my3DBr

Ok, I’ve read before your exact text about the accuracy issue, the “engineer profile” which seems to solve a lot of people’s problems. I think it is something I must try - but; there is a discussion I would like to bring: every time I need some sort of accuracy depend on a longer printing time is the best solution? Or, will it solve the difference between Y axis and the other two? Let’s say I am using LouBan to edit a mesh of a lumbar spine, and therefore it being a natural element it brings a form that is not “friendly printing format”. I have to cut it in half, the LuBan application automatically does it, inserting a dove for posterior reunion of both pieces. I’m having a very troublesome time fighting to it. I never needed accuracy before, never thought this difference between the Y axis and the other two leave me in a not comfortable situation. But yes. I should do as you said. And thank you a lot for your participation.

This printer was someone’s else before. I did changed pulleys, belts, heat block, feeder. Belts are from robotdigg, pulleys I could not check proof of quality. I’ve just bought pulleys and belts again from one single supplier from UK (Technobots). But if there was to be any problem related to it, the steps should present any kind of deviation, which they don’t. I done all of it with help from a more experienced user, using the officials manuals (which present some errors by the way). If I could travel through time, I would not change the original pulleys and belts, even with hundreds of printing time. I kept them stored and looking at them nowadays they don’t seem in bad shape. The problem was a rusted y axis rusted stepper motor, which I opened and treated. I’ve bought new ones from Pololu but did not changed them - lack of personal energy. It is a difficult printer to work on. And the stepping is not altered. Well, That’s it. Maybe I can just search for a % percentage os compensation on y axis….

Thank you.

Hello @Torgeir. I’ve already done the axis alignment with those tools, I thought could be it. Nothing changed.

Hello guys, Are you still around? I have a UM2E and I’m getting consistently bigger dimensions in Y than in X, no matter what I’m printing. Circles that needs precision (like bearings) como slightly oval, I can see it in that little gap. Squares, Cubes, everything. A calibration 20mm cube is consistently giving me 20.1 on X and 20.5 on Y. A rectangle 60x40mm on X gives 60.15 while on Y I get 40.5. A 8mm cylinder gives me 8.1 diameter on X and 8.4 on Y. All pulleys ok, belts tensioned. Draft o.2 on Cura, everything basic. PLA 200C on nozzle. Working with horizontal expansion don’t affect results. I installed a needle on the print head, put a good technical ruler on the bed and stepping seems pretty good through all the axis. any clues???

UM2E bondtech DDG feeder, 3D solex heatblock, 0.4 nozzle Basic .2 draft set on Cura, nozzle temp 200. All basic settings.

Hello. I am getting consistent Y axis bigger than X. I get at the calibr. cube 20.1 on X and 20.5 on Y. I've made a testing tool with holes (m3, m4, 22mm, 20mm square and a 8mm cylinder inside a 60mm on X 40mm on Y rectangle) and in every form de Y alignment gets bigger than in X. Deviations are: 60 on X I get 60.15mm 40 on Y I get 40.5 The 20mm square on X 19.56mm and on Y 19.75 The 22mm circle I get 21.40 mm diameter on X and 21.63mm on Y. The 8mm cylinder has a X diameter of 8.1mm and Y 8.4mm. When I try to print a bearing with a higher tolerance it gets visually perceived a oval form. I managed to put a needle in the print head and used a good scale, all steps seem perfect all the way in the axis distances. I think there are 2 controllable variables in play: horizontal expansion and one axis printing bigger than other, but I need to make one of them right so I can approach the other. Can you help me? Maybe a fixed % compensation in one axis and then start to handle horizontal expansion?

That is a good way to think about it. Thank you gr5. As soon as I get some time I'll do it.

I am afraid to get it wrong and ruin the special Teflon - for me from Brazil it is expensive and takes a long long time to arrive… The grate advantage for me is to avoid repetitive maintenance. Aiming to print in PLA and ABS (just bought a door for “enclosure”) although I did not printed ABS yet. So, yes, temps below 300 C. That is what get me: a time proof set.

I’ll send some pics later when I get home.

Appreciated guys. So @gr5 you really think that I have to slice a piece of the Teflon out? Better slice the old PTFE or that brand new modified from 3D Solex? Maybe try it out with the old one (it is in good condition) first?

Thank you for your time @Torgeir. There is one last thing to experiment: the extruder force. I am going to make the @gr5 experiment and give you some feedback. And print or buy said spacer.

Thank you guys. Here is the thing: A. I have calculated de e-steps accordingly, it seems right (at 652.92) - extruding 120mm, seeing what's left etc... B. I am using tinker gnome and the current for E1 is set at 1250ma. C.2) Yes, the tensioner was way up, leaving it's grip soft. Yes, you are right, it seems the filament slips through the bond tech gears making a weird sound that was not the motor skipping steps (although very similar sometimes). I disassembled the extruder to see if I could find something, and I think that due to a high pressure in the Bowden the filament tends to curve and then it dislodge both gears, taking them apart and loosening the pressure making the weird sound. Why am I getting such pressure inside it? 3) I am using the 3D Solex combo I2k insulator + TFT255C PTE Coupler. Brand new. I really did not know I has to cut a peace of the teflon out, since at the 3D Solex site is states "Usage: Unplug PTFE from steel coupler, insert I2K, re-insert PTFE. Finished. Steel coupler must be turned all the way down to block, and only half turn back up allowed for sync in dual setup." And that was it. I screwed the coupler all the way, inserted the insulator, then the new special PTFE. The spring is very compressed - I don't have that spacer, still going with the spring. So as you say, it might be the pressure on that system caused by not cutting a piece oh the teflon, reflecting on a hight pressured extrusion?

So, back to the topic! Just installed the matchless kit and even using the indicated printed torque handle PLA is leaking between the nozzle and heatblock. And I have to print at 225 with PLA otherwise my DDG Bondtech start to skip steps....

It was rustted.

Hi Yesterday I installed the 3DSolex Kit - heater block, 0.4 nozzle, PTK spacer and I2K insulator, original heat cartridge with thermal paste. It states that I can print with a lower temperature but with the same temp than before I am getting heavy skipping steps. I have a UM2E with original extruder stepper motor (0.9º) coupled to a DDG Bondtech via a adapter found on YouMagine. When I installed the DDG I don’t know why I got missing steps also - I could never understand why, since the Bondtech DDG is geared. I’m running the last stable Tinkercad firmware. Any clues? Thank you.

Hello guys, greetings. So, I am using Tinkergnome V17.10.1 (which I believe is the latest stable version) in a UM2 extended upgraded with a Bondtech DDG (with a adaptation piece found on YouMagine). I'm having two problems: 1)Once in a while my Printer inverts all the axis out from the blue, no clues whatsoever why it is happening, I have to factory reset it, and start all over again (and dialing all the steps again); 2) I am using the stock 0,9º extruder stepper motor, and since I installed the Bondtech extruder, depending on the nozzle temp, I get heavy and frequent losing steps. I have a feeling that I was using lower temps incorrectly (for the PLA brand - Brazil, so it's unlikely you would know it). Once I step temps up it gets on track, although I was not able to notice if it is affecting the print quality (dear strings). Any ideas? Is it better to install a newer Tinkergnome software? Thank a lot in advance.

Hello guys. Are you using the latest stable version V17.10.1 or the newest one V19.03.1? Once in a while my UM2 inverts all axis by itself and I have to factory reset it. Does it happens to anyone?

Alguém com alguma luz sobre extrusoras para UM2? Coloquei aquela Sanjiu mas nao esta muito boa...

I've just changed de e steps. Did nothing else, I don't think I am running into any extrusion problems.

Those are not the right ones. I went to the store without checking and bought them wrong. UM2 right ones are SY42STH38-1684A (at least on mine). Ended up buying again

Same problem here. I just acquired an old UM2 Extended with a total of 2km of filament printer. Although it homes correctly, when moving the print heat by hand (with it turned off) the movement in the Y axis jams in two specific point, really hard. Visually I just can't point nothing wrong that could be a reason for it. Any hints or clues? Thank you.

Olá, mais um aqui. JPA, RJ, UM2 Extd. Acabei de pegar usada. Esta agarrando no eixo Y, não consigo identificar o que é. Já alinhei os eixos...