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By the way, this looks like one big island. Which seems like a bad idea to me. But I can't tell as I can't zoom in much.

I believe someone on the Cura team once told me that when it finishes an "island" (aka a loop) it then looks for the nearest loop. So I imagine it goes through the list of all loops and when it finds a point closer it updates the index to that and the distance. So if it finds several of equal distance you get the first on in the list. Unfortunately the list is unordered because the triangles in the STL are unordered. So a hack-fix might be to modify the distance between each island by say .00001mm through .00500mm in the order in which you want to print them. If you are creating these with openscad, this is pretty trivial. Almost any other CAD, it's not so easy. By the way, this is the famous "traveling salesman problem" which tries to find the shortest path to visit many locations and is exceptionally complicated and there are probably thousands of papers and algorithms on the subject. When you get above 20 or so locations, there are more possible paths than atoms in the universe. So you have to do an algorithm that's usually "reasonable". The current algorithm is not very sophisticated at all obviously (just go to the nearest next island).

I don't like to guess, but this is a guess. Cura doesn't see a bunch of walls, it sees a bunch of square holes and each hole has "outer-wall" around it. The fact that the distance between holes is about 1 line width means that each square hole shares a wall with the adjacent hole. That might be what is giving the funky toolpath. You can try playing with "Group Outer Walls" and "Optimize Wall Printing Order". You may end up with a different toolpath, but not necessarily a "better" toolpath. As AHoeben suggests, if you make that area solid, and use a properly spaced "Grid" infill (you might have to use a Mesh Modifier and adjust the line distance rather than the infill density) then Cura will print the grid as lines from one side to the other, You can rotate the grid so it is perpendicular to the structure by adjusting the line directions to something like "[0]" as the default (empty brackets "[ ]") is 45°.

lol anything over a 9 is considered off the chart. so double digits is things are NOT okay.

Did you know you can accidentally format an sd card with riser fs if you don’t pay attention on one of my playgrounds? Enders don’t like riser fs sd cards.

I would contact the reseller you got this from because you got the olimex board for a 3 not 3 extended.

@madmax21 check this thread after checking your pcb wiring as replied by @beadster

yes indeed, and thank for all the help on the forum

Hello, I have a problem with the Extruder 2 motor driver. For this reason, I want to use the Extruder 2 connector on the motherboard for motor connection. I made this connection, but ext1 is still active in software, so the engine connected to ext2 does not work. Extruder number 2 cannot be selected for the Ultimaker 2/2+ printer on Cura Software. Therefore I cannot activate ext2. How can I solve this problem? Thanks in advance for your help. Can

Use an infill pattern instead of modeling the grid.

at least you found your issue !

Hello, I have a problem with the extruder 2 motor driver. For this reason, I want to use the Extureder 2 connector on the motherboard for motor connection. I made this connection, but ext1 is still active in software, so the engine connected to ext2 does not work. Extruder number 2 cannot be selected for the Ultimaker 2/2+ printer on Cura software. Therefore I cannot activate ext2. How can I solve this problem? Thanks for your help by now. Can

A cautionary tale and an embarrassing error. I am posting the answerto help others even though the mechs in our workshop are having a real fun time with the solution to this issue. I mixed up the fan and capacitive sensor plugs, but the diag on the cap sensor still gave realistic readings through the coil of the fan 😞 which masked the error. I won't excuse myself with justification but we all can mess up but... In the rush to fit the new fan I forgot to take a picture of the connections in the rear, the capacitive sensor plug didn't want to go back into the housing I knew it came from easily and I didn't want to push it, the fan connector easily fitted and the cap sensor plug easily went in the other, I didn't notice they are all JST connectors and could be fitted wrong. 3DGBIRE did also mention the routing of the fan cable can affect the sensor performance. The moral of this fix is it was always the front fan on this machine. the original slowly died and I cleaned it and got another month of work but the issue was slowly returning, the new fan fitted would have fixed it. 3DGBIRE did a service and a great quick turn around, I can't fault them on their service and a decent price. I will now go and avoid all my co-workers and hang my head in shame. bd

My older 8 bit mainboard can print from a sub-folder on the card, but not from the LCD. The file has to be called out in a very particular fashion and can only be done with a script calling out the file with an M23 command sent to the printer and using the DOS 8.3 filename. That took some cogitatin' to figure out. The form for a file in "NewFolder" is: "\NEWFOL~1/SUBFOL~1.GCO". Removing the drive letter wasn't bad but having to replace the back-slash with a fore-slash was NOT obvious.

Some don’t like folders, spaces, only specific file extensions, require specific folder structures, use custom file extensions , and on and on and on. you need to tell us a bit more about your set up including the printer and computer (with os).

I have an issue when making fine grids, this program seems to very randomly drag across instead of doing a logical maneuver. Is there a way to fix this?

How can I add more fillings patterns in the CURA e.g. gyroid honeycombs etc...?

hi, does anyone know how I can add these fillers to my Ultimaker CURA? or does anyone have a way to add these fillers to the CURA directly? THANK YOU VERY MUCH

I am having Ultimaker 3 ext recently we changed the olimex board after that, the build plate not fully raised. Its raised half way only

The parts of your model aren't quite lined up: It could be getting caught when it attempts to print juuuuuust slightly further around than the main section. Also at the top, there's a small gap between the ring and the area surrounding it: It's because the ring is "rounder" (has more segments in its circle) than the model around it. The same applies to your coloured sections: Hard to see (so I added a highlight) but there's also some sections where the difference is enough that there's actually a gap between the two: There's absolutely no way I can say with any certainty that's what your problem is. But it definitely doesn't help. If it's trying to extrude slightly out of position relative to what's already there it could get a, especially if it's priming itself as it gets there. (Mod tip: you should probably edit your first post to change the title to something like "big blobs at colour change" or something like that)

It'd be awesome if you could attach a Cura project file (.3mf, get it ready then go to File > Save Project) of a print that has this problem so those of us with too much free time who hang around here could have a look and see if there's anything we can find that'd fix it.

I've only done bearings on UMO and possibly UM2, sorry. But for those it was 4 screws holding the bearings. Try google? The thing is, if you remove the z screw, then you can test the bearings by just sliding the bed up and down. It should be obvious. Also look if the Z screw is crooked - shaped like a curve. The z screw is triple helix so just measure with a ruler 3 threads. Or measure 9 threads and divide by 3.

Anything over 8 is a problem. calibrating the lift switch is a complete waste of time as long as noise is at 30-60. Whether the cores are even installed or not should have nothing to do with the noise. You need to fix the noise level first. Do you have sources of EM noise nearby? Sources may include: computers motors fans air conditioners speakers things with computers in them like toasters, microwaves, cell phones, laptops, unfortunately everything these days has a computer in it. wifi access points wires that lead to any of those things - even a 30 foot wire that leads to a noise source - the wire can act as an antenna if it passes near the printer Move all those things 3 meters from your printer and see if that affects the noise. If not, move the things where they were as they weren't the problem. 30-60 is crazy high. I didn't know it could go that high!

Have you tried saving to the hard drive and then coping the file from there to the SD card? You could also try formatting the SD card. They can develop corrupt memory sectors and those areas can't be written to. If you go for fomatting, remember that it will wipe out all files on the card so back up any you want to save. (If there is corruption on the SD you might not be able to get your files off it.) What printer is it? Some don't like file names over 16 characters and others can't handle large capacity memory cards.

i do my slicing then save to disk when i put disk in printer it shows no file trying to figure out why getting frustrated