Daid

That pretty much sounds like an Ultimaker Electronics issue. Most likely a short somewhere which is causing the power to drop and a reset.

The shim never hurts, but I have never used it myself.

I also still have a V1 hotend in my machine, works fine for me. But the V2 hotend has some advantages, if you want to play with different nozzles sizes then you can order some extra nozzles, and those are much easier to exchange in the V2 hotend. The V2 hotend is also less likely to leak. The extruder upgrade is awesome. Bertho's idea on this works great ("Bertho's extruder upgrade" on thingiverse is the father of the upgrade) I highly recommend it on any machine. Fan ducts is always a tough one, what works for one doesn't work for someone else, and most ducts are designed for the V1 hotend, where the V2 hotend has the heaterblock a few mm lower.

I've been tracking down this problem and it's related to the video card drivers, I'm trying to fix it, but it's not easy. You can try installing the 13.01 version, it's under the testing releases on the download site.

Right now you have selected the wrong baudrate, AUTO almost always works, try posting an error log from a AUTO session.

Yes we have, but that won't fix the issue. Actually all electronics are under the loop at the moment, as there are more interference issues, and some emission issues. But it's not like we can make a quick change to fix everything. Real engineering is required right now, and that takes some time.

Sadly, there is an electrical problem with the LCD wires, and the SD card can cause interference on the LCD itself. This causes the LCD to be garbled up. Re-inserting the SD card solves this, but you cannot do this during a print. On the positive side, it only garbles up the visual part of the LCD because of a communication error. Nothing is really broken, and everything continues to function except for visibility.

Care to take some pictures? Of your hotend and the extruder?

The flow shows 210.54, but this is a bug. (The actual value it tries to display is 866, but due to a bug it shows 210.54) so changing it has little effect. The firmware in the 13.01 Cura pre-release has a flow setting in percentages, so that shows 100%.

There could be something burned up inside the nozzle causing a partial blockage, trying printing at 260C (yes, this is extreme for PLA, and might smell a bit) printing at 260C usually cleans up the nozzle very well and removes any partial blockage that could be in there.

You're just having initial relationship problems with your Ultimaker, same as when your met your wife, also took a while before you where both tuned into each other

It does load the GCode, but that can take a short while, after it's loaded you should see 2 extra buttons at the top (a row of 5 buttons, "normal view", "transparent view", "x-ray view", "GCode view", "mixed view") Use the GCode view to view the GCode again. But even before that button shows up, you should be able to press the print button just fine. (This is a pretty bad user-experience, I know, and I'm working towards changing it)

The GCode file is the prepared file. This file contains all the commands that the printer needs to know, but it also contains your settings, so the settings can be loaded back into Cura. (It's mainly a feature for people who change a lot of settings and then run tests to see what prints best, and then can load back the best settings) Normal steps should be: -Load an model file -Prepare the model with your settings (creates the GCode file) -Print the prepared GCode file

Awesome! And nice cat! (+5 points for the cat)

Recommended printing temperature is 210C. PLA starts to flow a tiny bit at 180C, but you need a higher temperature to really print at the speeds that the machine can achieve.

You don't have to fear for your derlin parts, the screws are stainless steel which is a bad heat conductor. Putting a ultracap in direct series with the 5V might cause a huge current spike on startup, which could be bad for the electronics, better to put a resistor in front of it to limit the initial current to the ultracap. Other then this, your idea sounds fine!

"Load profile from GCode" doesn't do any printing, it loads the profile setting (config settings) from a previous generated GCode file. The bed leveling wizard has a starting issue which I didn't notice before the release. It needs to home after connecting but it doesn't always do this.

Best to send an email to support with your order number, then they can check if something has gone wrong. Worst case, the bank will transfer the money back to you.

Do you see a .gcode file being created next to the model file you loaded? (the prepare step should create this file, and the print button checks is this file exists, and if it doesn't then it gives the "prepare first" errror)

A photo always helps, but the most likely cause is some backlash caused by too little tension in the short belts. These can be really tight, just unscrew the motors a bit, push the motors down, and screw them down.

http://reprap.org/wiki/Ultimaker%27s_v1.5.7_PCB

On some kits the X endstop labeling is wrong (due to a mistake in the drawings) try swapping the wiring for the X endstops around.

On the other hand, I do have progress. Right now my slicer does: * Number of outside shells * Top/bottom skin in a concentric way (as netfabb can do) * Path order optimization (code works, but needs to be cleaned up) * Retraction on inter-island travel (this was very easy to add) I've already done a basic print with it. It has a bunch of flaws, mostly because the sparse infill is missing. On the ToDo list is: * Sparse infill * Up/Down-skin line pattern * Advanced Combing Oddly enough, then I should have a basic slicer.

It's a fixed amount of 2mm of filament.

I think you have some backlash on the Y axis, with something as simple as a cube this would show as a smaller print. Is the small belt on the Y motor tight?