IRobertI

Remove the blue horse shoe, push down on the white piece as far down as it will go and you should then be able to pull the bowden out.

With the new feeder you wont have to adjust the tension anymore so there's no need for a knurled bolt (trust me, this is a good thing...). The only parts needing set screws, unless something drastic has changed, would be the pullies and the coupler for the z-axis motor. But IIRC those already had the set screws inserted when I completed my build. That might have changed though since it's been about a year since then.

The mention of a plate on the backside got me thinking of Iron Man but then I had a closer look and the rest of the hand doesn't fit the theme. Bummer

It'll be interesting to see if it will be a completly trouble free experience. Please report back after you've used it for a bit.

Don't listen to snowygrouch, pictures are always required (no, I still haven't done the mod myself, all the parts are just lying there next to the machine, mocking me. I'm a pansy relying too heavily on the "if it aint broke" policy )

For the fan duct I'm a fan of this one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:21182 The new hotend was created to prevent the plugging problem so if your original is working fine there is no reason to change it. The extruder drive upgrade is well worth it though IMHO as it makes retraction much more reliable. The shim and the new feeder aren't related at all, both are good to have though. For the hotbed someone (sorry, I've forgotten who it was, doh!) tipped us about this thing which looks pretty good. It's not a complete solution though: http://store.qu-bd.com/product.php?id_product=30 The forum situation is in a state of flux at the moment. A new forum software is being beta tested and will replace this when it's ready. But I don't think they'll shut down the google groups (seems quite a few people are dead set on using their e-mail clients instead of forums. Personally I can't see the reason but hey, people are different ) so it'll continue to be two split communities.

The Z-blob can be formed when the printer is transitioning from one layer to the next. As the platform is lowered a tiny amount of plastic can be seen oozing out and forming a little bump. Usually this only happens in one area of the print (see below) but depending on settings and such it can happen during travel moves as well. A related thing is the Z-scar which is the small ridge you can see running up the side of the print. The slicers are much better at controlling this these days and the Z-scar isn't much of an issue any more IMHO.

Thanks for the tip. I had a look at my delrin roller and it too is showing signs of wear. Not as bad as yours but obvious signs that it's deforming.

"I've adjusted the position of the spring/bolt apparatus" How do you mean? It can only be attached one way and the black lever should go all the way down until it rests against the wood, it'll snap into position really. The screw should be tightened until it stops. Don't overdo it though, it is plastic after all, but you'll feel when the screw hits the delrin as the resistance will go up sharply. What does the filament look like after it stops? Does it have grinding marks or nice clean tooth marks? Also, check that the bolt is nice and clean. I can't speak for the hotend as I'm still on the old one, hopefully someone else will jump in and help you out there. The new hotend should've solved the dreaded plug issue but if it isn't assembled properly maybe that's still a thing. Again, not sure as I'm not using that hotend.

Just checked the shipping on those to Sweden, $24 and that's not counting the customs fees and tax. In the end I'd be paying more in fees than the actual thingy costs, bleh Thanks for the tip though.

After much googling I finally found them. You forgot the hyphen http://store.qu-bd.com/product.php?id_product=30

I'll bite. Any info on that?

If you were promised a 1.5.7 board and didn't get one then you shouldn't be making your own, Ultimaker should fix the mistake.

Sometimes it's fun to just do stuff for... fun Also, I don't think it's bullshit. Try changing the max acceleration/jerk/etc and then move the printhead around, it gets pretty scary.

You can print it hollow, I have. Been experimenting a bit with that model and very fine layers (0.04) but I get "fuzz" on some parts of the model for some reason, not sure why. But it ruins the print. Seems like if you go below about 0.08 or so you start losing quality. At least on my machine.

I doubt many Ultimaker users have much experience with Makerware. For giggles I tried installing it on a virtual machine. First of all, over 100megs!? Second, first install went fine, program hangs on startup. Uninstall, re-install, install didn't finish. Another uninstall and re-install, program hangs on startup... And it also adds some sort of service that runs in the background. Glad I tried on a virtual machine...

How much more is way more? My gut is telling me it's a bit overkill but it will be interesting to see your results.

Sorry to see your post get delayed for so long but welcome all the same. Eller ska jag säga välkommen

Why am I not surprised... Last visit and post from Alexander: Nov 01, 2012. Last post over at the google groups January 09. Last post by "UltimakerAdmin": Dec 10, 2012. Erik's last post on google January 09. In the thread about the forum over at the https://groups.google.com/d/msg/ultimak ... f-sJE2ZLkJ ]google groups[/url] (*sigh*) Alexander says that the forum will be changing platforms and that this is expected to happen mid/end of December. We are now fast approaching the end of January... The one person from Ultimaker that posts and visits frequently is daid and he's paid for software development.

Short answer, nope. Longer answer. Since what you're trying to support needs to be in contact with the actual support it will leave marks no matter what you do. Experiment by rotating the object so that the side that needs to be pretty can be printed without support. Failing that it's time for sandpaper (the wet kind is best) and elbow grease.

Sure, but you have to pay €105 for that functionality. (I just send the commands via Pronterface/Printrun)

Overreact much? This is exactly the place to state that for us speed is a very important feature and that is the only thing we did. No one is bashing cura. Calling it a flamewar is just silly.

I have to agree with snowygrouch here. After my first print with KS I completely abandoned cura. And the reason for that was largely due to the speed difference (I do my slicing on a slow laptop so every bit helps).

That is a sweet model. Think I'll have to print it just because it's cool (then look at it for five minutes before dumping it into the bag of random stuff never to be seen again ).

The only link I have on hand right now is this one: http://flashgamer.com/arduino/comments/ ... -ultimaker Can't quite remember who it was that did that write up (or if it's recent and good. Haven't read through it all yet), I found the link over at the google groups. A tip would be to search there as well since I think more info is available there on that subject than here (yay community segmentation!).