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Everything posted by illuminarti

  1. Thanks! This is really nice. Got it working great on Mac OS 10.15, once I set up a profile for Cura in the SpaceMouse preferences (which seems to control the overall sensitivity). Had to tweak some of the scalings directions in the plugin to get it to work in ways that felt intuitive to me - which I guess comes down to whether you feel like you're moving the viewer or the object. But it's a very nice improvement!
  2. Hi catlover, and welcome to the forum. Congratulations on your new UM3 purchase, I feel sure that you'll find it to be an excellent tool, if you give it the chance. I should start with a disclaimer; a long time ago I was an active forum user, helping folks get the best out of their Ultimaker printers, but sadly I no longer have the time to be very active here, because I'm the founder and President of fbrc8, the company who built your printer, and which will be providing you with tech support to ensure you get the best out of it. I'm sorry that you are unhappy with aspects of your printer, b
  3. While it's not hard to find people with a technical support background, finding people with a 3D printing technical support background is just about impossible - so it's difficult to staff up quickly and effectively - there's pretty much always going to be a learning curve.
  4. Printers ordered through resellers in the US are pretty much all assembled in the USA. Printers ordered directly from Ultimaker.com for delivery to the US may ship from Europe or Memphis, TN, depending on where there is available stock at the time. If you order from Ultimaker.com, shipping cost is the same regardless of where they ship it from - 37 euros, I think. And whether you order direct or through a reseller, warranty support is available from fbrc8 in the US, in addition to any support offered by the reseller (if you go that route). As to pricing decisions, that's ultimately up to
  5. Yes, in at least one case, replacing the Bowden Tube made a significant improvement to the throughput, although it didn't totally fix the problem.
  6. There are two types of under-extrusion: 1) The extruder motor stalls and clicks back, causing a momentary interruption in material flow. This is what the extrusion test cylinder tests for; 2) The extruder consistently pushes out less material than is being asked for; until it gets incredibly bad, this doesn't cause any obvious defects in a single wall test like the the extrusion cylinder; the wall gets thinner, but remains intact. The cause of this seems to be related to the filament slipping in the feeder assembly when there is back-pressure resisting the movement of the filament. The knurl
  7. I also recommend not using the filament guide. It adds a lot of friction, as evidenced by the deep grooves that get worn in the underside of it, when it's been used a while (we see this on every printer that comes in for repair with a filament guide fitted). Not only is that adding friction, it means that you are getting ABS dust stuck to your filament and carried up into the nozzle where it can potentially cause problems. If you do want to use it, you can make it easier to insert by filing a small chamfer on the inside of the tab, as shown below.
  8. I think its inevitable that you are going to get more movement at the front of the build plate, just due to the distance from the anchor points at the back of the bed. That said, I would also make sure that all of your bed springs are reasonably well tensioned to begin with. The bed tends to droop slightly under its own weight, so that the springs at the front are less compressed than the one at the back, to begin with. Its easy to end up with them barely compressed at all - which will certainly cause the front of the bed to shake. Make sure that you tighten down the back spring until the te
  9. Also, when you received the printer, the extruder tension was not on the tightest setting. The printers are shipped with the tension setting in the right position to be able to pass an 8 cubic mm/s extrusion speed test, which varies on each machine due to the natural variation in the tension springs, and can also need some adjustment to allow for different materials and print styles. Generally speaking, the best position for the tension indicator is somewhere above the second mark from the top of the scale; higher positions indicate lower tension. You should avoid moving the tension indicator
  10. The cause of the cracks is exactly as was explained to you; the blocks crack if the corner screws are too tight and/or if the bearings are not properly seated in the head blocks when the screws are done up. There is a raised lip that fits into the groove in the bearing; if those do not line up, there ends up being a slight gap between the blocks, and when the corner thumbscrews are done up, the plastic parts get bent down in the corners, and the stress can crack the plastic. As has been pointed out, it's not a huge deal anyway. There's not that much lateral stress on the sliding blocks normal
  11. Everything listed on the fbrc8 site is in stock. When stock runs out, the item gets removed.
  12. I just wanted to let everyone know that fbrc8.com (Ultimaker's Official USA Assembly and Support Partner) now has Ultimaker filaments (PLA, FlexPLA, and ABS), as well as spare parts for both the Ultimaker Original and Ultimaker 2 available for sale and shipping in the USA. Shipping by USPS Priority Mail is a flat rate $7.50 on small orders and free on orders over $75. We have listed the most common spare parts on the site already, but we do have virtually the entire set of spares available, so if there is something you need that isn't listed yet, please email sales@fbrc8.com, and we will ge
  13. If you're not comfortable adjusting bed height on the fly, try using the wizard but don't use a piece of paper - just do it by eye: The first thing to do is to make sure that all of your springs are reasonably tight. If they aren't, it's impossible to find the right height with a single sheet of paper, because the tension on the springs is minimal until they're compressed a bit. So, look through the bed from front to back, and adjust the back thumbscrew until the terminal block in the back left corner is about 1mm from touching the lower plate. Tighten the front screws about the same amount
  14. Try removing the spool holder. I think the bed is catching on it.
  15. You would still be able to get warranty support for the balance of the original warranty - 12 months from when it was originally delivered. For North American customers, support is provided from our facility in Memphis, TN. We can supply parts for you to repair the printer yourself if needed, or you can send it back to be repaired. After the warranty expires, you still have the option to purchase spare parts, or pay to have the printer repaired by us.
  16. Hi Anthony - Very sorry for the dropping the ball on this one. I responded to your ticket, and sent out the part that you needed. Simon
  17. Yes, the new printers are a different size (obviously) so use different size panels, rods, belts and wires. And the Go lacks the heated bed. But all other components, including the printhead and hot end, feeder and electronics are identical.
  18. Thanks :-) For uploading images, see: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4525-how-to-upload-an-image-to-the-forum/
  19. What sort of thermometer are you using? IR thermometers are just about useless for measuring nozzle temperatures, because they either assume, or require you to set, a particular emissivity value for the material. However, the emissivity of polished metal is very low, and also highly variable depending on how clean and damage-free the metal is. The best way to measure nozzle temperature that way is to paint the nozzle with a material that has a known emissivity, such as a specific black paint, so that the temperature can be read directly.
  20. (US) Community Members - Apologies for the spam, but as many of you are aware, my company, fbrc8 LLC, has been assembling and providing technical support for Ultimaker printers in North America since last summer. We are located in Memphis, TN. Our team is growing rapidly, and we are looking to add a technical support specialist to assist users who are having problems with their printers. While we would prefer someone located locally, we are also willing to consider remote employees, since most of the work is done online through our ZenDesk helpdesk system. Therefore, I'm reaching out to t
  21. Yes - these are what we use for assembly: http://www.amazon.com/Wiha-Metric-Screwdriver-Precision-Handle/dp/B000T9XPQI
  22. 108-109 Ohms is the right resistance for room temperature. There are three places on the heated bed that you can measure the resistance - they should all be the same: Additionally, check the resistance at the other end of the heated bed cables - generally the best place to measure on those connectors is the little rectangular windows on the underside of the plug. Make sure the heated bed temp sensor cable is fully seated and plugged into the correct socket on heated bed board.
  23. It may not be possible to get the temp sensor out of the block; sometimes the crimping of the strain relief is loose enough that the metal binds in the hole opening. And there is a very good chance that you'll pull the wires out trying to remove them - in which case the only thing to do is to replace the sensor as well. Regarding the isolator nut and nozzle; I'd recommend caution when trying to assemble it; you don't want to damage the threads on either part, and the isolator nut especially is quite weak mechanically, as it has thin walls. I suggest that you take a look at the nozzle threads
  24. Which sort of printer is it? Either way, it's probably not a major issue. The temperature of stepper motors is related to the current that they are fed, and not the amount of physical 'work' that they do moving stuff. Even when they aren't turning, they are burning energy holding the coils locked in place until they are next told to move. They're also designed to get quite hot, without a problem. If you are concerned, you could potentially adjust the current settings - this is done by adjusting potentiometers on the stepper drivers on a Ultimaker Original, and by using the Maintenance ->
  25. The overheating of the connector can happen if the connector screw isn't tightened fully, increasing the resistance at that point, so that effectively the connector become the heating element, in place of the thing at the other end of the wire. Printers produced more recently have a spring fit connector there, rather than a screw terminal. This helps to ensure that there is a tight connection at all times. Part of the issue is that the wires may have solder on the ends; you should cut that off, and expose fresh wire to insert into the connector, and then screw it down tightly.
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