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Posted · Post your latest print!
Daid, how did you insert items into the print whilst printing? if you pause, doesn't plastic keep leaking out the nozzle and make a mess of the print, and presumably you have to watch that the item you insert isn't higher than the current z level or you'll foul the head on subsequent layers?
I had 3 iterations of the model before I got proper insertion. Because you need to make sure you don't hit the inserted object with the printing of the new layer. And my 2nd head from the dual head was hitting the inserted object. I also added some tape on the inserted model to make sure the bridges wouldn't stick to it.

 

I have a filter i'd like to insert into a holder whilst printing and would appreciate any tips since I haven't succeeded yet!

You'll have to use my branch of Marlin:

http://daid.eu/~daid/marlin_build/

And you need an UltiController.

Then slice with Cura, find the layer on which you want to insert something. And add the following CCode to that layer, after the ";LAYER:xxx" comment

G1 E-5 F6000

G1 X190 Y190 F9000

M0

G1 X0 Y0 F9000

G1 E0 F6000

This will stop at that layer, move the print head to the right back corner, and then wait for you to press the button on the LCD panel. After you press the button it continues.

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Posted · Post your latest print!

seriusly cool Daid.

taking the ultimaker to he next level and also Cura of course.

It is really true, the only limitation to this technology is your imagination !

cool print, did you take any photos when the ultimaker started printing around the gears the casing ? that would be cool to see.

Also how did you position the gears, so the ultimaker knew exactly where to print the surround case, actually ? how did it print the under side of the case ith the gears lying on the work surface ?

super cool stuff Daid.

Ian :D

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Posted · Post your latest print!

I only have this fuzzy photo of printing:

http://daid.eu/~daid/IMG_20120522 ... .small.jpg

I first printed the underside of the case, then inserted all the gears, and then printed the rest of the case. But I had a bunch of test prints first to see if everything would fit and still rotate

IMG_20120520_204935.small.jpg

You can see the 3 iterations of the rotating wheel, which was a ring with small dots first, then a big wheel, and finally the wheel with cats in it.

On the top there are 2 prints to see if it's possible to seal gears in a print, and to test the small gears.

On the bottom right you see the first rev case, which was too small and did not work.

On the top left you see the previous revision case, which had thicker gears and a slightly different inside tooth gear, which didn't work as good as my final one.

And we have:

IMG_20120520_224636.small.jpg

This was step 2. First step is the big wheel, then you print the 3 small gears, then the center gear in which you need to insert the big wheel during printing.

I'm going to print another one, in less girly colors for myself. I'll see if I can take some more photos then.

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Posted · Post your latest print!

OK you gave me an excuse to buy an ulticontroller now Daid, thanks!

that's really awesome stuff - keep up the good work.

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Posted · Post your latest print!

I finally did the obligatory Yoda print, took me long enough...

edit: And it was to test out Cura. 0.1mm layers with skin enabled, two perimeters. I noticed that Skeinforge still creates those annoying "ghost" layers in the middle of no fill prints. I know the reason for them but they seem a bit arbitrary and unnecessary at times.

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Posted · Post your latest print!

very nice print !!

congradulations !

Ian :D

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Posted · Post your latest print!
...Skeinforge still creates those annoying "ghost" layers in the middle of no fill prints. I know the reason for them but they seem a bit arbitrary and unnecessary at times.

At least it's better than those spider webs Netfabb creates. It goes in all directions and is much harder to clean.

Nice print btw :-)

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Posted · Post your latest print!

Guys a big hug and thank you for all the help.

Here is a photo of our first test ultimaker object.

We only used Cura (super coool software) !!!! and made sure the two rear motor belts were firm and bang PRINT.

This ultimake printer is incredible and we only printed with stanard normal settings in SIMPLE cura r4.

HEHEHEHEHEHEHEHE :-)

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Posted · Post your latest print!

Looking great Ian!

 

Guys a big hug and thank you for all the help.

Here is a photo of our first test ultimaker object.

We only used Cura (super coool software) !!!! and made sure the two rear motor belts were firm and bang PRINT.

This ultimake printer is incredible and we only printed with stanard normal settings in SIMPLE cura r4.

HEHEHEHEHEHEHEHE :-)

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Posted · Post your latest print!

Scaled up Eiffel tower model 3x because the original one was too small for the slicer to slice..(certain areas - width - was less than the nozzle size) so slicer would output empty spaces in air...Also, I am using taylor's extruder with mk6 gear.... This had lots and lots of retraction..printed in two parts..14 hours and 6 hours..

Hitesh

happy.thumb.jpg.a349a5129062db09723f2af7420fdedf.jpg

zunlimited_elephant.thumb.jpg.1e617096b186d2eda407a90aff82c232.jpg

happy.thumb.jpg.cbcce4795bf9d96b6691f61e00aba285.jpg

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Posted · Post your latest print!

Wow, that's amazing.

I looked at the tower myself but gave up because the slizer failed no matter how I tuned it.

What did the scaling do to the printing time? I would guess this took all day or even more?

Extremely cool :-)

And Ian, well done with your print as well. That's much better looking than my first print.... or not to mention my 5 first prints. ;-)

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Posted · Post your latest print!

Thanks Alaris2, Frode.!

Total printing time was about 20 hours.. I sliced using Cura. I also tried using slic3r, but it would crash when the memory usage was around 1.5/1.6GB.. Not sure whether slic3r has some sort of limitation on memory usage....

 

Wow, that's amazing.

I looked at the tower myself but gave up because the slizer failed no matter how I tuned it.

What did the scaling do to the printing time? I would guess this took all day or even more?

Extremely cool :-)

And Ian, well done with your print as well. That's much better looking than my first print.... or not to mention my 5 first prints. ;-)

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Posted · Post your latest print!

Hey guys,

it's a shame that I don't use the forums regularly. I'm still on the mailing list... we need to fix that situation at some point to the one way or the other.

Anyways: Just wanted to give you an update on what's going on currently regarding string-prevention/proper retraction. By using some pretty straight-forward settings in Cura I achieved to get string-free print on my current test parts. There's still a lot of work to be done, but it's a clear statement: WE CAN DO IT :)

See here the hollow pyramid: zunlimited_elephant.thumb.jpg.2820b0d7dd8d0c9393f2dadcf5b95d72.jpg

And here a nice bracelet: happy.thumb.jpg.57b73cd13542afdc80a7c17986428a44.jpg

Cheers

Flo

PS: Find the Cura profile here:

https://groups.google.com/d/msg/ultimak ... C_v0aLS0AJ

 

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Posted · Post your latest print!

Wow... Cura now owns Netfabb, seriously! This is great news... I'll download your profile immediately :-) Thanks for sharing this, you rock!

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Posted · Post your latest print!

Don't get too excited ;) There's still some work to do.

In the long run we need smarter slicing software and probably a routine in the firmware which does some clever things to prevent oozing/pressure in the tube. Bernhard & ErikvdZ is working on that.

When working with the retraction settings I've posted make sure that you're running a current firmware. And I'm not talking about the RepG provided crap version. Just use Cura for an update, if you feel comfortable with it.

Here's a video of a crazy print I've just finished:

 

Keep in mind that this is not what we're aiming for... it's nice, but still not perfect!

Cheers

Flo

PS: Also don't get sad, when you can't get it working on your machine. It's easiest with the new v3 bolt (which is available in the shop and worth every penny). Also print the shim for the extruder side!

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:22851

 

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Posted · Post your latest print!

 

When working with the retraction settings I've posted make sure that you're running a current firmware. And I'm not talking about the RepG provided crap version. Just use Cura for an update, if you feel comfortable with it.
The Cura RC2/3/4 firmware is almost the same as the RepG34 version. However, using firmwares from older RepG versions is not advisable.

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Posted · Post your latest print!

"Almost" - that's the important word here. Ultimaker's versions are missing the E-yerk setting and are therefore not ready for retraction without missing steps.

Cheers

Flo

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Posted · Post your latest print!

Florian was complaining about the quality of my photos. So I got myself a better camera then just my phone. So for stability I printed a small tripod:

IMG_20120604_121547.small.jpg

IMG_0049.small.JPG

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Posted · Post your latest print!

Nice one David! Looking forward to some better photos ;)

Cheers

Flo

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Posted · Post your latest print!

wha? I must have blinked and missed something. what's this about a new v3 bolt and extruder shim? is there another thread on this already?

what's the supposed advantages - the retraction appears to work perfectly already?

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Posted · Post your latest print!

Unfortunately discussions are happening both on the forums (which I prefer) and over at the Google group. Here's the relevant thread:

http://groups.google.com/group/ultimake ... 7b81dfde6a

edit: And as a perfect example for why I prefer the forums, here's an edit with a link to the newest bolt :)

https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/parts-and ... ion-3.html

 

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Posted · Post your latest print!

I thought the google one was deprecated so we could all discuss and improve the Ultimaker on one forum (this one). I barely have time to read all the posts here...!

thanks tho Robert - that's some interesting work there, altho I think I'd blame most of the faults on calibration and slicer software.

I tried printing that object with my 'default' settings, de-stringing courtesy of Daid.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w228 ... 100771.jpg

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w228 ... 100772.jpg

apart from a gnats whisker of a string near the bottom, the print is totally string free. there's no post work done on this model (as you can tell!)

the only problem I seem to see in prints is variable print quality in z as evidenced here. regardless of whether there are retractions or not (a solid print would have had the same issues). it seems to be caused by subtle variations in filament width but can lead to structural failure as you can see in one of the pillars.

amusingly, it managed to recover the broken pillar and starts building in thin air further up which was great fun to watch.

that nasty blob on top is caused by the default end gcode which moves straight up, slowly peeing PLA all over the top of the model. I should change that to home XY first.

this is a stock Ultimaker without ultipanel but with the following mods.

1) machine oil instead of grease

2) mauritius fan instead of stock (which makes a huge difference on a pointy object like this)

3) tensioned and calibrated

so it's V2 bolt, not v3. doesn't mean the v3 isn't better, but I can't see any justification to buy one just yet.. ;)

PS. the lightbulb is pretty nifty tho flo! like to see one in glow in the dark PLA.

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