IRobertI

Yes it does... Granted it's not very obvious but you can do it. Check under the Precision slider to the right of the main settings. There's a big ol button that says "Center" on it, to the left and under it there are sliders to change the position of the object. I use it quite often when I'm lazy and don't want to replace tape.

Well I guess I'm officially done with Netfabb then. I mean seriously, they can't even implement something as basic as retraction properly? How bloody hard can it be? And it's not like they haven't had time to do it, it's been months. In hindsight I wish I hadn't wasted my money, I could've bought a lot of filament for that money...

I offered to send some scrap pieces to a guy that is thinking about getting a 3d printer. I also decided to print out a few test pieces with different layer heights to give him an idea of resolution. These are (if my 4th grade handwriting didn't give it away already) printed at 0.02, 0.1 and 0.05mm. Do I get a cut if I sell him on the Ultimaker?

Finished off my fume extractor that I started on like 6 months ago.

Couldn't you just go with a smaller stepper with a larger gear ratio to make up for the lack of torque? Seems it would be much easier to implement.

Here's a quirky and probably too obscure and hard to implement idea for ya. Yesterday I wanted the ability to define different regions for different amount of infill. This would probably be quite straight forward if it was just based on height, but it's not... What I'd like is to be able to select, in the 3d visualiser, an area that will be sliced differently than the rest of the model. A simple box select would probably suffice. The reason is that on occasion a large portion of a model needs little to no infill while other parts need more (for strength). Another scenario where it could be handy is to specify different layer heights depending on where more detail is needed. Say the majority of the object is a simple box and then there's a small portion that is really detailed. It would speed up the print considerably if you didn't have to print the whole thing at 0.05mm to get the detail you wanted for just that tiny area. Speeds and temp would probably have to be specified as well. How's that for an idea? Oh and that pause at height feature daid added to cura recently, that'd be nice to have. And I'm not sure if it's been mentioned but if the slicer could handle the thin wall problem that would be awesome. As an example, if a wall is say 1mm thick some slicers will leave a gap between the two shells. If the slicer was smart enough to understand that one more internal loop/shell at 0.2mm (or 0.3mm with overlap perhaps for a stronger part) could fill the void that'd be sweet. I believe KISSlicer calls this "crowning" and it sort of works, it's not quite there yet but it's close (edit: a new beta just came out with improvements to that, maybe it's fixed already).

Some pictures of the problem print and the actual model will help greatly in figuring out what's going wrong.

It seems the store I usually get random hardware from is pretty metric centric, which makes sense since I'm in Sweden. Getting "american" sizes would probably mean ordering some. Yup, I've been very careful to keep as much as humanly possible of the bowden when I trim it. I've only had to do it a few times and I don't think I've taken away more than 2cm, if that. I also regained some length since I got rid of Owen's bowden clamp. But like I said if it fails again I'll go with the new hotend+a new bowden which should be on its way to me shortly unless the oompa loompas over at Ultimaker are slowing down for the holidays

Right, I've calmed back down to my regular mellow self now Looking at it with calm eyes I think daid is right that the cut wasn't straight enough. I was very careful while doing it but I guess I still messed it up. I re-cut it today and fitted only a single bolt between the PEEK and wood as the top one vibrated loose as there's no tension holding it in place on the slippery tube. I did a quick ten minute print first to get the juices flowing so to speak, then I let it cool down to solidify any leaked PLA and started up a two hour print. So far so good. I'll attempt a longer 7 hour print tomorrow (I'm not comfortable letting it run overnight, I'm paranoid about the very remote risk of catastrophic failure -> fire ). Joergen: I was going for an M7 nut but for the life of me I couldn't find one in the fairly well stocked local hardware store so I took a shot with the M6. They might've had some "behind the counter" as I think about it now, oh well. Time will tell if it'll rip itself apart. It goes against my principles to give up but if it fails again I'll admit defeat I think so I've ordered a new hotend+bowden.

That's normal warping. Unfortunately something that you have to live with if you don't have a heated bed. Sure, there are tricks to help minimize the effect like adding "mouse ears" to the corners, putting a brim on the part, print less solid, play with temperature, change when the fan kicks in etc etc but in my experience it never fully goes away.

Short and sweet. I finally decided to fix my bowden once and for all after it popped again after a few weeks of happy printing. So I put an M6 thread on it and secured it (HAH!) in place using two nuts tightened against each other with the wooden plate between. Tried a quick print, everything seemed fine. Started printing my real thing and BAM, the bloody thing pops again!? I.just.don't.understand.it. I haven't performed an autopsy on it yet, I yanked the cable and walked out... I'll get to that tomorrow when I'm not pissed.

I like it, very cool idea. The one thing that would worry me is if repeated bending of the plate would lead to it bowing up in the center and causing problems.

Just a simple LED driver for a couple of CREEs. It gets quite hot so I wasn't quite comfortable having it inside the duct. You can see the LEDs in the latest print thread towards the bottom

Done: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:37124

Thanks Actually it's thanks to you that I did it in the first place. It's been bugging me ever since I first put the machine together but your post finally pushed me to do something about it. The channels are indeed printed. They look like this: The funky waves in the larger one was an attempt to reduce stress on the part to make it warp less but also functions as screw holes (I used sticky pads though). Unfortunately they still warped quite badly for me (anyone wanna donate a heated bed? ) hence the short pieces rather than longer ones. I guess I could toss them up on thingiverse if there's interest?

I thought my solution turned out pretty decent

Isn't it supposed to be easy to swap nozzles on the v2 hotend? If so I'd just unscrew the nozzle and check it real quick if that's what you're suspecting. Heat it up, unscrew it and then let it cool down just a bit so that the PLA gets a little less runny. You should then be able to pull out the PLA in one chunk and it'll be easy to see if the nozzle is clear or not. I had issues a few months ago that I eventually traced to a clogged nozzle. I don't know how it happened, maybe some contaminant in cheap PLA or something. After I cleaned it out all was well again.

10cm would be cutting it close I think. The tallest things I've printed so far have been 12cm and 14cm. I assume you're talking about z-height resolution? Because I don't think 0.1mm is possible with a 0.4mm nozzle is it? For layerheight I usually print at 0.16 (don't know why, it just seems to work well) for good prints and go down to 0.1 when I want it more purdy. 0.1mm layers with the half height perimeters I mentioned earlier would probably keep me satisfied.

What if I hold you to that promise and start selling them for $200 a pop! Nah maybe not, I have no idea on price really since I have no idea about the costs involved Yeah, it's not easy... I don't see how I could get this to work with just two mould pieces, it'd get stuck in there. I'm thinking I have to have two main pieces and then a third coming in from the side to create the cavity where the buds are stored. And I'm guessing that will raise cost a fair bit. I guess I got lucky then. I just used some hobby paint that I picked up on sale at the local hardware store. I'm not sure on the translation here but it's a water based acrylic (acrylate?) latex paint for general hobby use. It doesn't bleed into the plastic as far as I can see but I do recognise the problem with it being spread into the fine ridges. Persistent scrubbing got rid of that as well though. At places where the paint was a bit thick (it covered the center of the A for example) I scraped on it a bit with my fingernail to help the alcohol get in there.

Thanks I'm actually looking into possibly giving Kickstarter a go for the earbud holder. Learning the theories of mouldmaking is... hard though. Apparently you want to make it so that only two halves are needed to make it as cheap as possible but I'm not sure that is possible with the current design. The text is actually really simple, it's simply indented into the model and then I used a syringe to fill it with paint. I overfill it a bit as the paint looses volume as it dries. After it is dried I scrub it with a rag soaked in alcohol to wipe away the excess. The original plan was to sand it all down to a mirror finish but... that didn't work out.

Is it happening at the same height each time? I don't know it might be a long shot but try disconnecting power and manually turn the z-leadscrew and see if it's smooth all the way. Maybe something is catching and making the platform stick temporarily. Seems very unlikely but I'm sorta running out of ideas. When I talked about manually lowering the bed before I meant by using Pronterface that is included with cura. It gives you a "control panel" for the printer so that you can jog the head around, feed plastic manually etc etc. At least I think it still comes with cura... I haven't used it in a while. As for measuring, a caliper is a great tool to have and even the digital ones are cheap and accurate these days. In a pinch I guess a ruler could do the job if you lower it a large amount each time to spread out the measurement error. Again, this is all a long shot so..yeah.. And yes, timezones are a bitch

Christmas is coming up and all my nephews want is cash. But, handing over an envelope is a bit boring so this year I thought I'd make something a bit more fun. So, I found this thing on Thingiverse. I redrew it, made a few tweaks and made it bigger so now I can stuff some cash in there (also, my earbud holder made top 5 on the most popular things in two days. Yay )

Maybe try lowering the platform manually and measure how far it goes each time? Maybe there's something wrong with the leadscrew that makes it fail at the same place every time?

Actually I think it is better to put it together yourself. You gain a whole other level of understanding for the mechanics of the thing when you do. If you run into a problem later and have to take anything apart you'll know exactly how to do it without having to try and backtrace the build instructions. As for it not working on the first go. I think that's highly unlikely if you've been careful and followed the instructions. And IF something isn't working right it can be fixed. There's a very high probability that someone has already had that problem and knows how to fix it.

Strange. Have you checked to make sure your filament measurement is correct so that it is not over extruding? Also, I just looked at your picture again and it looks like you have some melted plastic on the side of the nozzle, is your nozzle leaking? If it is and it's dripping molten plastic onto the print that could certainly cause a bump for the head to catch on.