cloakfiend 996
Dim3nsioneer 558
This was a curious thing from the copperface, never seen one of these before lol.
Looks like a swiss power plug.
Only if the three pins are NOT in line...
cloakfiend 996
Nope.
We have CEE 7/4 "Schuko" for that.
https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/CEE-System
There is no 3-pin version of CEE 7/16
As I said, it looks just like a swiss power plug
but the center pin is not at the correct position.
https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/SEV_1011
This one looks correct
https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stecker-Typ_L
I can't say if it's the 10A or the 16A version.
The sockets for the 10A version can also accept Euro-Plugs but of cause not the other way around.
Indeed it seems to be in use in Italy. But I haven't seen them anywhere in Italy ever.
We always had Schoko and Europlug.
cloakfiend 996
I did worry about the plug for about 5 minutes because i thought it would be a hassle to get an adaptor, but it turns out that it plugs in to pretty much every adaptor i had, its the 10A 250V in case you were curious, and heres a pic of the plug im putting it in. it works fine all day long with no problems, so problem solved. its for the magnetic stirrer.
underneath are pics of green cf pla with brushed on acetone. one directly after, and one 40mins later.
Edited by Guest- 1
What kind of paint is this? The results are beautiful.
So is the affect on your green prints. I would say they don't need any further post processing. I love the affect it has on the print.
What is your end goal? What are you trying to accomplish or working towards?
cloakfiend 996
Thanks Sander, im nearing towards my end goal and hope to be there soon, ill let you know when im there. And as for the paint, ive spent a lot of time and money on paints and experimenting with them, so ill keep that to myself for now, and believe people should also experiment more, ive given a lot of information out on this thread as it is. heres one more paint effect, not plated, but this time the paint cracked the model pretty badly, not sure if it was the paint or acetone, and the brush on method can cause cracking due to the inconsistent amounts that are applied. You could buy an aerosol acetone spray, but its a waste of money in my opinion, and id prefer to spend the money on paints or other more useful products...
Maybe ill do a separate thread about painting... but its kind of a personal thing for me.
Edited by GuestHow about using a small airbrush set and spraying acetone? Do you think it could work? Of course I guess it has to be clean acetone and not something from your "dipping-jars"
Hey @cloakfiend,
I just wanted to say thanks for having such a great thread going here. I used this thread as my primary source of info for one of my finals this year. I gave a presentation on how Acetone can finish 3D prints, showed some of your images and some of my own results. I wouldn't have been able to get as much done without the information that you've provided here. Thanks again!
- 1
cloakfiend 996
Cheers mate youre welcome. I planned on doing one final lecture on it at fablab, but stuff came up, so ill end up doing that at some point next year.
And as for my split model, its not only the acetone that is the problem, but the industrial paints im using. They contain weird toxic chemicals that pla does not like. It the drying part that causes the problems. The quicker the paint dries the better. The above paint took 2 days to cure which was the splitting problem. And i slapped a patina to boot!
And ive no problem using dirty acetone as most of the colouring and crap sinks to the bottom after a while.
Basically the more acetone you use the better (not for your health though, lol), but too much and your model will split. You need to figure out a sweet spot. Dont skimp out on acetone.
Edited by GuestAnd as for the paint, ive spent a lot of time and money on paints and experimenting with them, so ill keep that to myself for now, '
ohh That isn't very open source of you!
nah jk, of course you can choose to do whatever feels right for you.
About your comment in regards of doing a presentation in a fablab, in which fablab were you planning on doing this? I was thinking it could potentially also be an interesting module for our Ulti-evening. Would you be interested on working with us on that?
cloakfiend 996
Possibly, im very busy at the moment, but ill let you know i need to sort myself out first.
forgot to mention that it was going to be at fablab london, but nothing was confirmed.
Edited by Guestcloakfiend 996
ok lastest casual mess abouts, trying more geometric stuff lately while i sleep. but the printer keeps me awake even when its a floor beneath me. its gonna have to undergo silencing somehow extra carpets or something, its just so damn quiet in the house i can hear everything even though its a muffled water pipes kinda noise. i'm also hearing weird clicking during retraction that is bothering me as my works um2 didnt make those sounds...we'll see. the octopus had tons of retractions on the 8 legs which i printed seven sections of. i am not printing that again. id rather print one and just cast more from it, i feel i just hurt my printer doing non stop retractions for ten hours straight.
wanted to acetone this one as well, but seeing as i didnt model it it wasnt designed for 3d printing and just got it from somwhere random during my bored searches it was full of intersecting geometry which i just couldnt be bothered fixing as i was in a rush. my advice is don't rush the modelling / fixing / cleaning up stage. i never really bother checking it in cura as i know what works by now, i was just hoping lol. it'll be fine second time around, overhangs suck though, but not as much as support material which i just don't use anymore.
Edited by Guesti feel i just hurt my printer doing non stop retractions for ten hours straight.
ha... it's not the noise.... you can't sleep because of a guilty conscience
Really nice octopus !!!
cloakfiend 996
Cheers, i didnt model it, it was just a variant of the regular one on thingverse, wanted to make a steam punk copper version, should look pretty cool after.
tasopoulos 40
@cloakfiend Could you please share some links on where to buy spray paints like the ones you've been using? Preferrably some place where they ship in Europe (me being in Greece and all). Thanks!
Quote by cloakfiend
And as for the paint, ive spent a lot of time and money on paints and experimenting with them, so ill keep that to myself for now, '
I think we have to have a little bit more patience before we can pick his brain
Edited by Guesttasopoulos 40
Yep, saw that post after I had posted my reply... Maybe this will work: Preeeeeety pleeeeeeeease?
cloakfiend 996
just found a roll of oldskool transparent green UM pla. soooo nice i almost forgot how good original ultimaker filament was. you guys should really switch back to your old manufacturing recipe, as it smooths so much nicer too. even better than colorfabb in half the time. One can always dream i guess.
heres a face i had on the card. before and after acetone. ill spray it next, great for overhangs too, seems to harden faster too.
if UM makes its filaments like it used to just over a year ago, ill tell you what paints i use lol.
Edited by Guest- 1
cloakfiend 996
heres more of that spaceship i started earlier, im not going to repair or print it again due to the ton of geometry intersections so thought id just print the rest and see if it survives acetoning due to thin walls and tiny details that are likely to warp.... still got the spikey things on the front to do, a few guns as well if i can be bothered.
Edited by Guest
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cloakfiend 996
those faces where not sanded or treated at all, they were printed in leaf green colorfabb, and sprayed directly after the acetone. no sanding, no undercoat, just one thin layer of paint, which i rubbed off one by accident and you can even see the pla colour underneath, but i didn't mind as i had under extrusion on that one as i dropped the temps to low again, lol.
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