SandervG

Hi Ken, Thank you for your post. You were right with fixing the pulley when you were printing sideways. Except when you are not printing you should not let your printhead stay at a high temperature. It will either burn your material or the PLA inside will drip out, and your nozzle will be empty. Resulting in an underextruded first layer on your next print. The PEEK can not melt at 250º but since you also detected the blue led to flash that was the cause. This means it had a loose connection to the amplifier circuit board / thermocouple transmitter and at a certain point lost connection. It could no longer tell what temperature your printhead was and it kept on heating. Hence; a melted PEEK. The connection could have been easily fixed by re-inserting the signal cable in this amplifier circuit board. if the PEEK melted that can not be repaired, you would be best off buying a new one and perhaps a new brass pipe as well if this got stuck.

The prints on the SD card are indeed for testing purposes and to have some things available before you get into slicing. Nothing to fancy, but easy to print.

We have everything on stock again (except maybe ABS White, I should check). All the missing rolls are being sent out through this week and halfway to next.

Just warm water and a towel. For a small print like a robot, or most PLA prints for that matter, you don't really need glue.

Yes, I will give an update by the end of this week. Not just for the unlucky ones, but for everyone Thank you for your patience.

If I am not mistaken the ID of the bowden tube should be 3.16mm We have had some experiments with larger ID but we found the 'normal' works better. I do not think they were ever sold with larger ID.

You are welcome

What David says is correct, but when your payment is delayed because of some problems getting it through but the intention was to pay immediately your shipment date will be calculated based on your order date.

Hi Hacklord, I am sure our salesteam will be able to work something out but it would be best to contact them directly. Do you already have a ticket ID? You can send your request as a reply and if you let me know who you are talking to I will ask to look out for your ticket. Thank you for your time!

Could you perhaps send it again? I can't seem to find it.. True true.. i have a lot of PM messages

Hi Hacklord, please contact our sales team to inform them about your difficulties. We would be happy to help you place your order and make sure there are no additional and unnecessary costs. Thank you for understanding.

Hi Guys, Just like gr5 says, the coupon code was offered to those who ordered an Ultimaker 2 when the lead time on the website was severely different then the time they actually had to wait, and the code was limited to this group only. If I quote the letter included with the Ultimaker 2: '.. we offered a coupon code that could be used in the Ultimaker-store. This was much appreciated...' My apologies if this was not clear, but what I am saying is that this code was handed out already to an earlier group of customers, and it resulted in low stock on filaments. Hence, the letter. I hope this puts the letter in the right perspective. Thank you all for your time.

I would advice www.tinkercad.com I don't think it gets any easier then that.

Hi Stefan, Do you need a new set of screws? I can sent you a couple so you can replace the current one with a new one

I have just made some samples on an Ultimaker 2. Works pretty good. Don't know who supplied it though. printing at 50mm/s, 215°C and heated bed at 95°C. On one of the prints I had quite some stringing, and instead of it being fluffy like PLA it were a lot of small rubber elastic bands, which makes it more difficult to remove.

How do you mean an animated christmas display? Do you have an example?

Welcome to the community Donny! Great to have you with us and I am curious to find out what you will be making.

Hi Fabrice, Thank you for your contribution. Considering this is an english topic, would you mind replying in English? You could use google translate if you do not speak English. I don't think we should add too many gadgets or should invest a lot of R&D time in solutions that could help when a unit gets stolen. They shouldn't get stolen, that sounds like the best solution to me!

Hi Pikey, Thank you for your concern. In my post I said: 'With combined effort we have been able to prevent any delay in further deliveries.' So this will not affect their stock.

That won't work because that would mean someone has to actually buy the machine first, to discover if it is stolen or not. As a customer I would rather keep my money and not buy a stolen unit.

It is a very tragic event and it creates a lot of unnecessary costs and head aches. Luckily we can identify the machines by their serial number which is important. I don't think we should play detective by trying to catch the thieves, that is why we have police and law-enforcement. I think we should try to locate the machines because who knows how they are treated now and what damage they take/took. If they are stored in a very cold or moist environment. Besides, not all machines that were stolen were ready to be shipped out yet. That can and most likely will become a problem, and we want to avoid customers buying those machines for full price and have no warranty. Thank you Didier for your efforts to check Belgium sites, it is very much appreciated.

Dear Friends of Ultimaker, Since we first started with the Ultimaker Protobox things have been looking good. The future looks bright and through hard work we watched Ultimaker grow into a wonderful company with many happy and active users. It is amazing to see how the Ultimaker 2 was received by the world and we know that we are still on the right track. It turns out the Ultimaker 2 is so popular it makes people break the law, because last Sunday some burglars forced their way in our warehouse and stole approx 30 units. Luckily we have the serial numbers, so we can identify the stolen units. We would appreciate it very much if you could help us locate these units. By keeping your eyes open for any suspicious sales of Ultimaker 2's and notify us about it. Perhaps we can prevent these units from being sold and people paying the full price without any of the guarantees or warranties. Edit: This is what a stolen serial numbers looks like: UM2A07 - MES133755 With combined effort we have been able to prevent any delay in further deliveries. Any information will be forwarded to the local police. Thank you for your time.

Hi Richard, great print. Can you write up a short story about how you made this? I am sure a lot of people would like to know

I thought I should also contribute once again. Only days away before I can start my journey into the depths of Zbrush, so for the time being I can only contribute with existing models who we have all seen before many times. But I thought I would share this one. The red owls are printed at 20 micron on an Ultimaker 2. One of the ears is a bit messed up because I only printed 1 pair and the nozzle will stay on that tiny spot throughout the entire end of the print. Hence: Melty ear. I am printing 3 at the same time now, hopefully with nice and shiny ears tomorrow morning. Don't know if I already saw a 20 micron Ultimaker 2 print on here before. Anyone? The other one is actually one of my first successful woodfill prints from Colorfabb. Before I was struggling with underextrusion a lot, because I was using low temperatures. (I thought I was suppose to). But I cranked it up to approx 220°C/225°C and it went down easy. I did turn retraction off tho, next time I will try with retraction. Have a great evening all!

You are totally right, and that is on our agenda. Unfortunately not our top priority atm but they will definitely come!