Glue stick or...?

[LePaul 325]

I don't see a lot of documentation about use of the included glue stick with the heated bed printers.

I noticed many do not use it, instead taking advantage of the heated bed

When I tried out the glue stick, I was wondering what to do with those smears Use a wet cloth and spread it around?

I know I have read where some use a few drops of wood glue and water, paint it on the glass and allow to dry

I'm just really curious what people have used and suggest?

And if just glass printing, what's the sweet spot for temps?

I really want to retire the blue tape for good since it takes TONS of force to remove my prints on the UMO

[neotko 1,417]

I don't use glue. I just heat 65C fist layer at 30mm or slower. Ofc if your print needs fans before 5mm then, glue, hairspray, anything that works. Bluetape it's great anyway if you have overhangs at the beggining, to set fan high and forget about corners lossing adhesion.

[neotko 1,417]

Oh also, if you don't mind touching the print after, a skirt 0.3-0.6 separated of the print and 3-4 lines surrounding the pirnt, work wonders for me for fans on. Also for some filaments I need the first layer to be at lest 205-210C or bed 70C.

[owen 19]

I use glue stick sparingly and spread it around with a damp sponge. If you use too much you can lift some glass off the top. 70c for pla and 100c for abs and fan on early to reduce elephant's foot. You can do quite a few prints before reapplying. Tend to clean off and reapply for a big print. You need to let the bed cool down a fair bit before it will release it's grip. Im interested to hear what others are doing.

[tommyph1208 55]

Wood glue and water (~1:10 solution) applied to a 60 degrees hot bed with a sponge...

Water vaporizes quickly leaving a super thin and very even layer of glue that sticks PLA very nicely...

Edited January 14, 2016 by Guest

[LePaul 325]

PVA glue is what's suggested, right? Like these....

[yellowshark 153]

Hairspray brand optional, no messing around, sticks like glue to coin a phrase, part comes off easily as bed cools

[Labern 774]

Sometimes you need glue sometimes not. I use it as a just in case. Cos a if a print comes off then you would be wishing you used the glue in the first place.

I normally lightly wet the glass the wipe on the glue. The wet glass makes it so only a thin layer sticks.

This can last a very long time without having to re apply more.

[tommyph1208 55]

PVA glue is what's suggested, right?  Like these....

 

Its PVA wood glue yes... Be careful to not make too thick a solution, you can get large prints to stick really really well with that... Go with 1 part glue to 10 parts water, or maybe even less (I actually pulled a shard of glass off my borosilicate plate with a large print, because I used too thick a solution).

Edited January 15, 2016 by Guest

[danilius 118]

This topic has been covered extensively all over the forum, but essentially I use UHU stic (that's how they misspell it), heat the bed to 60C and draw lines across the glass. The heat helps to melt the glue a little. After that, it works for about a week, even after being overprinted and being cooled in the freezer (makes for easy removal). The stick that came with the Ultimaker 2 simply does not compare.

If I'm not too lazy, I use acetone juice even for PLA, and spread it by dribbling a line of juice across one edge of the bed and then using an 8mm steel rod like a rolling pin to create an even coat across the glass. The only drawback with this method is that the models will pull off the acetone film underneath them, so it's not re-usable, unlike glue stick.

[LePaul 325]

This topic has been covered extensively all over the forum, but essentially I use UHU stic (that's how they misspell it), heat the bed to 60C and draw lines across the glass. The heat helps to melt the glue a little. After that, it works for about a week, even after being overprinted and being cooled in the freezer (makes for easy removal). The stick that came with the Ultimaker 2 simply does not compare.

If I'm not too lazy, I use acetone juice even for PLA, and spread it by dribbling a line of juice across one edge of the bed and then using an 8mm steel rod like a rolling pin to create an even coat across the glass. The only drawback with this method is that the models will pull off the acetone film underneath them, so it's not re-usable, unlike glue stick.

 

I've seen a few threads and with the search not working well, I thought it best to ask.

Going from a UMO with no heated bed to one with a heated bed has been quite interesting. A lot of things you Ultimaker 2 owners take for granted is brand new to me!

[neotko 1,417]

I wanted to share my new glue method.

Get a pper towel, put a good drip of window washer product, and a very small touch of spray from a hair lacquer (just one small press of the spray on the area). Then clean the glass with it.

Works like a charm. One of my umo+ bed glass has lost adhesion after a year (no idea why since I give them much care). Now with this I can keep printing and using fans fast. When the bed colds to 34C it starts to unstick (the plastic sounds) and at 30C it's easy to take the prints out.

On my others umo+ the glass sticks to the pla prints without any trouble, but this other machine it's older and the glass has lost its 'magic'.

[eldrick 65]

Or use Makergeeks PLA, and you can print on warm dry glass and get a mirror finish on the bottom, and it releases all by itself when it cools.

[neotko 1,417]

On this umo+ the glass it's dead. The other umo+ don't needs any glue or anything. Also I can't use any pla for my prints, I need very specific colors.

[LePaul 325]

I used up my ColorFabb black PLA/PHA and had to switch over to Matterhackers Black Pro Series PLA. It suggests lower temps than the ColorFabb and went well. My first test print had a rough buttom, which lead me to realize the nozzle should be a closer to the bed. (Neat way to find out!) It wasn't shiny smooth as other prints.

I had a print fail on me too. The part came off the bed while printing on glass at 60C. It was a 3 inch wide by 5 inch tall piece. 2 inches up, it popped loose. Thankfully I caught it before the air spaghetti-plastic got too crazy

I tried it again, same temp (60c) but this time with the glue stick, smudged around with a wet cloth. That did really well, once the bed was cool I really had to wiggle to get that off the bed.

One thing that puzzles me is the overhang on one side was a little bad.

[dafridgie 0]

Hi all,

I am printing in Colorfabb Ngen and XT as well as Ninjaflex red and translucent on an ultimaker 2 extended and have had great results with adhesion as follows:

bed 'adhesive': I use co-op supermarket home brand super-hold hairspray - 90p/400ml.

its cheap and easy to get hold of on a Sunday

process:

remove Print glass and clean with Isoprpyl alcohol

spray a layer on and allow to dry for 5 mins

spray a 2nd layer on and allow to dry for 5mins

refit glass bed and level as normal.

thats it, all done

this lasts for many prints, particularly if you give a very light spray on the bed in place to keep the surface tacky after after 2nd print or so. ( a few squirts is more than enough)

Also, wait until the bed is fully cooled to room temp, way past when it says print finished to have the easiest print removal. I have found this hairspray to be very sticky at 40oC + temp and prints need to be pried off the bed unless the bed is 'cold'

Hope this helps