Slashee_the_Cow

You can do it with a post-processor. If you go to Extensions > Post Processing > Modify G-Code that'll bring up a window with a dropdown box on the left. I have so many scripts installed I can't remember what actually comes with Cura, but there should be one something along the lines of "Display Info on LCD". If you have that one you can either set the top option to "Filename and Layer" so if you can remember what layer your change is on then you can use that. Or I think if you set it to "Display Progress" there's an option to replace the time to completion with the time to next pause.

The home position is defined by the printer's firmware. What I suspect is happening here is that it's another case of how most Ender-3 series printers have a defined build area of 220x220 but the plate itself is actually 235x235 and a lot of custom firmware unlocks most of that, but for whatever reason in your case hasn't updated the home position to middle of the actual bed.
 
Try adding the following at the end of your startup gcode:
G0 F3000 X7.5 Y7.5 ; Total added is 15mm, so move by half of it G92 X0 Y0 ; Tell the printer that here is actually the centre of the bed That's a band-aid solution, but if it works then you can:
a) Be apathetic about it and keep doing that.
b) Create a custom definition file in Cura that accounts for the added area.
c) See if you can adjust the firmware to move the home position.
 
I'm happy to help with b), but for c) you're on your own (I've only ever run stock firmware on my Ender-3s)

Install the Mesh Tools plugin (from the amazingly awesome @ahoeben, who does all the plugins which seem like they should be built into Cura in the first place), then right click your model and go to Mesh Tools > Replace model (you could try Reload model but I'm not sure if it'd work in your situation) and just load your STL again.

It's worth noting that Cura, by default, almost always prints parts of layers in a certain order (IIRC it's support > walls > skin > infill) because each feature type will have the same flow rate, so obviously that affects where it goes.
 
You can submit this as a feature request though and see what the developers have to say.

Okay, so notes on the profile. And I'll warn you now, I'm great at nitpicking, so please don't take it personally:
QUALITY: This isn't necessarily wrong, but your layer height is higher than average, which most people usually use to print quickly, so they use wider lines. Most of the standard profiles I've seen in Cura use a layer height of 0.2mm with a line width of 0.4mm. Setting the initial layer height as higher than the rest of the print is great for bed adhesion, but in this case the difference is so small it's not going to make a salient difference. Using different line widths for infill and support isn't really a good idea without a good reason, especially with differences this insignificant. It means every time Cura changes from support or infill to something else it has to change the flow rate, which is especially bad with a Bowden extruder because it takes a bit of a time for changes to take effect. This can result in overextrusion or underextrusion, and neither of those is a good look (lumps or missing/really thin bits respectively). WALLS: I don't know what sort of hammer you plan on hitting your prints with, but 7 walls is way, waaaaaaaaaay too many, especially on a small print like this. It could be part of your problem at the top, because all of those walls get in the way of the actual design. Even on bigger prints, I usually use 2 walls with an alternate extra wall. Having infill (and not too high a density) is actually your friend! PLA is brittle, so if you have a solid lump of it there's no way to distribute any impact force and it's possible the whole thing can shatter. Infill can absorb some of the impact because there's room for things to move. If you're using a 0.4mm nozzle (come as standard on most printers) you can often get away with 0.26mm as a minimum line width. Lower minimum width = more detail. TOP/BOTTOM: EIGHT TOP LAYERS?!?!!?!?!!?!?!!???? On a print this size, that makes the top about 10% of the total height. Top/bottom layers are like walls: the solution is rarely "more", unless the problem is "I printed a single wall and it shattered when I hit something".  You want your "Z" to look better? Use fewer top layers. Gives details much more room to breathe. At a 0.2mm layer height I usually use four top/bottom layers. If you're going to use 0.26mm layer height that's equivalent to 3, but 4 would still work. Again, this is for anything, regardless of size, and the main problems I've had with strength have been things being too hard to deliberately destroy (like when I've made moulds for gluing stuff together, the mould will inevitably get stuck, so requires forceful removal). Same thing about brittle as I said about walls is true here: the more plastic it has to go through to get to an area that might absorb some impact, the less likely it is to actually reach it. Five bottom layers: nowhere near as egregious, but still overkill, especially at your layer height. They might look pretty similar but Lines is a better top/bottom pattern than Zig Zag, because it adheres to the walls better. It just means that it has to make small, non-retracting travel moves at the end of each line. That's not a bad thing. It's not moving anywhere near far enough to leave a glob behind or anything. INFILL: For best visual quality you should turn off Infill Before Walls and reset Infill Overlap Percentage to its default calculated value (10%). Both of these mean that instead of printing straight walls and filling the area between them with infill, it prints infill (which you're doing wider for whatever reason and the higher overlap percentage will stick out further) which the walls will then form around, meaning the infill pattern will be visible on the outside. 25% infill percentage: higher than I use for most things (20%) but well within an acceptable range so you get a pass on that. MATERIAL: You're underextruding literally everything by setting the flow lower than 100%. It's not uncommon to set things like support interface a bit lower to try and make it easier to remove, but if you feel the need to change all of these, you need to calibrate the E steps on your printer, not fudge it in slicing. You'll get much better results, especially on things like top/bottom where correct flow is important for a smooth finish. SPEED: There's no good reason to change the outer wall speed to the inner walls (or most of the print, really). It's another case of flow rate changes potentially causing defects. Same applies to Top/Bottom speed, Top Surface speed. Yes, slower is good for fine details, in theory. You're not going for fine details here. The letters on the calibration cube are definitely not "fine". Most filament spools will have recommended print settings on them, make sure you follow them (unless you know exactly why you're doing it differently). I say this mostly because I've never seen PLA recommend anything faster than 65mm/s. Acceleration control: 1500mm/s² isn't necessarily bad, but you need to keep an eye on it. I've had a print head accelerate so fast away from a bit of a model that it actually pulled the not-quite-set plastic with it and warped it at a lower speed than that. Jerk control. 13mm/s is WAY. TOO. FRIGGIN. HIGH. It controls how much the speed can instantly change at a corner, and the higher it is, the less accurate your movement is (including the potential of vibrating the printer enough to move the print head a step or two out of place, resulting in layer shift). I usually keep it at 5mm/s, but I'll admit I'm pretty conservative. Personally I've only ever seen bad things happen at over 8mm/s. Think of it like a car with the steering sensitivity turned up 300%: when you reach a corner at speed, it's going to be nearly impossible to make the turn properly and not hit a wall. TRAVEL: If your printer is properly configured, then retracting at a layer change can do more harm than good. You run the risk of underextruding at the end of one layer and overextruding at the start of the next. Or the other way around, depending on how well timed its extrusions are. Again, not something a Bowden extruder is good at. It's also bad for the filament because it's running it back and forth through the gears more and grinding it up. You only need to lower Retraction Prime Speed if you're overextruding after retraction moves. Z hops aren't really needed unless your nozzle is crashing into printed parts when you're moving. And your Z Hop Height is so, so tiny that it wouldn't change that in the slightest, just wear out your Z motor with unnecessary movements of a few steps. COOLING: Actually not bad if you're just printing PLA. If you're going to use other materials you might want to look into using the minimum layer time. SUPPORT: You do realise that one of the ideas of a calibration cube is to see how well it prints without support, right? Support Overhang Angle: A bit conservative IMO, PLA that's being printed properly should be able to stand at least 55° (some of the more daring types even go up to 45°). So not necessarily a bad thing. Support Density: Unless you're having problems with your support not supporting stuff properly, there's no need to increase this from the default. It just wastes filament and time. Just a heads up that if you have Enable Support Floor turned off, if you have support which starts on your model, it's going to be a lot hard(er) to remove without the interface. BUILD PLATE ADHESION: There is absolutely no reason whatsoever Skirt/Brim Minimum Length needs to be that high. Not only is it a waste of filament and time (especially when you're using multiple layers, which I'll get to) but if you place things on the wrong part of the build plate you might lose the slicing lottery and it'll try to print outside the printable area. Like 60mm would be fine, as long as your filament is good. I've never understood why the default height for a skirt is for three layers. About the best thing a skirt does is get any crap in the system out before you start printing, and if you still have stuff that needs getting out on your third layer, you have bigger problems. MESH FIXES: You can turn Maximum Resolution down to like 0.1mm or so if you want to try and eke every last detail out of something you can. SPECIAL MODES: Nothing to see here. In a good way. EXPERIMENTAL: Conical support at that angle isn't going to make much of a difference. Be careful with your Small Feature Max Length: the higher it is, the more thing get marked as small features that don't really need to be and just increases print time for no benefit. Umm... told you I was good at nitpicking.

Il forum in lingua italiana è qui quindi dovrai perdonarmi se utilizzo Google Translate.
 
La temperatura di stampa potrebbe essere un po' bassa, di solito l'ho impostata su 245 per PETG, quindi potresti provare a 240 o giù di lì.
 
Probabilmente dovresti disabilitare la retrazione al cambio di livello e la retrazione prima del muro esterno. Il PETG è intrinsecamente un materiale più filante e molto spesso c'è una corda che non può essere evitata ogni volta che lo ritrai. È anche un filamento più morbido rispetto ad altri, quindi farlo scorrere avanti e indietro attraverso l'estrusore può danneggiarlo.
 
Dovresti impostare la velocità della ventola al 100% poiché ciò aiuta il filamento a fissarsi più rapidamente in modo che non venga trascinato dal materiale ancora rimasto nella testina di stampa.
 
Dovresti anche impostare la velocità della parete interna allo stesso valore della velocità della parete esterna poiché ciò provoca un cambiamento nella portata che può anche provocare una stringa, specialmente alla fine dove deve ridurre il flusso per la parte successiva che può uscire un pezzettino di filamento dietro il quale si può infilare. Ridurre la portata per il supporto non è così grave in quanto si passa solo da una portata per il supporto a qualsiasi altra una volta per strato.

Okay, so the answer to "is it the model or is it my settings" is: it's the model. It's hollow, in that there are paper thin walls with nothing between them (not enclosed). You can try printing it by turning on Walls > Print Thin Walls but since it's only going to print a single wall in those areas it's going to be fairly weak.

Doing some research I can't even figure out what even/odd mode even does, even looking at something in PrusaSlicer and changing the mode and couldn't see any difference, so I'm pretty sure Cura doesn't support it... whatever it actually is. You can submit a feature request if you'd like to see it in Cura.
 
Cura does have a vase mode (Special Modes > Spiralize Outer Contour) if it helps.

In Marlin it's not that you don't mix M and G codes on the same line, you can't. Each line can only contain one instruction and it deliberately avoids using G or M as parameters for any of them for this exact reason.
 
It's not a firmware problem. The problem is the g-code. M104 and G91 must be on separate lines. It's not executing the G91 (relative positioning) which means it's still in absolute positioning which means instead of moving up slightly it's moving straight down.
 
According to the Marlin reference an M104 without any valid parameters will disable auto-temperature mode. Since most printers don't use that anyway, it's essentially a no-op.
 
I don't believe it's a safety bug either, at least not with the printer, just GIGO. It's just a dumb machine following a limited set of simple instructions. If the instructions it gets are wrong, you can't really blame it for doing the wrong thing.

I save my gcode files to my computer and then upload them to OctoPrint manually, so I save them with whatever filename I want.
 
Something that might be a bit easier is a a plugin called Printjob Naming (you don't need to sign in if you just get it from the Marketplace inside Cura). Then you can just go to Extensions > Custom Printjob Naming > Set name options and include a {machine_nozzle_size} field in either the prefix or postfix.

I haven't used that script but it looks like you got the settings right.
 
Yep! Just change it in Material > Flow and make sure to click the save button at the top right of the settings.

You don't need to use any plugins - you can create a support blocker, move and transform it to the right size, then go into the Per Model Settings and select Print as support:

If you want to, you can even import your own models to use as supports, just put 'em in position and set them to print as support the same way.

It's easy! Just go to Extensions > Post Processing > Modify G-Code. Then click the Add a script button and choose Pause at height. Set the top box to Layer Number, enter the layer number. The exact settings for some of the options depend on your printer, but here's what I use on my Ender-3 V3 SE:

Method: Depends on your printer and what g-code flavour it uses. You should be able to look that up in your printer's settings in Cura if you're not sure
Keep motors engaged: In an ideal world, this would be an easy yes, but there are a lot of printers that don't respond to that command. The motors being "engaged" means they're on and holding the head in position. If they disengage, they'll have to home again on the relevant axes, and some printers (like the Ender series) use cheap mechanical switches for the printer to detect how far it can travel in certain directions, which don't always activate at exactly the same place, so if they have to home again you might get some layer shift (it prints slightly out of alignment with the layers below).
Disarm timeout: If you have a printer which can't (or obstinately won't) keep the motors engaged indefinitely (like mine) this sets how long until they disengage. The maximum time depends on your printer, but I'd hope almost any printer would accept at least 3600 seconds (an hour) at least.
Park Print: Moves the print head (and/or bed) to certain coordinates so you can access it easily. The X and Y coordinates I have on make it go all the way to the left and push the bed all the way back.
Retraction: Really only something you need to worry about if you're using a stringy filament like PETG or TPU that you don't want to drip.
Extrude Amount: Depending on how you're changing filament you might have to turn this on to get the new filament going. I don't worry about that and just manually purge the system - hold down the lever, pull the old filament out, push the new one in, force it down until the nozzle starts drooling the correct colour, release lever, clean up drool.
Use M109 for standby temperature? If you're changing filament, you want this unchecked. Using M104 instead will make sure it stays hot.
Standby Temperature: Whatever temperature you're printing at, you want it to stay at that temperature so the new filament will bond properly with the previous layers.
 
You can use as many instances of the script as you want for all your colour changes, just click Add a script and choose Pause at height again. My record is eight changes.

A print server won't notice the difference, it's just sending the code Cura creates. If your server is set to 100% flow rate then it shouldn't touch the values Cura has calculated, so if you had 100% on the server and 90% in Cura, it will go at 90%.

It looks like the problem is the CuraEngineTiledInfill plugin which was introduced in 5.6. If you're using it, switch to one of the normal infill patterns. If you're not using it, try disabling it:
Click Marketplace in the top right Click the gear icon in the top right of that window (shows only installed plugins) Find CuraEngineTiledInfill. It'll be in the first section Click Disable

I use the Pause at height post-processor script with the following settings:

Obviously change the layer/height it changes at with what you want, and set the Standby Temperature to whatever you're printing at. Unticking the box above the standby temperature makes it keep the hot end hot.
 
And just be aware of the disarm timeout: most Ender printers won't obey the "keep motors engaged" command so you need to make sure you change and un pause it before that timeout expires (although there it's set to two hours, I think at most Ender printers will accept 4 hours but I haven't tested it). If the motors disarm, then before it can resume printing, it will need to home them on the X and Y axes, Ender series printers tend to use cheap mechanical switches which won't activate at exactly the same spot every time, so if it needs to do that you might get some layer shift.

Minimum Bridge Wall Length: The minimum distance before a part will be considered for bridging and not an overhanging wall. Bridge Skin Support Threshold: Decides whether to bridge or not based on what percentage of that area is supported by the previous layer. Higher number = more small areas being detected as bridges (not necessarily a good thing, since bridges significantly interrupt the normally constant flow of material, and also won't be as strong as if an area could be joined by overhanging walls) Bridge Sparse Infill Max Density: This is only for the top of objects; if your infill percentage is low then the infill lines may be too far apart for regular lines to cross without sagging, this will make it bridge the top before doing the normal top/bottom layers. Bridge Wall Coasting: Because bridges are printed with thinner lines than regular layers, it requires less pressure in the nozzle. This setting makes the printer "coast" (moves without actively extruding material) to get anything built up in out. It will cause underextrusion in whatever part is printed before the model is printed before the bridge (most likely an outer wall, where it will be visible), and if it reduces the pressure in the nozzle too much (which at 100%, it will) then when it tries printing the bridge it may have to build up pressure before it actually starts extruding. This is very much a "trial and error" thing and will change depending on your printer, extruder and material. Bridge Wall Speed: Very much what it sounds like. With materials that print at cold temperatures (like PLA) you can get better results if you keep it low and keep the fan speed high then the material will solidify fairly quickly. With higher temperature materials this won't really work because it won't completely solidify the material, in which case you should print it at about the normal wall speed or it'll just sag as it trails slowly behind the print head. PETG isn't really a high temperature material but it is still a bit moist when it comes out of the nozzle so won't dry as quickly. You should use a normal wall speed for it or it'll just droop behind the nozzle. Bridge Wall Flow: What percentage of the normal nozzle flow it will use when printing the bridge walls. Lower means lighter lines which will cool faster and won't sag as much. Just don't set it too low or the extruder may have trouble keeping up with the changes (especially if you have a Bowden extruder). Bridge Skin Speed: Same idea as the wall speed. You can set this a little faster (but not too much) because it might already have a wall to grab onto, but I always keep it the same speed as the walls. Bridge Skin Flow: Same idea as the walls. You set this a little bit (like 5-10%) higher because it'll give the next layers more to grab on to. Bridge Skin Density: At 100%, it will print lines immediately next to each to try and create a solid surface. If your bridge skin flow is less than 100%, the walls still won't touch because they're underextruded. Not a good idea to keep this at 100% if you put flow up to 100% because a solid surface will take a lot longer to cool than individual lines. Bridge Fan Speed: Unless you have a good reason, you want to keep this at 100% to help the walls solidify as quickly as possible. Bridge Has Multiple Layers: Exactly what it sounds like. Lets you change the options for the next level or two, the idea being you can build up to a higher flow instead of putting a regular surface right on top (which if it's too heavy and the bridge hasn't fully set, will cause it to sag). From your settings:

You want to keep the fan speed at 100% for all the layers. They're still not fully supported and need to set as quickly as possible. Other notes on your profile:
As a general rule, your line width (you have it set to 0.45) should be about the same as your nozzle width for the majority of the print. Exceptions are thicker lines for adhesion at the start and thinner lines where needed for finer details. You're printing a lot of walls. Fine if there's going to be lots of pressure placed on small areas, but a waste of time and filament otherwise. The "norm" (at least so far as there is one) is 2-3 for general purpose stuff, more if you're printing your lines thin, in which case you usually do enough to achieve a certain thickness, but for most stuff it shouldn't need to be any more than 1mm. This one's entirely up to choice, but concentric top/bottom pattern works best with round things. Lines is a bit stronger and usually gives you a better looking print, especially when you're using a monotonic order (since it can't control the direction all the lines are printed on a concentric fill, because they run two different directions). Ironing is awesome if you're printing stuff which needs to look great from directly above. Outside of that, it's mostly a waste of time, it doesn't increase strength or anything. Triangles isn't really a great infill pattern in a lot of cases. Flow rate gets interrupted significantly at intersections, resulting in a weaker result, and top lines have to bridge long gaps (at the density you're using, the lines are up to 9mm apart). Cubic is great because it adds strength equally in all directions and prevents pillows of air forming in columns which can be visible on the top surface. If you're doing something which has a big internal cavity, you can use Cubic Subdivision to save time and filament by printing the infill less densely in the areas which won't benefit from the strength of the full density. I'm assuming the flow rate is something you've got dialed in to get the best results. If you're getting overextrusion it's better to try and fix it at the source rather than adjusting it in slicing. Make sure your extruder steps/mm is calibrated properly. You haven't turned down the flow rate for inner walls. This is going to be a minor problem when it switches from printing something else to inner wall (and vice versa) because it means the extruder has to adjust the flow rate to compensate. Be careful with your acceleration rates - just because your printer can accelerate fast (my Ender-3 V3 SE can go up to 4000mm/s²) doesn't mean you should. I've actually had it pull parts and stretch them as it zooms off on a travel move because the material hadn't fully set by the time it reached the end of the line. I usually limit mine to 500mm/s² out of an overabundance of caution, but for most things I do it doesn't affect the print time that much anyway. I'll just say this plainly - I think your jerk is too high, especially when you're using printing settings which will result in a lot of jerking, when you're doing concentric pattern in skin and triangles as infill. Jerk being too high be not just detrimental to the printing quality, if you're producing vibrations big enough it's possible for your bed to get a little out of alignment, would cause a layer shift (new layer isn't printed in exactly the same place as the previous one). I usually top out at 8mm. Your retraction settings seem a bit contradictory - 50mm/s speed probably means you have a direct drive extruder, but 3mm is far too much retraction unless you're using a very flexible filament like TPU. For PLA I retract 0.8mm at 40mm/s. If it's retracting too far that will unnecessarily damage the filament as it goes back through the extruder's gears. Also, retraction on layer change often isn't necessary, because it will start printing a new layer fairly close to where it finished the previous one most of the time. I'd change Build Plate Adhesion > Skirt Height to 1. I've never seen the advantage in more than one layer and it prevents some unnecessary travel and retraction. Your Maximum Resolution (under Mesh Fixes) is probably a bit too high - I'd say use your line width at most, but I have it set to 0.1mm regardless of the line width I'm printing. This will help details and things like curves look better.  
Hope all that helps!
 
If you're having trouble with bridges, it's best to post some photos and the Cura project file (.3mf, in Cura get it ready to print then go to File > Save Project) so the boffins around here can better work on the diagnosis.

Well the obvious setting to change is Travel > Z Hop When Retracted, and I'd probably turn Z Hop Only Over Printed Parts on with it (it'll make it find alternate routes instead of Z hopping where possible). It'd probably help if you shared your theory so we could comment on it or maybe work on it.
 
I wouldn't be so quick to dismiss the printer entirely - you need to make sure your Z offset is just right and that your Z axis control mechanism is at the right tension (if you have a screw, make sure you can - with the printer turned off - grab it with a couple of fingers and twist it a little bit and it shouldn't move, but grab it properly and you should be able to turn it to raise/lower the gantry. And definitely make sure the steps/mm is calibrated correctly for the Z axis. If things are only a little bit off it'll build up slowly over time until you get high enough for it to make a difference.

It's just light reflecting off the different lines differently, depending on the direction and order in which they're printed. If you turn on Top/Bottom > Monotonic Top/Bottom Order in Cura it'll make sure to print them so they all reflect light the same way.

Ah. Okay. FWIW, you can right click and choose "Paste in Plain Text" is most browsers these days.
 
On the preview screen, in the top middle, where it has the material and nozzle size, try changing the nozzle size and see if any of the profiles become available. I'm not familiar with Cura versions that old myself (just newer, and older than that) so I don't know if it would have stored it in a way which isn't compatible with new versions 

There's a way to manually add a nozzle size dropdown, but you'll need to make a custom definition file for your printer and put it in the Cura configuration folder (rather than just a machine instance, which is probably what you have). I don't know if custom FFF printer just uses fdmprinter.def.json as a base or what (in which case you'd probably need to create a definition that inherits from it).
 
But the important parts are, in the "metadata" section of the definition:
"has_variants": true, "preferred_variant_name": "0.4mm Nozzle", "variants_name": "Nozzle Size",  
Then in the variants subfolder of the configuration you need a bunch of files like this:
[general] definition = creality_ender3v3se name = 0.4mm Nozzle version = 4 [metadata] hardware_type = nozzle setting_version = 22 type = variant [values] machine_nozzle_size = 0.4 Obviously that's for an Ender-3 V3 SE. I don't know if it's important to get the filenames right (it's definitely right important to get the definition value right, matching the filename of your machine definition (which is why you shouldn't just change fdmprinter.def.json), but for what it's worth, that's creality_ender3v3se_0.4.inst.cfg

TL;DR: You need make the following changes to your settings:
Connect Support Lines off Support Horizontal Expansion down to 0.7mm Support Join Distance to 0mm Thorough detective work below, if you want to see how my brain approaches this problem.
 
Okay so if I set the support layer thickness to 0.1 it still does it, but not quite as bad. This means it's not just a weird display thing.

So the problem is that for most of the layers it's drawing this pattern:

But sometimes it's drawing this which has a few extra lines:

 
My first thought was "horizontal expansion + expanding object = sometimes it rounds up to draw a little bit extra. But no, same problem with horizontal expansion set to 0:

 
Then I realised "hang on, those bits are creating a perimeter". Turn off Connect Support Lines and it's (mostly) gone:

You don't really need to connect the lines when you have a grid that dense anyway.
 
But why the little bits which it's trying to print in midair?

Then I think "the lines are sorta close together... it can't be trying to join them, can it?" *sets Support Join Distance to 0*

Apparently it can be trying to join them. I suspected that that wasn't the root cause of the problem, so flipped Connect Support Lines back on for a quick test.

I think the join distance problem is actually a problem created by removing those extra connection lines. I could see that setting the join distance to 0 created a few orphaned bits though, which are bad because they're likely to topple over and don't contribute at all structurally. *sets Support Join Distance to 1mm*

Now it's just trying to join in midair some of the lines which are getting closer as the support curves seriously inside.
Oh, but it still left at least one orphan:

Hmm, that orphan is right on the edge... if I just move the edge slightly in... *sets Support Horizontal Expansion to 0.7mm so it shouldn't try creating two extra walls where they might not be needed*

Yay! No more orphans.
 
So now with that cocktail of changes, how's it look?

It looks like any self-respecting support should.
 
So, in case you forgot them during my rambling, the changes you need to make are:
Connect Support Lines off Support Horizontal Expansion down to 0.7mm Support Join Distance to 0mm  
Detective work over.

Could you please post a screenshot and a log file (in Cura, go to Help > Show configuration folder and the filename is cura.log) so we can see more?
 
I have experienced what (I think, based on your description) is a similar problem, caused by the "Settings Guide" plugin, if you have it. The help screen covers the whole window when you're trying to trying to change the start/end gcode settings. You can fix this by making the machine settings dialog larger by dragging the corners of the window outward.

You have Special Modes > Spiralize Outer Contour turned on. That will only draw a single line around, going up slowly, so that there is no Z seam, but it can only be as wide as a single line.
 
Although your current settings won't generate infill anyway; your walls are so thick that they fill the entire space:

Have you made sure your printer is properly tuned? Check that the belts for the X and Y axes are at the appropriate tension.