Jump to content
UltiMaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

So maybe white is tougher to print....


LePaul
 Share

Recommended Posts

Posted · So maybe white is tougher to print....

Everyone mentions white is tricky to get good results in.

My first print with ColorFabb PLA/PHA Standard White was good. Now this second print has a few things that make me wonder what else to tweak...

Note the top. I have the top/bottom thickness at 1.2mm

I printed on my UMO using the following settings:

Layer height 0.1

Printing Temp 200C

Speed: 35 mm/sec

Fill Density: 25%

No tangles...spool moves freely.

image2.thumb.JPG.29b8a7b9b1594b0b367e7b8ef3969d1c.JPG

One thing I may have found...my caliper battery died so I couldn't measure the filament, so I left it at 2.85 I am really curious if the filament is +/- .05 And if that would make a difference?

image2.thumb.JPG.29b8a7b9b1594b0b367e7b8ef3969d1c.JPG

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    • Replies 58
    • Created
    • Last Reply

    Top Posters In This Topic

    Posted (edited) · So maybe white is tougher to print....

    Don't have that problem. But I use the pure stuff only (PLA without PHA). Cheers!

    Translated: Maybe this is different for different filament brands?

    Edited by Guest
  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · So maybe white is tougher to print....

    I wonder why the top came out the way it did. Even with 1.2mm top/bottom shell.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · So maybe white is tougher to print....

    It looks like your getting underextrusion. There are a couple things you can do. You may want to increase your temp a little or slow down your print speed. Also check the tension in your belts to make sure there isn't any slack in the X-Y axis. With hard plastics like PLA when you get to the end of a spool the filament is tightly wound and can cause additional resistance inside the bowden tube. You can try swapping to a new roll and see if that solves the problem. I use "straighteners" on our machines and they make a big difference.

    https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-filament-straightener

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · So maybe white is tougher to print....

    Thank you for your reply

    I tried another two prints last night.

    This is a new spool of @ColorFabb PHA/PLA Standard White. The spool is moving freely, I've rotated it 2 or 3 times so the spool is slightly unwound for easier extruding.

    Ulimaker Original

    200 C

    34 mm/sec

    Bottom/Top thickness 1.2

    Fill Density 24%

    I used my caliper to measure the diameter and got a reading of 2.84 , 2.85 and 2.9 along a 6 inch stretch of filament. I stuck to 2.85

    The flat piece went well.

    The bigger piece is showing some overhang troubles. In Cura 15.04.2 I have support "Touching Build Plate" but apparently it didn't feel it needed any. The smaller piece did need supports and those printed.

    I know others have had troubles with white filaments and since I have a large project in white coming up (BB-8 droid), I really want to sort out the right settings!

    Here's some pictures

    white.thumb.JPG.618c243bb01ff680d0d31f0c24e0cc65.JPG

    white2.thumb.JPG.0e2b706388f00ae235058124ea64a451.JPG

    white3.thumb.JPG.bda1b3228d56185224ed77a050e6c2f9.JPG

    white.thumb.JPG.618c243bb01ff680d0d31f0c24e0cc65.JPG

    white2.thumb.JPG.0e2b706388f00ae235058124ea64a451.JPG

    white3.thumb.JPG.bda1b3228d56185224ed77a050e6c2f9.JPG

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · So maybe white is tougher to print....
    In Cura 15.04.2 I have support "Touching Build Plate" but apparently it didn't feel it needed any.

    It's a setting in the expert settings, you set the angle at which you want the support to kick in.

    overhang.png.ca440d1ce816fad3ddaca94d885ac3f2.png

    overhang.png.ca440d1ce816fad3ddaca94d885ac3f2.png

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · So maybe white is tougher to print....

    @gr5 I wonder if poking the heat up a few ticks would help?

    The small parts do great on these settings but the bigger ones....not so much.

    As to the belts, well, they don't twang like a guitar string but don't appear loose. My UMO is noisy so I haven't detected anything new or problematic. I just did 18 prints in ColorFabb black in varying sizes that all came out well.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · So maybe white is tougher to print....

     

    In Cura 15.04.2 I have support "Touching Build Plate" but apparently it didn't feel it needed any.

    It's a setting in the expert settings, you set the angle at which you want the support to kick in.

    overhang.png.ca440d1ce816fad3ddaca94d885ac3f2.png

     

    I've seen that setting and been hesitant to mess with it. :) Do most leave it at 45 or tick it down?

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · So maybe white is tougher to print....

    Try printing a test object with different angles, with NO support, with the material you want to use, and then decide what angle you find acceptable without support..

    Or do one with and one without support...

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · So maybe white is tougher to print....

    I try to print without supports whenever possible. If your angles are too steep you could try breaking the model up into multiple pieces or orienting it in such a way you don't need supports. I usually use 60 degrees for my prints. What are your fan speeds? Better cooling usually helps with steep overhangs.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · So maybe white is tougher to print....

    Fan setting are default ones. Fan comes on after first later

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · So maybe white is tougher to print....

    About over hangs. On my UMO/UMO+ Try to have the over hang face the single fan.  over hangs on the down wind side always look a little droopy. Sometimes this is not possible thou.

    And maybe go cooler, most of my colorFabb prints great at 190C. I am actually planning on opening my 1st box of colorFabb standard white today. So this post is great timing.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · So maybe white is tougher to print....

    and for the standard UM2 setup the left fan is better than the right ...

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · So maybe white is tougher to print....

    I upped the temp to 215 and still bad underextrusion. I'm stumped on this one. I may go back to the Black filament, or Dutch Orange, that had worked well.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · So maybe white is tougher to print....

    White prints pretty well for most areas (like walls) but it tends to be more liquidy. Less viscous. So it is more likely to leak/string and it doesn't do overhangs quite as well. But top surfaces should be fine. I tend to print white at a lower temp - maybe 15C lower. And then I end up also having to print slower because I'm afraid of underextrusion even if it's not necessarily a problem.

    I think you had trouble on that top surface because it is over an overhang and it took a while for the layers to "catch up". Maybe if you rotate the part so the circle is down? or increase infill to 24%? Or higher?

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · So maybe white is tougher to print....

    Hello @gr5

    I do have infill set to 24%

    I had printed at 200C and 30 mm/sec and had similar issues.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · So maybe white is tougher to print....

    I've seen you post this a few times...

    Print slower and hotter! Here are top recommended speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers):

    20mm/sec at 200C

    30mm/sec at 210C

    40mm/sec at 225C

    50mm/sec at 240C

    I am printing at 0.1 so using the above, that would translate to...

    40mm/sec at 200C

    60mm/sec at 210C

    80mm/sec at 225C

    100mm/sec at 240C

    Maybe I should re-check the filament?

    I did when I first loaded it and there seemed to be a few spots at 2.9 mm but some at 2.83 and 2.84, so I went with the average of 2.85

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · So maybe white is tougher to print....

    yeah recheck the filament is a good idea. all the colorFabb I have is in the 2.75 to 2.80 range

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · So maybe white is tougher to print....

    And that could explain, as I have seen in the reference guides, some of the underextrusion issues.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · So maybe white is tougher to print....

    You only had underextrusion in that one spot - it's not because of the temp or speed or feeder - it's because the layers below aren't high enough. At least I'm 90% sure. having filament down to 2.5mm would be (2.85/2.5)^2 or 30% underextrusion - I suppose that might be enough to cause what you saw - but it would be a problem in the entire layer - not just that one spot. I really doubt this is a filament diameter issue.

    I think it's just having trouble on the underside - maybe show a photo from the other side - I bet the layer looks pertty bad on the bottom side of that bad spot. Maybe if you could design some support structure underneath it would work out better.

    I could be totally wrong but in the photo it looks like it's only underextruding in that one spot.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · So maybe white is tougher to print....

    I'll post a photo from the most recent attempt tonight. I meant to do so but was running late for work and have a pilot meeting tonight. Check back this evening :)

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · So maybe white is tougher to print....

    I always thought white filament required a slightly higher temperature.

    If you say 40mm/s 200ºC I would reply with 40mm/s 215ºC.

    Every filament and brand has different 'perfect zone'.

    About the overhang; I would think that area could be a little bit better.

    (a higher resolution could help, dunno what fan duct you use and how well it is dialed in to cool the overhang?)

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Create an account or sign in to comment

    You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

    Create an account

    Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

    Register a new account

    Sign in

    Already have an account? Sign in here.

    Sign In Now
     Share


    • Our picks

      • Here it is. The new UltiMaker S7
        The UltiMaker S7 is built on the success of the UltiMaker S5 and its design decisions were heavily based on feedback from customers.
         
         
        So what’s new?
        The obvious change is the S7’s height. It now includes an integrated Air Manager. This filters the exhaust air of every print and also improves build temperature stability. To further enclose the build chamber the S7 only has one magnetically latched door.
         
        The build stack has also been completely redesigned. A PEI-coated flexible steel build plate makes a big difference to productivity. Not only do you not need tools to pop a printed part off. But we also don’t recommend using or adhesion structures for UltiMaker materials (except PC, because...it’s PC). Along with that, 4 pins and 25 magnets make it easy to replace the flex plate perfectly – even with one hand.
         
        The re-engineered print head has an inductive sensor which reduces noise when probing the build plate. This effectively makes it much harder to not achieve a perfect first layer, improving overall print success. We also reversed the front fan direction (fewer plastic hairs, less maintenance), made the print core door magnets stronger, and add a sensor that helps avoid flooding.
         

         
        The UltiMaker S7 also includes quality of life improvements:
        Reliable bed tilt compensation (no more thumbscrews) 2.4 and 5 GHz Wi-Fi A 1080p camera (mounted higher for a better view) Compatibility with 280+ Marketplace materials Compatibility with S5 project files (no reslicing needed) And a whole lot more  
        Curious to see the S7 in action?
        We’re hosting a free tech demo on February 7.
        It will be live and you can ask any questions to our CTO, Miguel Calvo.
        Register here for the Webinar
          • Like
        • 10 replies
      • UltiMaker Cura 5.3.0-Alpha 🎄 Tree Support Spotlight 🎄
        Are you a fan of tree support, but dislike the removal process and the amount of filament it uses? Then we would like to invite you to try this special release of UltiMaker Cura. Brought to you by our special community contributor @thomasrahm
         
        We generated a special version of Cura 5.2 called 5.3.0 Alpha + Xmas. The only changes we introduced compared to UltiMaker Cura 5.2.1 are those which are needed for the new supports. So keep in mind, this is not a sneak peek for Cura 5.3 (there are some really cool new features coming up) but a spotlight release highlighting this new version of tree supports.  
          • Like
        • 17 replies
      • New here? Get ahead with a free onboarding course
        Hi,
         
        Often getting started is the most difficult part of any process. A good start sets you up for success and saves you time and energy that could be spent elsewhere. That is why we have a onboarding course ready for
        Ultimaker S5 Pro Bundle, Ultimaker S5, Ultimaker S3 Ultimaker 2+ Connect.   
        They're ready for you on the Ultimaker Academy platform. All you need to do to gain access is to register your product to gain free access. 
        Ready? Register your product here in just 60 seconds.
          • Like
        • 14 replies
    ×
    ×
    • Create New...