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rajilpahuja

TOPIC FOR PRINTING HT FILAMENTS ( PEEK/ULTEM 1010/ULTEM 9085/PPSU/PSU) ON UM2+

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Hi all,

The Goal of this topic is to bring people together who wish to print HT filaments or are printing them already, so that knowledge can be shared and more people are able to do this,

I came across these HT filaments four months ago, and wanted to print these and to what i saw that there was very little data available for this, and hence i decided to research and develop the modifications myself to enable me to test these materials, on my journey i was helped by quite a few people, and i would like to name them and hope they will join this forum to help others as well, so they can help more people print these on their UM successfully their names are as follows :-

"George Roberts" (the gr5 store one of the best persons i have come across and super helpful technically he connected me to tinker and helped with the firmware )

"TinkerGnome" (how can you leave this guy out of anything to do with UM all the programming hacks were his, he is the Mr Genius of UM Community)

"Carl Beck" (3dsolex best nozzle maker and dear friend couldn't print without his nozzles)

"Martin Bondeus" (bondtech, you cant really print these filaments beautifully and with precision without this guys feeders)

"Matt" (3dxtech cause if you wanna print, you need the filaments ofcourse, and quite a helpful guy)

(I also must thank my family and god they are my silent support always)

 

TEMPERATURES
Material	Nozzle	Bed
Ultem 9085	360C	150C
Ultem 1010	370C	160C
PSU		370C	160C
PPSU		380C	160C
PEEK		400C	160C

 

Air temperature is around 60-65C.

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What are you using on the print bed?  Is it glass with glue?  PEI? Also are you using two bed heaters (built in bed heater plus supplemental heater)? And tell us a little about this bed heater - is tinkerMarlin controlling the temp or do you have an external controller that also has temperature feedback?

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What are you using on the print bed?  Is it glass with glue?  PEI? Also are you using two bed heaters (built in bed heater plus supplemental heater)? And tell us a little about this bed heater - is tinkerMarlin controlling the temp or do you have an external controller that also has temperature feedback?

Hi gr5,

There is two ways to do this, standard way is using a PEI sheet, and the other way is using a glue stick, i am using a supplementary heater from keenovo it has its own temp controller, but the bed itself is controlled by tinker marlin.

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I'm guessing the keenvoo just has a power level and not temperature feedback? if so then if your goal is 160C you setup the keenvoo to a power level such that it gets the bed to a bit colder temp by itself (say 130C) and then you use the UM2 heated bed with it's temp sensor to heat it the rest of the way?

And does PEI work with all the materials? And does glue stick also work with all these materials? Which materials have you tried and know for sure work with which method?

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I'm guessing the keenvoo just has a power level and not temperature feedback? if so then if your goal is 160C you setup the keenvoo to a power level such that it gets the bed to a bit colder temp by itself (say 130C) and then you use the UM2 heated bed with it's temp sensor to heat it the rest of the way?

And does PEI work with all the materials? And does glue stick also work with all these materials? Which materials have you tried and know for sure work with which method?

@Gr5

The keenvoo does come with a controller they charge extra for that, you first heat your um2 bed to 125C and then start the keenvoo to add up the power, but other way round can be tried i guess, PEI works with all HT materials so does glue, i recommend getting a PEI sheet 5mm thick and print on that, that is real good adhesion, glue also does the trick, but glue can sometimes give away if not applied properly, care must be taken that the bed is well cleaned and then glue is applied else it will come off at those temps, the PEI sheet must be cleaned with isopropyl alchohol 99%, also it is advisable to clean the glass with that pre glueing and i have printed all now, PEEK, Ultem1010, Ultem 9085, PPSU and PSU, only material i havent printed is CF Ultem, which i will do shortly when Carl beck(3dsolex) will give me RUBY nozzels in 1.75mm as these HT filaments are mostly available in that, apart from that i have printed all.

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FYI - 3mm nozzles work fine with 1.75mm filament. You might have more trouble doing a cold pull but I don't do cold pulls much anymore anyway.

@gr5

Might have trouble as this nozzle is mounted on a E3d block and their heat break is pretty narrow and about 2.1mm in length, i can try tough but its pretty tough cleaning a ruby nozzle if material gets stuck, specially CF filled material, lets see i might give it try :)

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Did you have to build an enclosure to trap the heat?

Those materials, do you have to deal with fumes ? Or do you have a fume /air filter?

@lePaul

Yes an Enclosure has to be built its not that difficult, you can do it yourself, its just some nice acrylic sheets which can be cut to size and joint with Chloroform, else there is the chinese you can get a top made and the door i can give you a contact for that but they arent really cheap, and to what i know these materials dont smell bad at all, and their data doesnt say anything on toxic fumes, however i recommend keeping it in an airconditioned room with a bit of space, and i really dont keep standing there all the time, print the first two layers and move away and check in between, i am thinking of putting a camera soon :)

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Did you have to build an enclosure to trap the heat?

Those materials, do you have to deal with fumes ? Or do you have a fume /air filter?

The name of the chinese company, is Sanbrother from aliexpress, they make all kinds of covers and tops and custom enclosures for UM, they are pretty prompt but will need drawings if something special has to be done the representative is Alinda Qi you can contact them for that, however my enclosure has been built by me but i understand not all wud be willing to do everything on their own hence feel free to contact them if you wish.

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I also sell UM2 and UM3 enclosures in my store but USA customers only. thegr5store.com.

Thats great information George, so people from usa can buy enclosures from you, which is great for HT printing, i recommend printing In an enclosure , to me it results in better quality overall, best for Abs/Nylon/Polycarbonate and all HT filaments as well

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Until the UM3 series can be modded up to withstand those temps, I am stuck in envy land. But I am watching this thread to learn for the future.

Thanks for sharing!

@kmanstudios

I guess there must be some mods known to people for HT, but i think Dual wont be possible with this stuff but modified head for directfeed, and some tinkering with the firmware and perhaps u could do that, maybe gr5 and tinkergnome might know something on this i am guessing, i am not so familiar with UM3 but other people around here would be

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