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edwardlego

specific print shifts layers on same point

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During the years I've learnt to never assume things like that. It has bitten me in the arse before ;)

 

You could also set up a camera to record what happens to maybe get some clues. You could skip loading any filament and lower the print temp once the print is started (so as to not cook the material left in the nozzle) so you don't have to waste any material.

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It's the set screws.  Probably on one end or the other of the short belt.  Tighten the hell out of those.  Enough that you are scared you might break something.  Enough that if you used an L shaped allen wrench your fingers would hurt afterwards.  Hurt quite a bit.

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Hi Folks,

 

This is a very detailed print with some issues.

I'll guess this is the engine part of some "future space station"?

 

I've also had a look into this model in Cura 3.1 and in S3D 4.0.1 and here is the pictures:

 

Cura_Eng_Detail.thumb.jpg.67a2c8372de7ae684a2060c11aff73cf.jpg  

Here we see the retractions that is visible very much in Cura.

 

S3D_Eng_Detail.thumb.jpg.aa50f35c6847190ad1beca7558f001a1.jpg

This is S3D with same part of the model, but a little wider. The colors represent print speed at details.

 

S3D_Eng_Detail_Cut.jpg

Again, S3D, this picture show a "cutout" of the print at an interesting place, (color) of the speed information during printing at this layer.

Well, just wondering if there is some head (extruder) play and a hit so the Y stepper loose steps? Or could the X/Y stepper current happen to be set to too lo current?

 

You could say this is one of the reason why I alternate between those two slicers..

 

Anyway, just a thought.

 

Thanks.

 

Torgeir.

 

 

 

Edited by Torgeir

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Looks like the back of a Star Destroyer or something Star Warsy to me, but if you didn't model it, then its most likely an issue with the model? but you said it printed on a different printer? so not sure, but if it ALWAYS skips in the same place, then just for a test, sink the entire model to that rough point in cura or whatever and sit by it till it skips. I've had the head skip on one ultimaker I abused at my previous job, but a little sewing oil crossed fingers and a retry sorted it out. If it always does it at the same point its either the model and slicer software issues with it, or a particular action the print head is doing to skip a tooth or two on one or two of the belts. (are you 100% sure you tightened all the screws maybe you missed one?  just a thought?) also try printing slower and disable retraction?  Who knows, remodel it yourself I'd say, as the poor quality of most downloaded models are the main reason I learned to model objects myself. especially for printing regardless of how detailed they are! Just I just cant stand seeing those low poly cylinders and faces on large round and curved surfaces!

Forget low poly unless you are an animator, its all about high poly when it comes to printing! I personally am not into the 'low poly look' its an unfinished look to me, but each to their own of course! I have not had one printing issue since modelling things myself. Before they would happen now and then. Things can get corrupted, best to just try again. Also just because it loads into CURA it doesn't mean its not corrupted!

Edited by cloakfiend

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1) I still think it's the set screws.  Use a sharpie to mark the shafts and pulleys on the short belts (4 pulleys) to prove it.

2) It's possible you simply have too much friction.  with steppers not engaged (most of the time) push the head around and see if X and Y resistance is equal.  You should be able to use your smallest finger on each hand pushing on the two end blocks and move the head easily in X or Y.  Add one drop of oil (any light petroleum oil such as 3 in 1 or sewing machine oil) to the 4 outer rods.  The two rods through the head shouldn't need any oil but maybe a half drop of oil might help.

 

That it always happens in the same spot is not surprising.  The planner inside the printer is complicated and quirky.  There are ways to send the right gcodes such that you have  higher acceleration than normal (because of these "bugs" or features in the planner).  In fact the firmware has two accelerations: one should never be exceeded and is around 5 meters per second squared.  The other is to truly NEVER exceed (lol!) and is around 9 meters per second squared.  Just knowing that there are two different max accelerations tells you something right there.  I've looked at the code carefully and understand why they did this but the point is this: the right pattern of movement can exceed the lower of the two accelerations.  But this is rare and might only happen a few times within a print.

 

Lowering the acceleration and jerk by half will indeed help but then the quality of your print will go down.  Better to fix the hardware so you get good quality prints than to compensate your hardware issues by messing with the firmware settings.

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it's the aft section of a venator star destroyer from starwars, i downloaded it, but i put a lot of work in it to fixing it for printing. the bow section printed just fine, the aft failed before and after i printed the bow

it doesn't shift on the exact same layer each time, but it's only a couple of mm off

i'll wait for @kmanstudios 's print

Edited by edwardlego

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3 minutes ago, edwardlego said:

it's the aft section of a venator star destroyer from starwars, i downloaded it, but i put a lot of work in it to fixing it for printing. the bow section printed just fine, the aft failed before and after i printed the bow

it doesn't shift on the exact same layer each time, but it's only a couple of mm off

i'll wait for @kmanstudios 's print

It may be tomorrow afternoon before I can post any results. I am also not sure how it will print since I am using a UM3X and the GCode was for your type machine. But I like to live dangerously :p

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