Post your latest print!

[onkelgeorg 36]

Can someone please explain the advantage of a tumbler? im curious what it does exactly to 3d prints?

edit, never mind, i see its just for metal printed parts really.

not only for metal printed parts...

there is a technique called tumble coating also:

http://www.whirlinglight.com/tumble-coating-3d-prints-part-1/

[cloakfiend 995]

Hmm interesting, so then acetone combined with tumbling should then in theory produce a piece with no print lines and a metallic finish?

I see the finish is very fragile, but im sure a clear coat could help that somewhat.

[onkelgeorg 36]

Nice! is that drum rubberized on the inside ?

Do you know a supplier for a (rubber) drum, preferably in Europe? I only seem to find them in the US with huge shipping ...

here is 'your' rubberized drum inset:

printed with innoflex 45 filament

so there is no need to spend that much money

[FLG 9]

Clever

[cloakfiend 995]

Got a ghost email, so i thought, what the hell, ill post something seeing that im here now.

Well after learning that my PFTE is dying, i was worried that my print would be ruined, but alas it came out ok! It is my scanned buddha with my friends face on it. First Zbrush 3d print! yay! now on to aliens...

Another thing, i wish you could post portrait photos without having to crop them to prevent them from being rotated.

Edited June 12, 2015 by Guest

[ultiarjan 1,223]

are they auto rotated? when portrait on your pc? if so that should be changed imho, but not you could add to white areas to the side to make the picture landscape, but you should not need to do that of-course ...

[cloakfiend 995]

Yes they are auto rotated, otherwise i need to crop them like this....

Pic is same model as above post acetone, unfortunately the model split on me for some reason, o well, one line is not so bad to deal with, a bit of putty should do it.

 

are they auto rotated? when portrait on your pc? if so that should be changed imho, but not you could add to white areas to the side to make the picture landscape, but you should not need to do that of-course ...

 

[g_leopard 2]

what are your printing specs for this scaned buda ?

[cloakfiend 995]

i print everything with the same settings and print everything in pla. my settings are 0.06 layer height, 210c sometimes 208c temp. and all shells 1.2mm no in fill, speed 35mm/s. im going to do a tutorial on the post processing with acetone as some people who have no arts and craft experience tend to freak out at the mention of acetone, and get paranoid they will kill themselves or blow their house up. when in actual fact there is next to no danger what so ever, its all hypothetical. if you go to the tips n tricks section, you can look for acetone smoothing with pla and get the general idea of what you need to do.

 

what are your printing specs for this scaned buda ?

 

[g_leopard 2]

Could you share with me a model gcode to test a fine printing like that? I never get to configure my ultimaker 2 correctly not sure if its my code or printer and I see you make a really smooth one!

[cloakfiend 995]

The 'fine' print look i think you are talking about 'IS' the acetone look. without it you have lines. No settings will remove them. You have to physically remove them yourself. And the another reason for the 1.2mm shell (top/ bot) that may seem thick for some people is that it gives you a little more freedom when it comes to smoothing out the undersides (via sanding) and sharp inclines without going through the model shell, as they ALWAYS look lame in very thin layer heights. I read somwhere that i can change the distance the model is drawn from the supports and making the gap less may improve this. But hey ill send you the same model as above which is kinda poly heavy as its my first attempt at Zbrush, but it wont look the same as the picture above without post work. I didnt spend too long, maybe 15mins but still ive made an effort to make it look nice rather than slapping paint straight on it as some people tend to do.

Aletrnatively you can just go through free models and look for the most detailed one and print it at 0.06mm layer height.

And also just to let you know i am printing with out of the box settings, and never really touch the advanced setting in cure, just the basic ones as mentioned above. Good Luck.

im not at my desk but if you want to try to print my buddha then go to you magine and search for it, its there.

Edited June 13, 2015 by Guest

[cloakfiend 995]

Heres a gcode for the buddha, i tried uploading it to youmagine, but that website is completely usless and slow and contantly resets during uploads and gave me errors on files size and just about everything else so I gave up. but you may need/want to add supports for the ears as i forgot to! so i added the OBJ files as well. Cura doesnt seem to put the support on the lowest part of the overhangs for some reason just slaps them on its grid, and they really should be closer than it is now to the actual model in a perfect world. " my wish for future cura improvements!"

https://www.dropbox.com/s/x9um3hqt8yco1z4/buddha_girl.gcode?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/1pctc9qotvq5w6p/buddha_LISA.obj?dl=0

 

Could you share with me a model gcode to test a fine printing like that? I never get to configure my ultimaker 2 correctly  not sure if its my code or printer and I see you make a really smooth one!

 

Edited June 14, 2015 by Guest

[g_leopard 2]

HI Cloakfield, here is my current work, and how you ad suports then thats what keep me stucked

[g_leopard 2]

I see the code now, why the shell and bottom/top are so thick ?

[cloakfiend 995]

To stop the overhangs ruining the print. And making it stronger and more stable during printing. You could try 0.8 but i cant get good results that way.  The top and bottom sometimes leaves holes. With 1.2 you cant go wrong with anything. Might be a touch longer but with 0 infill you make up the time.

Nice paint job, it'd be nice to see better quality photos though. Its 2015, i expect clear photos, lol! Close ups would be better! Im a big fan of close ups!

Edited June 15, 2015 by Guest

[g_leopard 2]

Nice and how do I add suport ? cura does nothing in my piece when I press add supor everwhere

[cloakfiend 995]

Sorry, to add supports, just load it up in maya or max or cinema or blender, or any program and just make two cylinders from the base to the model ears. You will later cut this off but you need it to start printing the bottom of the ears or its too thin for curas supports. If you go to youmagine.com and look for my buddha then look at the pictures youll see how i did them there. You can even see how someone else printed it with the supports in the photo. Hope that helps, im not by my computer at the moment.

Just type buddha in the search and its the gold shiny one

Edited June 15, 2015 by Guest

[ultiarjan 1,223]

Quick and dirty prints, my kids are making a board-game for a school project/greek class... yes that's a troyan horse ... and the 3Dbenchy's have captains

[SandervG 1,521]

Were those captains inside that troyan horse first?

[ultiarjan 1,223]

Probably I would have to ask my kids about the rules of the game....

[ksn-arts 84]

 

I helped to print in 3D a wonderful job! Dmitri Dubyaga my friend and Colleges. Meet brotherbear-of-steel, #fallout #falloutstyle he created the 3D model within 14 days. I printed it for 36 hours on 3D printer #ultimaker2 and pla #rec. 5 days later, Dmitry painted by hand with acrylic paints

[SandervG 1,521]

Beautiful!! You should upload it in prints, and see if you can become the featured print!

Edited June 24, 2015 by Guest

[skint 61]

Awesome bear!

[drayson 75]

Great work - excellent paint job !!

[tommyph1208 55]

Man I gotta get me some paint gear and brush (pun intended) up on the old warhammer painting techniques, cause maaan!

That just takes 3d prints to a whole new dimension (again... pun intended)...

Meanwhile, here is what nhfoleys awesome slideblocks look like in a boring white:

The are printed in PLA at 0.2 mm. layer height, 0.8 mm. walls, 100% infill, 100 mm./s printspeed, 200 degrees hotend, 60 degrees bed.

Printer is a hacked UM1 with alu heatbed + glass, E3D hotend and crossflow fan...

Edited June 28, 2015 by Guest