Couldn't this be caused by underextrusion or irregular extrusion too?
Possible causes of underextrusion that I experienced:
- White teflon insulator on the nozzle is worn out and deformed internally, causing an irregular flow. (If this is the case, replace it.)
- Dirt in the nozzle (if so, do an atomic pull).
- Irregular filament diameter.
- Filament is near the end of the spool, and/or wound too tight, so it acts like a tough spring resisting unwinding. I often manually unwind and straighten a few meters of filament, which greatly improves results.
- Irregular friction between the filament spool and the spool holder (black cylinder at the back), causing a jerky movement of filament, and thus irregular flow.
I am not saying one of these things is the cause, but they might be worth examining?
Recommended Posts
Nicolinux 288
@Dim3nsioneer: I have the +Kit with the 35W heater and the new coupler type. That thing is only a few weeks old and I din't print much. But I had this "banding" problem with the old UM2 head too and there I already used a 35W heater (but an old-school coupler).
@neotko: The story is a bit different. I didn't swap the x/y rods, only the thin rods that came with the +Kit.
In my quest to find a solution for the "layers not touching" problem I swapped a lot of parts and tried many things. Then I had a very big print job with XT-CF20 which ate some couplers and a bit of my nerves
@IRobertI: The temperature is solid, even better than my regular print head with the 35W heater.
The weird thing is, when I got the printer for the first time and although it had that "layers not touching" problem from the get go, it could still print very smooth walls with zero "banding" (see the comparison pics in the first post here in this thread).
So something must have degraded/happened that produced this problem. At least I can say that replacing the linear bearings and smooth shafts with more expensive ones (and tighter tolerances) doesn't help.
I hate debugging through exclusion
Link to post
Share on other sites