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I have never used Cura before, so I really don't know much about what I'm doing. The printing is perfectly normal when using the Anycubic provided software, but gives [attached images] when using Cura. I'm using: Generic PLA Kobra 2 neo I also hear some high pitched noise when the printer was printing. I'm using the Anycubic kobra default profile, and for the print settings, I'm using the same settings I use inside Anycubic slicer. (I don't know how to get the print settings configuration file) AK_Soldering Jig.3mf

You should be more worried about it melting through the top layer of the build plate and exposing the metal sheet underneath (it's happened to me). This is why I use my own custom definition. Still, try changing the startup gcode to: M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate M221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate G28 ;Home M420 S1; Use saved mesh leveling data G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder G1 Z5 F3000 ;Move nozzle up G1 X0 Y20 F5000.0 ;Move to start position M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0 - 20} ; Start heating bed M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Start heating hot end M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Set bed temperature and wait M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Set hotend temperature and wait G0 Z0.28 ; Lower nozzle G1 X0 Y100.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line G1 X0.4 Y100.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder G1 E-1.0000 F1800 ;Retract a bit G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up G1 E0.0000 F1800 That'll keep the nozzle at 5mm off the bed until it's hot, and instead heating the bed all the way THEN heating the hot end because I find the hot end heats up quicker than the bed, it waits until the bed has warmed to 20° below its final temperature, tells the hot end to start heating up, then waits for both the bed and hot end to heat up. Let's just say that whoever is maintaining the definition in Cura... I'm not a fan of their work.

The yellow dot is a cross-section of an axis adjacent to the blue line along the edge of the square. If the yellow dot were cyan it would better match the blue line, which I presume you mean is a "Z seam," ie., the up and down corner of a square (an edge) is technically a seam: If the tip stops there, changes direction, etc., it's a seam. Is that what you mean? BTW, I have yet to open your file and check it out! Thank you! A casting idea (maybe you said coasting) is also very interesting, to have some sort of a hot 0.2 mm high aluminum mold (sheet) that the tip prints into. It could make atomic levels of precision on the corners, like invisible microchip level of precision (crazy). And, implementing a coating on the mold that allows the cold print material to detach, even depositing some atomic layers of itself onto the print (or vice versa, having an aluminum oxide layer come off), or whatever (is also crazy). 😹 I never thought .2mm of precision would not be enough, but the human eye can see this. Notwithstanding, in different contexts, precision looks different. An improvement on the corner of say, from a 0.2 mm radius to 0.1 would be really significant! Gosh, it could it actually be sharp, which I had never thought of before (I don't think it has to be that sharp). Below is an image of natural crystal for comparison. What do you think these corner radii are? TBH, I haven't really looked at it that closely yet. Pyrite Crystals on Marl 95 x 78 mm Navajún, La Rioja, Spain I still have a ton of work to do on this, it seams. [A back of the envelope calculation of 1355 pixels per 95 mm, to 14.2 pixels per millimeter, is 0.07 mm per pixel, eg., the corner.]

The Filament broke and the print paused. I opened the bowden tube and took out the broke part, but when i resumed print it didnt load the filament to the nozzle .. it just started printing with no filament? also there is no option to load or change or anything all greyed out. Any insight into why it wont load the filament again to continue the print?

Cura 5.6 has no issues. Installed Cura 5.7, and when I go to print, instead of heating up the bed and nozzle and then once warmed up it homes and starts printing, it'll home, goto 0/0 with the nozzle against the build plate, and then heat up. I thought that would cause more issues with blobbing. This is the Ender 3 V3 SE profile.

Is that the Z seam? If it's overextruding just slightly at the Z seam you might want to try turning on Experimental > Enable Coasting and playing around with the settings, it looks like you'd want it fairly low, but I use the setting which is basically the opposite of coasting (Walls > Outer Wall Wipe Distance) so I can't tell you what "fairly low" is - just maybe start at the default and experiment. It makes the extruder stop extruding a little bit before it reaches the end with the idea being whatever is left in the nozzle should be enough to finish off that line without having anything left over to form a blob.

This isn't a solution, but I was curious too... many of them are null (the ones which are just 00s), several of them are Unicode characters without ASCII or ANSI equivalent (so they're only appearing in Notepad++ as their Unicode character codes): They all appear before what are probably either filenames or object names (like what extruder it applies to). I would say they're definitely not supposed to be human readable text. "PK" has several different forms when it comes to technology, but I'm wondering they're maybe Primary Keys of a database, unique identifiers? But there is some consistency: The first 30 or so bytes of the first and last lines are almost the same but there's a few different. I can't make any sense of them either. If anyone around here can, it's probably @ahoeben.

Okay, you guys: I am going to carefully re-read through your responses (again) and think (harrumph ... arrghhh) about them more over the weekend. You both have provided a lot for me to consider! More variables, thanks a lot. 😹 Currently, I am preparing 16 consecutive files to run. Each is about 5 minutes, so I will be positioning them onto different quadrants on the Cura build plate, and they will be loaded consecutively after each has completed. In other words, each will have different gcode settings — I imagine this will allowed, that Cura will place them onto the surface accordingly, and does not default each time to dead-on-center. This way, I will not have to wait an hour for the bed to cool in between each 5 minute test. Honestly, I can imagine going through a few rounds of these "sweet 16s" over the weekend. The Cura version I have is 5.7 (an AppImage on Ubuntu), so I will take a close look at your file. I already downloaded it, and I will run it over the weekend! Thank you, Slashee !! Below are some images of the test tower I printed. The yellow dot is an edit pencil I am using to highlight the outside corner "bulge," which is not yet zero. It's a ferocious battle! 😹 The markings on the ruler are 0.5 mm. The test tower is illuminated in blue LED to highlight the corner. I have configured the print using vibration compensation on Sonic Pad. The pressure advance ranged in the test tower from 0 - 0.2, I may have to take it higher. BTW, the PTFE tape is working perfectly on the tip. No leaks and it's been over twelve hours of printing. I didn't have to go crazy torquing the tip, normal torque was fine, and smooth. All I used were two turns of the tape (but I split the tape lengthwise to the correct width), of this stuff, "-450 to 550 Degree F Performance Temperature." It's not thin like the teflon tape used in residential plumbing applications. See link below. https://www.amazon.com/Gasoila-Density-Performance-Temperature-Stainless/dp/B001VY039C?th=1 And "Gizmo Dorks Polyester Film PET Tape [sheet]" for the bed is working great! Thank you again, so much, Jaysen and Slashee !!!

It's a known problem that if you use glassfill (GF) or carbonfill (CF) filaments it can grind down your feeder teeth. Here's how you test your feeder: insert filament only half way down the feeder. Have the feeder engage - I don't know how to do that on the connect but on some UM printers there is a MOVE command. Turn that enough for the motor to engage. Now pull down hard on the filament. On a working, good UM2+ feeder it takes about 10-15 (about 6 kg) pounds of force to get the filament to slip through the feeder. I recommend lifting a 10 pounds/5kg weight before and after you get the filament to slip. Or you can squeeze a weight against the filament to see if the feeder can hold the weight. Other common problems on a UM2 that happen after 3 years: replace the teflon part. Especially if you have been printing at temps above 210C. It may look fine but it gets soft where it touches the heater block. This part should be replaced about once every 500 hours of printing. Check the front fan (not the side fans). Make sure it spins as soon as the nozzle is > 60C. The symptom for a broken fan is that it prints fine for 5-20 minutes and then starts to fail. I have a list of >20 other possiblities but start with these 3.

Good night I have had an ultimaker 2+ connect for about 3 years and it has worked very well for me. Recently, I have been experiencing serious problems printing parts. The part starts to print and fill correctly, but after 3 or 4 extrusion passes, the filament does not fill correctly. The walls normally extrude well. I have checked the extruder and tensioned it. Checked and tensioned belts and lubricated all axles. Nozzle changed, same result. Another filament, same result. Factory reset same result. Other gcode same result. Clean installation of cure with the latest version, same result Say that I have been using technical material (fiberglass) about 5kg with the ruby mouthpiece. I can see wear on the metal grinder in the extruder, although I don't know if it is enough for this to happen. I would also be interested in improving or updating any part if necessary. Has anyone had this problem? Thank you

I've had the same issue with this specific error. Previous print ( a couple hours prior) did not generate this error. - Loaded STL from thingiverse - Adjusted size (increased by 125%) - Sliced - Sent to cloud attached printer (again, been printing fine up to now) - Just checked an Printer shows off line, which has happened before but has not returned this error. My log is attached. cura.log

Hello, I am currently trying to generate some Cura profile files (*.curaprofile) for a custom tool but I have some issues with the format. There are headers with characters not recognized on NotePad++. I attached an image showing the unknown headers starting with "PK". Does anyone know how to recreate those characters or avoid using them? Thank you 🙂

Why not just use the mb version of Cura? It's okay to have multiple versions installed at the same time. If you are a software programmer you can learn how to use the tools used to create cura. How to build Cura is not trivial even for programmers. There are articles on this forum about how to do it and experts who can help you but they aren't going to teach you the 300 steps. But if you get stuck on a particular step e.g. a linker error, they can offer suggestions. Instead, why not just use the mb version? The last time I compared the mb version and the UM version, the mb version was much better at nicer looking prints.

And do you know how I can introduce or what I can do to add those gitHUB patterns in cura? I don't know how to do it

Hiya! Your always-trying-to-be-friendly assistant mod Slashee here. You'll probably get a better answer if you post this question in the UltiMaker 3D Printers board since your problem seems to have a lot to do with the hardware. If you're having a hardware problem with your printer, you should try searching the extensive knowledge base or contact support at the UltiMaker support site.

I haven't tried BTRFS but I'm assuming they don't like it and that means they have very poor taste. */me doesn't want to start a filesystem war* It's pretty much only Windows that uses backslashes in file paths. Everything else uses forward slashes.

You need to be running Cura 5.6 or higher (that's when they added a plugin for it) and then in your Cura configuration folder (in Cura go to Help > Show Configuration Folder) and inside that you go to the folder plugins/CuraEngineTiledInfill/CuraEngineTiledInfill/tiles/ and add your design as a .wkt file

Any chance you could post the exact gcode file you're trying to print? There might be something that explains how the printer is doing it (even if not why).

Technology troubleshooting step #1: Reboot it. It used to be "turn it off then on again" but Microsoft had to ruin that for everyone (in recent versions of Windows, rebooting it and turning it off then on again do different things by default). It's just good you didn't have to get to step #17 (threaten it with a hammer) or step #23 (hit it with the hammer) 🙂

Hmm strange situation: now, after rebooting my laptop, everything is working fine. 😕

There's no practical way to do it. They exist only in @burtoogle's fork of Cura.

Hi @canaksaya, The no 2 extruder port "has" to be activated as the "primary port" in the firmware. The "firmware" is the program that's control the microprocessor on UM2's main PCB. Modifying the firmware might be the bets way to go, I'll think. Some third party "firmware's" may be used as well.. Someone else might chime in here. 🙂 In the meantime, I'll dig a little into this matter. Thanks Torgeir

@Torgeir is good with the UM 2 printers. Maybe he has a suggestion?

Thank you for your analysis of the model and I it may not be perfect but the misalignments are microns and in Inventor the two models are aligned to more than 4 decimal places (in millimetres at that) via planes so maybe that's a Cura issue too, the alignment when merged in the program but we digress and I can live with the miniscule misalignment as it certainly isn't the problem. As I'm the one who's been seeing this happen I know full well it's not the model causing issues. If I sit around and melt the blobs away while it creates them with a flame and flatten each one, the model prints beautify and the misalignments you've noted aren't visible without a magnifying glass. When I say the blobs are the issue, you (well, I actually) know it, they go with a hell of thump, the whole machine judders and it's ALWAYS when it set's off on the return to the print job. If I get chance I'll see if I can catch it on video this weekend. I know it sounds like I'm exaggerating but believe I'm not. Also it's definitely an issue related to Cura towers, it NEVER happens when it's coded in Prusaslicer, their rectangular towers give me no grief what so ever, however, as I've previous said for whatever reason I just can't seem to get Prusaslicer to dial in the quality of print I can get in Cura hence why I want to do them in Cura and not Prusaslicer. What would be perfect is Cura doing a tower like Prusaslicer as it never pauses over the tower and thus does ooze whacking great snot ball over the tower, but that's not going to happen any time soon lol. Maybe if Cura had this pause over the entre opening in the tower then wiped on it's way outward would be the answer. I'm simply looking a resolution I didn't have with the CR-X but only applies to these damned A10M's. I'm not blaming Cura, If I'm doing something wrong I'd just like to learn how to correct it

Thank you for your response!