Super_paulie

just to finish off on this guys. I was able to work it out by changing "initial layer line width" down to 90%. I left "filter out tiny gaps" turned on, so i didnt get that bitty top surface but the line width adjustment closed up all the unreachable gaps on that first layer. All in all, happy with a few days of testing things.

as an edit/additional. My 'show face' is the bed-side surface. So the Filter Out Tiny Gaps (FOTG) is only really relevant for the very first layer. Is there any way a setting could be made so that you can control how many layers or at a set height the FOTG activates/deactivates? that would be useful in this situation.

its a step in the right direction though, keep at it! I can confirm that the "Filter out tiny gaps" did indeed close the model as i required. I just didnt understand the function correctly, i miss-understood it as "i will fill in tiny gaps for you", which was my mistake at the end of the day! The model is now very "bitty" on the inner top surfaces, from where the nozzle has had to go along and fill in the hundreds of tiny bits. Its a small price to pay though as the model is still a success. Original print on the left, print with Filter Out Tiny gaps turned off on the right.

just gave it a go. Same profile, different Cura versions... quite the increase in print duration in the Arachne version! 🤣 It does seem to actually lay the material in a way more logical and progressive manner for sure. Once i turn off combing the model time comes down to 9hrs, which is still way beyond what i need right now. Interesting though.

might have answered my own question here. "Filter out tiny gaps". I misunderstood the option and have always had it ticked assuming by filtering out the gaps it was 'filling' them. I'll run this and report back, but still happy to take any suggestions! I'll leave the post up incase it might help others. If it works...

hi guys, thanks to everyone on this great forum, really helped me with issues over the past few years. Maybe someone can help this time 🙂 I am printing what is effectively a grill, a mesh if you like. It comes out great but i do get tiny gaps where i think the nozzle cant reach. Its not over the entire model, but seemingly at random across the board. Does anyone have any ideas on a setting that might be able to compensate for this? I have tried quite a few but frankly its at random as its a bit out of my understanding, probably too many to list so im after someone more knowledgeable than myself! See attached images where you can see the "gap" when zoomed in. When i used to run this model on my old U2+ i used to dial up the level of the bed to give more 'squish' which gave me the result i wanted, all gaps filled with squish! Ultimaker S5 with material station, air manager. Printing on kapton with ABS, 0.4mm core, temperature 225, bed at 105. Thanks guys.

the material station changed materials after the spool ran out. Great I thought, that's the exact reason why we invested in it. So it changed over, no worries there. Then the material didn't make it to the nozzle and it started "printing" again, but obviously with fresh air... What gives? This is kinda the only reason we bought the material station station and the first time it changed over its failed and we lost a 36hr print. Grrr. Didn't see any way to manually wind the material forward so was just stuck in limbo and eventually had to cancel the job. See attached, material got as far as you see in the right hand tube before it started up again.

to jump on this, this "confirm removal" is driving me mad. The printer is in a school so im not able to SSH stuff and really mess with it, but please god id love a feature in the firmware. Every day after a print is done we remove the job asap and then have to sit waiting for the "confirm removal" feature before we can get the next job away. So essentially waiting for the bed to cool only to them immediately heat up again the second the confirm button is pressed. The printer is used during all working hours so the jobs are just lined up. Its a minor gripe but it would make my life a whole lot easier for sure.

its not that its oozing when switching, but leaving fine strings over the void as its putting down the first colour.

quick question guys, i am wanting to pause the S5 when the head goes over to the side to change from one nozzle to the other. My reasoning being that the bottom face is to have text on in a different colour to the surroundings and the first nozzle is leaving slight debris in the void and then the new colour shows that debris as it prints over the top of it. I want to pause the printer, clear the stringers and debris and then let it continue on with the next nozzle colour. I hope that make sense. So basically a pause and bed lowering on extruder switch. Can anyone help me out with a script or gcode for this? thanks guys. Paul

hi guys. I have a description against my project in my digital library but it wont let me remove it. My description previously had job testing info on that is no longer relevant and i dont need a description at all now, but i get this error. Surely i should be able to remove it? Cheers

Sorry on the glare. Basically every print I do on the S5 has this. I only use ABS and kapton is what I need to use (tried all the other options). However it seems to lift the kapton at the edges of the print. It's weird as on my U2+ it doesn't do this... I've tried wet floating the kapton on and also on dry. I assume when the abs cools it lifts the tape with it? Any advice guys? Bed is at the lowest temperature end I can take it for ABS and still adhere. At first I thought it was water boiling under there but happens even when dry applied. Cheers!

I mean waiting an extra 30 seconds to cool down wouldn't have hurt? By the time it's at the far end of the bed the nozzle is cool and its not leaving any melt marks...

Yeah I've tried them all and kapton worked the best by an absolute mile for us when using ABS. No brim to remove, no clean up of the part, done. But now we've upgraded to the S5, well that's kinda snookered by this bed leveling with a blazing hot nozzle 🤷🏼‍♂️

Has anyone developed a workaround or solution to the hot end basically ruining the surface of the kapton when it's doing the auto bed level? You can't turn it off, you can't tell it to wait until the end is cool, what gives? The bed surface is the "show face" of our prints so it's just littered with scars from the auto level. We might have to go back to the U2 unless we can find a solution as this is causing all our prints to be unviable. Not cool as this cost me £10k... Any ideas guys? We use kapton as the prints are ABS and the bed surface/show face has to be perfect.

As a quick fix this works, magnet extensions. Obviously the station isn't sealed like this, but I could potentially make a frame that sits in there.

yeah thats what i have been doing so far, door open. I think i might be able to make (print?) something to prop the door and still allow external spools to feed. Might be an idea, i'll report back with a design if it works.

Has anyone ever successfully combined the material station with an external spool? For example a standard sized spool in the station going to 1 and a large 3kg spool sat externally going to 2? I have a lot of spools that seemingly won't fit in the station and id rather not have to try to re-spool them. I know I'd lose retraction when the core ejects but it seems like it should work? Could likely just sit a full spool in the bay if it has a weight trigger in there. Cheers guys, be interested to know what people have come up with to sort this.

ok scrub that... it works. Just a major network delay or something?

hi guys. Ive been driven daft by the following. We have an S5 with material station. We rarely (never) use material with NFC chips in. So to load in multiple spools of "generic" PLA and have it correspond to actual materials in Cura i have been changing the GUID of new cura profiles to have "Generic PLA Yellow", "Generic PLA blue" etc and they all reside under the "Generic" material on the S5 list. Its annoying but ok. What i really want is to create my own material "Brand" that shows up on the S5 and i can have it correspond to the materials in Cura. I cant for the life of me work out how to create my own brand. I do it in Cura, change the GUID of the materials within it, export it, remove it. Reimport it, but it just wont show as a new brand on the actual machine. Is what im trying to do actually possible? I swear ive seen it happen when i was messing around previously.

Thanks Geet but the dimension are way off now. I didn't expect it to change with acetone but it's no issue really, but I need to polish it somehow. Might try a rotary tool.

Hi guys. I have been "polishing" my ABS parts as the face on show is the "bed side". As the project is like a mesh/grill all the bed facing holes come off the bed with the adhesion material blocking them, in use an ABS puck and acetone. So first I use wire wool to clear the holes and then an abrasive rag to smooth the surface the best I can. I tried to use an acetone cold vapour bath this weekend which worked great to give a nice surface but it totally changed the parts dimensions, see attached, it buckled as the shape changed, it should be flat. Obviously this is no good, so does anyone have any good methods to clean up the bed facing side of ABS? Or should I move to hairspray to adhere you think? Cheers!

Thanks guys. I am content with my original part with my settings. But it was just out of interest on the cooling time. We produce 3 distinctly different products and one of them goes from very large to very small at the turn of a layer. This is the part I was looking at layer time on, but I print towers currently and its good. See attached for the part in question. It's either experiment with a layer time or use these "cooling towers", which I know works. Also GR, this is in ABS and I literally couldn't pull it apart with 2 pliers. I'll have to print a bigger tower to get that leverage.

That is incredibly interesting, thanks for that. Id never have looked at it that way and I enjoyed thinking it over!

Out of interest, would just setting a "layer time" with head lift have any benefits over just printing small towers elsewhere on the bed to generate that time? Cheers!