IRobertI

My final version of the earbud holder. Download available over at Thingiverse. edit: Yay, I got featured

Right, I'll just throw in a few random things that I've wanted from time to time. Sorry if I'm repeating stuff. This is a "stream of conscience" post. [*:3n9i7s3z] Individual speed settings for the different types of lines being put down (outer shell, inner shell, infill, support etc) [*:3n9i7s3z] Smart bridging that can look at a bridge and decide what will create the shortest jumps etc. If you're going to span a 20mm*5mm hole you'd make it jump the 5mm distance first for example. [*:3n9i7s3z] Being able to specify roughly where the z-scar will end up [*:3n9i7s3z] When printing more than one separate object at once, pick where the printer will jump between the objects (to minimize surface imperfections). [*:3n9i7s3z] Another vote for the "staircase" issue. [*:3n9i7s3z] Something similar to Netfabb's half height outer shells. And not just the lazy skeinforge way of stacking two half height layers straight on top of each other. They should follow the outer shape of the object. Not much point otherwise IMHO. [*:3n9i7s3z] Different kinds of infill patterns [*:3n9i7s3z] Different kinds of top-/downskin patterns [*:3n9i7s3z] Basic STL manipulation, as in being able to rotate them properly. [*:3n9i7s3z] Speeed, lots and lots of speed After I started using KISSlicer printing became fun again. Being able to change a small setting, re-slice, look at the gcode visualisation (this is an essential feature as well btw), change something, re-slice etc in the same time it took cura/SF to slice just one time was a welcome improvement. [*:3n9i7s3z] Sometimes I've felt that I wanted to change speeds depending on which part of the model I was printing. Maybe something like a feature that lets you specify speed based on at what height you are in the model could work? So at z z4mm->z10mm set speed to 100, at z10mm-z30mm set speed to 30. [*:3n9i7s3z] "Good support". I don't really have any input here more than maybe doing support similarly to KS where it starts small and then as it gets closer to what it's supposed to support it branches out. IIRC Netfabb does it this way as well. It reduces material waste and makes it easier to clean. I think my brain has pooped out enough for the moment. Again, these where just random thoughts as I was typing. But all of them have been something I've wanted at one point or another.

They use that old tech because it's simple and very reliable. I've seen several people have problems with the more "modern" USB interfaces when used with CNC machines. A small hickup in a 3d printer is no big deal but when you have spindles running at several thousand RPM, metal to metal and far more powerful mechanics small hickups can lead to big problems. This is when controlling the machine directly from the PC. There are however controllers that connect to a PC via USB and buffers it's output to get away from the issues with USBs non-realtimeness (that's the technical term of course).

CREE makes lots of different LEDs. The "3W" seems to be something marketers like to slap on things These particular ones are pretty old tech that I happened to have a few spares of. I'm driving them at around 600-700mA, not sure, don't remember the exact output of this particular driver. With a vF of somewhere around 3.4V that would give a wattage of ~2. Of course I could up the current a bit to get to 3W but they're pretty hot as it is According to the curve of the datasheet they should be delivering roughly 150Lumens at this current. I have the slightly more modern XP-G as well but I picked the XR-E instead because of the slightly more directional output of them. I think a lot of light would be wasted if I went with the XP-G instead. Well that was a long "answer" to a short question... sorry!

Gave my printer a little upgrade in the light department. Had a few CREE XR-Es lying around so I wired up two of them with a little driver. Sorry about the blur, but you get the idea. Also note the professionally manufactured heatsinks undefined I printed out a couple of mounts for them. And of course I needed a mount for the switch. This is actually just half the mount, it was supposed to go on the outside. But... plug, another fu!#%ng plug put a stop to that. Luckily it fit just about perfect on the inside instead. And here it is lit up. It's quite an improvement compared to the desk lamp I used before. But I'm going to mount one more LED on the head as well I think. I just need to come up with how to mount it so I don't get blinded, it's painful to look at these LEDs. undefined

Those details are simply way too small for the relatively large 0.4 nozzle to produce. You might have better luck standing the model on its side to take advantage of the much better resolution of the z-axis. But that's still a lot of small detail in a very small area.

The day you start worrying about wasted material is the day you'll stop printing I have a hole grocery bag full of failed prints, off cuts, test prints etc etc. You just have to try to put it out of your mind and go for it

The reason that's happening is because it's such a tiny area gripping onto the tape. Any little small bump of plastic that has cooled down and gets caught on the head will just tip it over. With the perfect settings you should of course not get any bumps but hey, no one's perfect. You can help it stick better by cleaning the tape with some alcohol to get rid of any waxy and or oily stuff on it. You can also turn the z-axis screw a tick to raise the bed as it's laying down the first layer. This will really force the plastic into the tape and make it grip better. The easiest and most reliable fix though is probably to just add a very thin base to it that you simply bend/cut off when the print is done. Ideally of course your printer and gcode would be perfect and never leave any tiny bumps for the head to catch on. It's doable, I've printed some pretty thin tall stuff without having it topple over, but you have to be a bit lucky as well.

Since daid is the one behind cura I'm willing to bet a large chunk of cash that's what he used. Personally I prefer KISSlicer and it is also what I used for this print. I have Netfabb as well but I've given up on it, the developer is way too slow in responding to the community. Personally I wouldn't recommend you spend the money on it as it stands right now.

I gave it a go as well. This is at 0.16mm layer height though, saved some time Sorry about the white(ish) filament, it makes it hard to photograph. But that's the only "disposable" PLA I have.

No help here but I'm curious, why on earth would you want to use RepG these days?

That looks quite printable and it's an interesting model, I might give it a go tomorrow. But no promises. For now though I have to go to sleep, why can't I go to sleep at a decent hour *sigh*

It would probably be easier for someone to print if you uploaded the model

He's working on getting usable profiles included with KISSlicer from the start. He's looking for input over at the forum I believe. edit: No, it was in the google groups. Yay fragmentation!

This happens because the plastic shrinks when it cools down. PLA isn't as bad as ABS but it can still be annoying depending on what you're printing. The only way to stop this is to get a heated bed. There isn't any official heated bed for the Ultimaker yet but some people have built their own. Another alternative that works somewhat is to add an extra edge around your print or discs around corners to help anchor your print to the platform. You would make these very thin and then just slice them off with a razor afterwards. For more info search for "warp" or "warping" which is what it is normally called.

Uhm... by reading the graph on the right? It shows that yellow/white represents the peak temperature and that happens to be ~40C on this graph. And yes, I did read that you hadn't set the emissivity and my post was commenting on that.

I'm not sure I'm reading it right but it sounds like you're trying to put the fan on the inside of the fan duct? If so, that's not correct, it should be bolted to the outside of the duct after it is folded together. Here's a picture that shows the assembly from the side when complete: http://www.flickr.com/photos/ultimaker/8185677337/

Since it isn't adjusted properly the image doesn't really say much does it? I mean according to this image the extruder motor is almost as hot as the nozzle. Not to mention the hottest temperature is around 40C, I have showers hotter than that

But even with cooling you could still have the bowden pop out due to pressure and then you're right back at the plug again. Bowden popping has been by far the biggest issue I've had with the machine.

My google-fu was stronger than I thought hehe. I found the manual for IRSoft earlier but I didn't think it would be the software you were using. Either way, it looks like it might be possible depending on how the image was first created. See page 19 of the manual: http://aitproducts.com/media/downloads/ ... Manual.pdf Or do what Joergen said and just take a screen shot

bmt sounds like an internal file format for whatever software you're using. Is it not possible to export into some other image format?

It's great stuff. Nice solid colours and super consistent diameter. It just feels like quality when you handle it. I sound like a salesman but that was my impression when I first touched it. Get the rainbow pack and try it out, that's what I did. I just ordered some neon pink, orange, white and black a couple of days ago, should be here tomorrow hopefully. Pretty quick to ship as well: ordered: 2012-11-12 00:09 packed : 2012-11-12 22:26 It's a bit more expensive than your run of the mill spool from China but I'll gladly pay the premium and not have to worry about that variable. I used some old black I had the other day and it just pissed me off, it's going to the dump as soon as I get the new black in. I haven't tried the GID stuff myself but I think I read somewhere that the glow isn't very strong. Buy a meter or two and try it for us

I finally got my ass in gear and installed a second fan for additional cooling. I've been meaning to do it for months but just never gotten around to it. I printed out another one of Gijs' fan ducts and mounted it on a little stand-off of scrap aluminium. Then I gave both KISSlicer, my new favourite slicer (soo fast [insert Homer drool here] ), and the extra fan a test with the good ol pyramid. I'd say the results are pretty decent This was the worst stringing on it. Hit those with a lighter for a fraction of a second and they're gone. And there's a few small bumps on the inside of the front left leg.

Yup, to avoid the cable becoming a tangled mess in your pocket/bag. There are a ton of different solutions for this but I wanted to make something of my own. The main goal was to make it fully enclosed (that will be v2).

Does it say "there is something wrong" or does it give you an actual error?