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stu-pidasso

Selector wheel stopped "clicking"

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Has anyone heard of the selector wheel on their UM2 breaking? I can't find anything on the forums about it.

 

My wheel turns, the display rotates from print to materials to maintainance, but the wheel doesn't "Click" to select. I've tried to cycle power, unplug/replug power supply, but did not tear it apart yet.

 

 

I've only had it for a few months, only printed maybe 6 things. I was just about ready to start my home-based business with this. It's not even listed in the "spare parts" on the main page. How do I get a replacement? It is 3 weeks out of warranty.

 

 

 

 

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Do you mean a physical click or the little speaker beeps? If the former, there's something wrong with the encoder on the board but if you can still operate the printer I see no reason to do anything about it. If the latter, the little piezo speaker probably broke and if it were me, I'd be happy about it :p (I find the loud bleeps annoying).

 

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Hi Stu

Yes i had the same thing many many months ago, my encoder broke had to replace the small board under warranty, Don't forget ultimaker are giving 1 year warranty now how long you had the machine ?

 

Whoa, a 1 year warranty now? I got mine delivered November 7th, 2014. Only opened the box like 2 weeks ago, was remodeling the office, didn't want it to get contaminated with dust and stuff.

 

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When i took mine apart the encoder had come away, but i was still able to use it while waiting for replacement part,

I had to have the board laying on the table in front of the machine, so i could turn it to move round the menu, then used a pen to push the center to select things...

Link to another hack and encoder part number http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7332-main-encoder-broke-the-pot-not-the-knob-need-new-one/

 

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The click getting mushy sounds like a smilliar problem you have with mechanical keyboards. It usually happens if something (Like soda :D) gets in the key, which prevents it from having the nice click action. I have no idea how this happend to a new UM, but as its well within waranty, you're best off contacting support.

Also; Just because your warenty is gone, does -not- mean that you won't get support. Dutch law is realy on the side of consumers. So if you have a 3 year warenty of something that should last 6 years and it breaks after 3 year and a day, the company that sold you the device should still cough up ~50% of the repairs (as it shoud have lasted 6 years).

 

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Note, I've seen this happen with a few machines at R&D. What could have happened is that the M7 nut that holds the encoder in place has come lose.

You can push the main white rotation switch out from the back if you use the standard hex screwdriver (there is a hole in the back of the transparent casing) then you should be able to see if the switch is still properly attached.

 

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Hi Stu,

Thank you for posting.

We would like to recommend to try Daid's suggestion to see if the nut came loose.

Fair chance it is a relatively easy fix, and getting to know the machine better and being able to do maintenance / repairs yourself will help you in the future for sure.

If that turns out not to be the case, please get in touch with our technical support team.

Like Cor3ys says, we offer a 1 year warranty which also affects our current users, not just the new.

So if your machine is only a few months old you should be fine.

Even if you would be out of warranty, our technical support team is always available for you for help and to assist you in troubleshooting. Besides what any law requires, we take care of our customers and we will always work along side with them towards a solution. Not because we must, but because we want to.

 

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Hi guys, I'm sorry about the delay in updating, I had a hellacious week at work and didn't have the time to do it. I got it tore apart, and sure enough it's the part selected that doesn't work. It will rotate, but not click. Does that mean I have to get a whole new board, or just that part? I have zero soldering experience, so any advice?

Edit: It says I'm not allowed to post a Photobucket picture here? If I can't post the pic, it's the same exact part that Cor3ys showed in his pic. Thanks!

 

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I had the exact same thing happen a few months ago. Post pulled clean out of the encoder. I was able to cobble up some switches to the circuit board so I could still use the machine. Wasn't pretty, felt like redneck engineering, but that's no way to use such a beautiful machine :) Contact Simon at support@fbrc8.com. He sent me a replacement circuit board w/encoder, minus the display. Swapped it out in about 5 min.

 

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I just wanted to put in my little story on this (and a few other) threads about stuck wheels.

This morning, someone reported that the push button on one of our Ultimakers wouldn't turn or click. So I start tearing the thing apart, and finally get to the point where I'm going to try and knock the white knob off from the hole in the back. It won't budge, so I give a few taps with a hammer on the allen wrench I'm using to push it - and half the rotary encoder rips off the circuit board!

Why was it not spinning or clicking? Because someone who'd put on some ABS juice let it dribble down over the rotating part, and it wicked in between the clear and white plastics - and glued it together.

So if it won't click AND it won't spin, make sure you haven't had something like this happen!

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My clickwheel today stopped recognizing the push button on my Ultimaker 2+. The rotary part still works I 'just' cannot click.

I was able to remove the clickwheel's white cover. There was no dirt or whatsoever behind it.

I failed in removing the knob from the board. Can anyone direct me to some kind of repair manual or describe how the clickwheel is connected to the board in order to remove it? I didn't want to break anything and use too much force.

 

I hope someone out there can help me!

Many thanks in advance!

 

Cheers,

Matthias

 

PS: I have bought the printer in March 2017.

 

 

Edited by brunbjoern
braindead, sorry

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Ok, as expected I was able to find a document describing how to remove the clear plastic frame (https://ultimakernasupport.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/115004187086-The-Button-Won-t-Click) just after my initial post.

Unfortunately, it didn't help too much. It doesn't solve my actual problem on how to get the click thing working again. ;(

 

Leaves me with the following questions:

- Can I solder a switch to the board?  Is there any description on what pins I should connect to an external switch?

- Is there anything else I can check now that I have removed the clear plastic casing and it still won't work?
- Can I manage the printer solely via software until I have sorted out the hardware issues?

 

Any ideas? Before trying to find a source for a probably expensive replacement board.

 

Cheers,

Matthias

Edited by brunbjoern
Previously updated/edited the wrong post.

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I agree it's most likely a hardware issue with the click wheel, but...I have seen an occasional case where the ribbon cables not quite being seated all the way can cause clicks not to register (but scrolling still registers), so...never hurts to try before throwing parts at it. ?

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OK, I just searched for and found your thread...Having just experienced what brunbjoern was dealing with.

This is a simple problem with what should be an easy solution.  What is happening is the actual button which connects to the pot-post is sliding down along the shaft and eliminating the range of movement required by the push-throw.  What you need to do is go in behind the clear housing bucket through the access hole with a slender flat-edged tool and work the button back up off the shaft...and you may as well take it all the way off and shorten the sleeve on the button (or add a small ball bearing inside) so this cannot happen again, and re-install the button on the shaft.  And I might add, the button did NOT want to come off of that shaft easily... PATIENCE..will be required. Once I got the button off, I realized the spring pot switch worked just fine.

  1512193707_Ultimate2button2Fshaft.thumb.jpg.a0ff3499dcb6512131b6442fc669cbd6.jpg

Edited by Bylwrks

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Exchanged the Ulticontroller board and as expected, it works again. If I wouldn't have been low on spare time I would have soldered a separate switch to the board. Maybe next time, this time I had to shelf out €90. ;(

The rotary switch is from ALPS but unfortunately I couldn't locate any model number. 

 

Many thanks for your support!

 

Cheers,

Matthias

Edited by brunbjoern

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