White had warping issues, but if the conditions are right for PC White it prints just fine and is even easier than ABS White. Both are Ultimaker materials. side note(s): The test isn't perfect (basically or close enough). This is more or so what I need it for myself. What I use it for... The heat is trapped on the inside (up to an hour or so usually) of the plastic pieces and it has to keep it's shape. Plus warping issues at higher temps or temps up to 190F-200F (185F-190F max usually) with ABS White alone. Heat resistance for the inside and impact resistance for the shape as well dimensional stability. 1. Heat Resistance 2. Impact Resistance 3. Dimensional Stability

I print with ABS myself. https://ultimaker.com/materials/abs Withstands temperatures of up to 85 °C I had problems with ABS myself. 85C (185F) means I can't go over 185F. The max I needed was around 190F. I usually go 170-180F (max), but it was definitely close at times due to the 185F max temp range. Switching to PC though (tomorrow I might change out the filament if not the 30th). https://ultimaker.com/materials/pc Polycarbonate - PC has the ability to withstand 110C if not 112C/113C It's not the easiest to print from the looks of it like ABS (ABS isn't easy to print, but I did just fine) and I think you need an enclosure, but it's safer than ABS (ABS is kind of harmful - has a warning) and has a higher heat resistance than most 3D plastics and/or filaments. Glass transition at 112 - 113 C 110C alone is 230F - I don't go over 190F-200F so that works perfectly for me for now plus I have comfort room myself. side note: you need breakaway and that's experimental if you go with PC. PC won't work with PVA from what I understand. https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/22231-how-to-print-with-ultimaker-pc Ultimaker PC is not an easy-to-print material because it tends to warp and delaminate if the printing environment and settings are not perfect. From the original pc link. Flame retardant characteristics

Ultimaker 3 - ABS (I have to use the plastic cage you get on the side or else the ABS will warp). Printing Temp: 225 C Build Plate Temp: 80 C Print Speed: 75 mm/s Fan Speed: 2% Layer Height: 0.1 mm Infill: 100% Brim and Z Hop when retacted Use the glue stick to as well that came with mine (very thin even layer). --- Maybe this will help. IDK if it will for you, but maybe it will help. I print all the time and this works perfectly (basically perfect) for me. --- ABS is not easy to print to as well. I've had problems with ABS myself. It's not just plug in the USB for the most part like PLA and you are ready to go. --- Side note: switching to PC after this due to the dangers of ABS (mostly well ventilated area though) for now.

I'm not going to use ABS White anymore myself. I'm switching to PC White for the ultimaker. It's 110C and that's just enough to keep me going for anything under 200 degrees Fahrenheit I want to say.

I start to get warping problems around the 190F/190F+ range. I know regular ABS is supposed to be about or around 105C/221F, but I'm wondering for the standard ABS white plastic. I use the ABS (white) for stuff that gets to temps of 170-180F for a short interval of time. It works just fine between the 170-180F range. ----- Anyone know the glass transition point of ABS white for the ultimaker 3?

READ FIRST BEFORE REPLYING (I no longer require assistance and I fixed my problem from taking a screen from another Ultimaker 3 I have that needed parts different than the screen itself). Note: - This thread can be closed since I fixed and resolved the problem. It took about 20 minutes to fix if not 30 minutes at most. It was actually super fast and super easy (I've been building computers for years and such so results may vary). I Just had to pop out the dial that turns when you are making your selection then remove the nut then pop out the dial part as well as pop out the bottom piece then unplug the cables and deal with some screws. It seems kind of complicated, but it was actually super easy for the most part when it comes to hardware for tech or technology. There was a few processes and maybe a bit slight of complication to it or difficulty for that matter. I have another Ultimaker 3 that needed a part if not a couple of parts at least. The parts required for the other Ultimaker 3 had nothing to do with the screen. I took out the board on that Ultimaker 3. Once I had done that I brought it over to my other Ultimaker 3 on the table where I had it sitting and just installed it really fast. It works perfectly now (for the most part). The screen is basically brand new again or hasn't had any problems yet for the most part. It works absolutely perfect now. ----- I just have to buy the part again for the other Ultimaker 3 since I removed it. Which means I still have to spend money, but I at least have one functional Ultimaker 3 from two different Ultimaker 3s that weren't working properly so I can't complain on that for now. This is just to tell everyone and to make a note of it in case someone else is having the same problem and I no longer require any help on the issue so no one has to waste their time. I took out the entire board and the screen to as well and replaced it with my other one (board + screen) completely. I made a video showing that it works basically like brand new, but it's used (obviously). I can figure out later if it's just the screen itself or the board, but for now the Ultimaker 3 is working. https://streamable.com/irg9t

Also I think it got hit by a surge, but my surge protector protected it enough (just the screen went). Do you know of a great place to buy and/or have a great place to find a better surge protector for the U3 or Ultimaker 3?

If I were to buy an ethernet cable of 25 feet (roughly) and hook it up to my 3D printer. Would I be able to use that to change out filament on some type of screen (on my computers desktop) as well as print? So I don't have to worry about buying a new screen right now. It prints just fine and works very well still. It's just that I can't see what I'm doing to set up the print or change out the filament and that's it.

My front screen was burned in and now it's dying. I can barely see my front screen display on my Ultimaker 3 now. Anyone know if there is a way to fix this? I can't even change out filament and I can barely print by just remembering where everything is to be able to get the print process set up.