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cloakfiend

Acetone Finishing on PLA

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....with regards to abs, its more reactive to acetone, so you will lose more detail when applying it, whatever you do with it, ive seen people spraying light coats on, but each to their own, im just showing PLA being smoothed as printing in lower temps means parts in your printer will last longer due to the lower heat and also its easier to manage, and less chance of failure.

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those faces where not sanded or treated at all, they were printed in leaf green colorfabb, and sprayed directly after the acetone. no sanding, no undercoat, just one thin layer of paint, which i rubbed off one by accident and you can even see the pla colour underneath, but i didn't mind as i had under extrusion on that one as i dropped the temps to low again, lol.

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Nope.

We have CEE 7/4 "Schuko" for that.

https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/CEE-System

There is no 3-pin version of CEE 7/16

As I said, it looks just like a swiss power plug

but the center pin is not at the correct position.

https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/SEV_1011

This one looks correct

https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stecker-Typ_L

I can't say if it's the 10A or the 16A version.

The sockets for the 10A version can also accept Euro-Plugs but of cause not the other way around.

Indeed it seems to be in use in Italy. But I haven't seen them anywhere in Italy ever.

We always had Schoko and Europlug.

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I did worry about the plug for about 5 minutes because i thought it would be a hassle to get an adaptor, but it turns out that it plugs in to pretty much every adaptor i had, its the 10A 250V in case you were curious, and heres a pic of the plug im putting it in. it works fine all day long with no problems, so problem solved. its for the magnetic stirrer.

20151218_185440.thumb.jpg.85bacf162bf0b09b4703e7c413daa584.jpg

underneath are pics of green cf pla with brushed on acetone. one directly after, and one 40mins later.

20151218_183812.thumb.jpg.7ed3483bedc316155e5d973788aa499b.jpg

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Edited by Guest
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these are all 0.04mm i dont see any reason going higher res at the moment....

IMG_8854.thumb.JPG.49ddc2bd57af9dec86226c29e05f1ac2.JPG

 

What kind of paint is this? The results are beautiful.

So is the affect on your green prints. I would say they don't need any further post processing. I love the affect it has on the print.

What is your end goal? What are you trying to accomplish or working towards?

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Thanks Sander, im nearing towards my end goal and hope to be there soon, ill let you know when im there. And as for the paint, ive spent a lot of time and money on paints and experimenting with them, so ill keep that to myself for now, and believe people should also experiment more, ive given a lot of information out on this thread as it is. heres one more paint effect, not plated, but this time the paint cracked the model pretty badly, not sure if it was the paint or acetone, and the brush on method can cause cracking due to the inconsistent amounts that are applied. You could buy an aerosol acetone spray, but its a waste of money in my opinion, and id prefer to spend the money on paints or other more useful products...

IMG_8858.thumb.JPG.5a452217d186fae8e653d33c92a9fba1.JPG

Maybe ill do a separate thread about painting... but its kind of a personal thing for me.

IMG_8858.thumb.JPG.5a452217d186fae8e653d33c92a9fba1.JPG

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Hey @cloakfiend,

I just wanted to say thanks for having such a great thread going here. I used this thread as my primary source of info for one of my finals this year. I gave a presentation on how Acetone can finish 3D prints, showed some of your images and some of my own results. I wouldn't have been able to get as much done without the information that you've provided here. Thanks again!

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Cheers mate youre welcome. I planned on doing one final lecture on it at fablab, but stuff came up, so ill end up doing that at some point next year.

And as for my split model, its not only  the acetone that is the problem, but the industrial paints im using. They contain weird toxic chemicals that pla does not like. It the drying part that causes the problems. The quicker the paint dries the better. The above paint took 2 days to cure which was the splitting problem. And i slapped a patina to boot!

And ive no problem using dirty acetone as most of the colouring and crap sinks to the bottom after a while.

Basically the more acetone you use the better (not for your health though, lol), but too much and your model will split. You need to figure out a sweet spot. Dont skimp out on acetone.

Edited by Guest

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And as for the paint, ive spent a lot of time and money on paints and experimenting with them, so ill keep that to myself for now, '

 

ohh That isn't very open source of you! ;)

nah jk, of course you can choose to do whatever feels right for you.

About your comment in regards of doing a presentation in a fablab, in which fablab were you planning on doing this? I was thinking it could potentially also be an interesting module for our Ulti-evening. Would you be interested on working with us on that?

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IMG_8877.thumb.JPG.268e5d0537875fffdd1e899369de7e13.JPG

ok lastest casual mess abouts, trying more geometric stuff lately while i sleep. but the printer keeps me awake even when its a floor beneath me. its gonna have to undergo silencing somehow extra carpets or something, its just so damn quiet in the house i can hear everything even though its a muffled water pipes kinda noise. i'm also hearing weird clicking during retraction that is bothering me as my works um2 didnt make those sounds...we'll see. the octopus had tons of retractions on the 8 legs which i printed seven sections of. i am not printing that again. id rather print one and just cast more from it, i feel i just hurt my printer doing non stop retractions for ten hours straight.

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wanted to acetone this one as well, but seeing as i didnt model it it wasnt designed for 3d printing and just got it from somwhere random during my bored searches it was full of intersecting geometry which i just couldnt be bothered fixing as i was in a rush. my advice is don't rush the modelling / fixing / cleaning up stage. i never really bother checking it in cura as i know what works by now, i was just hoping lol. it'll be fine second time around, overhangs suck though, but not as much as support material which i just don't use anymore.

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Edited by Guest

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and my latest, just ordered like 80euros worth of random specialist spray paints to experiment with, as i need to find an alternative to silver for electroplating as its just to darn expensive. this is just paint and not plated.

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@cloakfiend Could you please share some links on where to buy spray paints like the ones you've been using? Preferrably some place where they ship in Europe (me being in Greece and all). Thanks!

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Quote by cloakfiend

And as for the paint, ive spent a lot of time and money on paints and experimenting with them, so ill keep that to myself for now, '

I think we have to have a little bit more patience before we can pick his brain ;)

Edited by Guest

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just found a roll of oldskool transparent green UM pla. soooo nice i almost forgot how good original ultimaker filament was. you guys should really switch back to your old manufacturing recipe, as it smooths so much nicer too. even better than colorfabb in half the time. One can always dream i guess.

heres a face i had on the card. before and after acetone. ill spray it next, great for overhangs too, seems to harden faster too.

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if UM makes its filaments like it used to just over a year ago, ill tell you what paints i use ;) lol.

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Edited by Guest
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heres more of that spaceship i started earlier, im not going to repair or print it again due to the ton of geometry intersections so thought id just print the rest and see if it survives acetoning due to thin walls and tiny details that are likely to warp.... still got the spikey things on the front to do, a few guns as well if i can be bothered.

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