3dSolex Installation Support

[korneel 176]

I like how people are starting to find my spacer

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-spring-replacement

this is it..

just make sure you don't overtighten the connection! it should fit just right.. slowly tighten the hot end coupler until the heater block doesn't move anymore..

overtightening it will destroy the teflon piece!

[ultiarjan 1,223]

can you tell me how that will help? will it happen again? how often do I need to change the PTFE coupler?

Where's the best place to get them?

 

When printing at high temperature the ptfe gets damaged. If you take it out of your machine and push some filament through it you should not feel any friction. Usually you see it's damaged as the small bottom is black and damaged. How often you need to change seems to be depending on many things like printing temp, and the pressure on it.  You may not have to change it for years if you only print PLA at 205 celsius...

When you use a olsson block you can just remove the nozzle and feel if there's friqtion without the need to take the head appart, so thats another advantage of the olsson block...

Where best to get a ptfe it is depending on you location, I mostly get mine at a local shop (www.makerpoint.nl) but you can buy at ultimaker (not always the fastest), in the us at http://fbrc8.com/collections/ultimaker-2-spare-parts or get the 3dsolex version at 3dsolex.com (europe) or gr5.org/store/ (us and canada) (edit by gr5: fixed final link)

Edited July 6, 2015 by gr5

[domustyle 23]

damn thats crazy. haha

Edited July 9, 2015 by Guest

[swordriff 119]

HELP needed! Please can someone print the Black Plastic

Head assembly parts for UM2 and ship it to client in the UK?

They need to be tested to fit please. Ill send 3 nozzles as "reward".

Anyone? address to ship to from me by PM.

Edit: it is done! thanks

Edited July 22, 2015 by Guest

[domustyle 23]

Hi Guys,

just want to show my first print with 025 nozzle!

ok here is a picture with a normal sized one, dont looks very nice.

was my first prints with woodfill xD

The new smaller one has 16,5mm height

Edited July 27, 2015 by Guest

[gr5 2,196]

Can you show it next to a "normal" sized one?

[gr5 2,196]

An interesting post about problems with olsson block due to temperature and how he figured it out (block was touching fan shroud). And the solution was interesting also:

http://eleccelerator.com/olsson-block-low-temperature-troubleshooting/

[domustyle 23]

Hi Guys,

i have a Problem with the Temp Sensor in my Olsson Block, the screw with the small ring yust hald the heater but not the Temp sensor and since i installed the Olsson Block the temperature dont get higher than 210° Celsius.

[swordriff 119]

Screw much harder!

If anything breaks, I arrange new.

Could be manufacturing glitch in "cartridge holding" arrangement..

Edited August 6, 2015 by Guest

[gr5 2,196]

and since i installed the Olsson Block the temperature dont get higher than 210° Celsius.

 

It's probably touching the fan shroud - remove the 4 screws holding the fan shroud and let it hang and see if you can now heat up the nozzle okay.

[swordriff 119]

Hi Guys,

i have a Problem with the Temp Sensor in my Olsson Block, the screw with the small ring yust hald the heater but not the Temp sensor and since i installed the Olsson Block the temperature dont get higher than 210° Celsius.

 

Heat nozzle to 200, screw the steel coupler by moving the little holes to the left until it stops. The block is not lifted as high up as it goes.

It will not hit the fan shroud any more.

[domustyle 23]

Tank you guys, but i Don use the original fanshroud. Theresa is nothing touching the block. I use a Printed shroud from youmagine.

I think this error Came from the loose Temp Sensor. I will test that and let u know. And i contact you swordriff, if anything breaks :-)

[JohnK 30]

Ordered my olsson block and afew nozzles from 3dsolex and it arrived within 1 week of ordering (sent to Melbourne, Australia).

Installed on my UM2 almost without a problem apart from having to replace my temp sensor since it was stuck (I was expecting it).

I have to say it prints beautifully!! I'm really looking forward to trying the different size nozzles.

Excellent service from 3dsolex and a great design. Best upgrade for the UM2.

[stu_le_brew 42]

Ordered my olsson block and afew nozzles from 3dsolex and it arrived within 1 week of ordering (sent to Melbourne, Australia).

Installed on my UM2 almost without a problem apart from having to replace my temp sensor since it was stuck (I was expecting it).

I have to say it prints beautifully!! I'm really looking forward to trying the different size nozzles.

Excellent service from 3dsolex and a great design. Best upgrade for the UM2.

 

I agree completely, the 0.6 and 0.8 produce amassing speed and the quality is good too

[DidierKlein 729]

What i find the most usefull with the Olsson Block is that you can have a dedicated nozzle for exotic materials.

For example i have a dedicated .4mm nozzle just for Colorfabb XT, I only use it when i print XT so i don't risk clogs if i print with PLA after.

A dedicated .8mm nozzle for Wood filaments,

And a dedicated .5mm nozzle for Carbon fibers.

I don't remember having clogs since then

[frederiekpascal 193]

I got a question where I can't seem to find the answer for....

How many hours will a nozzle from 3Dsolex (0.4mm mostly) with normal PLA, printed not hotter then 210°C last?

A few hundred hours of even more?

Cause I bought a full bag of nozzles but I don't know when a nozzle is worn-out or just clogged. :-)

I don't know how to detect when a nozzle is worn-out or just clogged...

[swordriff 119]

Salu, Monsiuer Pascal!

Good question!

There are many types of PLA, I like viewing it as base material, and then there are additives like, colour, metals, fibers, chemicals to modify its features.

If you print PLA in white or black etc ONLY, then it will last a very long time, even thousands of hours, just like a knife used for butter only.

If you print bronzefill ( Fantastic material) or other filaments with strong chemicals or hard fibers, the nozzle will wear down quickly! There is one user I know of who will shorten a brass nozzle by several millimeters in hours only.. They need to use steel or other solutions..

(The main disadvantage using steel is that it conducts heat poorly, so prints much slower, also PLA sticks to it more).

Worn out; Look at it, is the rim around the hole larger than it was new? In a 0.4mm nozzle typical total tip diameter is about 1mm, in a 0.8 nozzle various designs have from 1.4 to 2mm.

Rule of thumb; wider rim ( the thickness of the walls around the exit hole ) yields better flat surfaces, narrower rim better walls..

To diagnose clogged.. well the feeder starts skipping...

Perform Atomic Method or Cold Pulls according to epic instructions found at

www.3dverkstan.se

Atomc Pulls gives you an inside view of the nozzle and proves that it is clean!

Good luck!

Thum

[ultiarjan 1,223]

I think it's good practice to keep separate nozzles for normal pla and for the filled stuff and glow in the dark. Also if you make sure to keep a new nozzle separate and unused you can just compare to see ware....

[frederiekpascal 193]

thanks for clearing this out for me @ swordriff

appreciated!

Frederiek

[Volpino74 1]

Hello guys ! Does anyone know if there perhaps have 'for Ultimaker 2 firmware that allows the nozzle to go beyond the 260 degree heat ??? thanks Alessandro

[rigs 735]

Hello guys ! Does anyone know if there perhaps have 'for Ultimaker 2 firmware that allows the nozzle to go beyond the 260 degree heat ??? thanks Alessandro

 

https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases

300 ° max

.....PTFE...... ::angry:

Happy printing

Edited January 4, 2016 by Guest

[Volpino74 1]

 

Hello guys ! Does anyone know if there perhaps have 'for Ultimaker 2 firmware that allows the nozzle to go beyond the 260 degree heat ??? thanks Alessandro

 

https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases

300 ° max

.....PTFE...... ::angry:

Happy printing

 

Rigs Hello! The firmware you load within CARE with the classic procedure and then send it to ultimaker 2 right ??? I have already 'tried ??? PTFE you think maybe going to 270/280 degrees as can 'last hours in print ?? thank you ! Alessandro

[rigs 735]

  Rigs Hello! The firmware you load within CARE with the classic procedure and then send it to ultimaker 2 right ??? I have already 'tried ???

 

Yes, i use it for 1 year now...

Cura ----> install custom firmware ---> print !

For the PTFE if you want print only at 270 and more :

http://3dsolex.com/i2k-insulator

[Volpino74 1]

Rigs Hello! But going beyond the 260-degree nozzle you never run the risk of damaging the Ultimaker 2 for ecessiva temperature as originally to go up 'to 260 degrees ?? Alessandro

[rigs 735]

Rigs Hello! But going beyond the 260-degree nozzle you never run the risk of damaging the Ultimaker 2 for ecessiva temperature as originally to go up 'to 260 degrees ?? Alessandro

 

Don't worry I print at 280° PC/ABS without damages.

Only fine particles to feed my future cancer