SandervG

Do you mean you want to raise the temperature from 50mm/s to.. ? During the print or while preparing in Cura? During a print you can increase the speed if you go to Tune > Speed (100%). It is available at the home menu when you are in the middle of a print. 100% means only what speed you set in Cura, it can be 30mm/s, 50mm/s or anything else. If you increase it with approx 20% (80-120%) you don't really need to change anything else. Of course it depends on the complexity of the model if increasing the speed would be wise. If you want to increase or decrease it more, you probably also want to change the print temperature, as you want those two to be in balance. As a rule of thumb: 200°C - 30mm/s 210°C - 50mm/s 230°C - 80mm/s

I love how this became such an active topic again! Amazing things pass by, great work all you guys!

Hi Leon, I agree. I will notify Daid about this Thank you!

It is hard to say on the picture with that angle, but can you try to bend your fanshroud slightly either upwards or downwards? (based on the picture I think it should be slightly upwards).

I can only say, it never happened to me before. Perhaps David has a clue

Hi Shurik, Allow me to answer your questions: 1: Yes. There is no reason why PLA would not be good for this purpose. 2. Since you are waiting your Ultimaker 2, heat your bed to 70/75°C and you should have zero warping. To be sure you can add some glue that is being shipped with it, but I don't think that will be necessary. 3. The overhangs in this case are usually referred to as bridging. Considered they are relatively small you may need to use a small knife to remove 1 string, but that should be it probably. 4. Do you want to make it, or convert it in a printable file? For the latter, I would recommend Cura. 5. What colour do you want to print it in? My experience with PLA white is that it requires a slightly higher temp, so I would say Bed: 75°C , nozzle 220°, speed 50mm/s, resolution 100 micron

Keep me posted and if necessary I will help you out with a spare clip or a new tightner. (if it is just the clip, you can also print one? - more time-efficient).

Goed opgemerkt Kees, bedankt. Als ik het goed lees, heeft fablab013 deze zelfs ontwikkeld. Laat maar weten hoe dat heated bed werkt. De prijs is best scherp, als het werkt een interessante upgrade. Wij gaan zelf onze officiële heated bed binnen enkele maanden uitbrengen.

Hi Braddock, Sorry to hear about your bowden tube. Did you have to take it out a lot? How did you do this? I think it can have 2 reasons. - the white clip that holds your bowden tube has 4 small blades inside. If some blades are bend, it looses its function and can no longer hold the bowden tube. - By taking out the bowden tube several times the outside got scraped and is now thinner. The blades of the white clip can no longer hold it. What you can do is insert your bowden tube backwards. Does this help? (inserting your filament may be a little bit trickier, because the opening on the back is a bit wider (it will be on the front). Once you take out the bowden tube, you can also pull out the white clip and check the blades on the inside if you squeeze it gently. Do they all look OK? Let me know about your findings

Hi Geeks, Today I found out there was a delay with your replacement order. I was not notified about this, so unfortunately I was unaware that it wasn't send out yet. I was promised that it would be send out Monday and I will make sure this happens. Thank you for your patience and understanding,

Earlier this week I promised to upload some pictures of the framework we have lying around here. The very first ones I picked, could click them together without any force required. I took 3 pictures, and I hope they illustrate how well they fit. If you want me to take another picture from a certain angle, let me know Avi! If you need any further help, also feel free to ask. I hope you have a great weekend,

Ha Xeno, Maandag ga ik voor je regelen dat je nieuwe lagers krijgt! Onze excuses voor het ongemak. Ik had het ook al in het 'post your latest print'-topic gevraagd, maar via welke weg heb je geprobeerd contact te zoeken? Zoals David zei zijn we aardig bij dus dat kan het probleem niet zijn. Nog een fijn, okselfris weekend!

Great prints everyone! @ Xeno, how did you attempt to contact us? I am sorry if you did not get a reply, I am very glad you managed to solve it yourself. Please let me know, via a PM if you prefer, how you tried to contact us and perhaps we can find where it went wrong. Thank you for your time!

Hi Sara, Thank you for your post. I will look into your order why it has not been send out yet and get back with you asap. Thank you for notifying me. Have a great day.

Hi Toma, Thank you for your post. In our communication system I see you have been in touch with Simone, and she also replied to you with the information that your order was scheduled for week 6. It is the week of February 3rd. Originally your order was scheduled for the week before (8 weeks leadtime), so there is a weekend delay. I think the point is, like you say: ' but no luck to get a positive feedback yet.'. You have received a reply, but perhaps not the answer you were hoping for. Hopefully my reply clears everything, and you now know when your Ultimaker 2 will be send out to your address. If you have any further questions, please fee free to ask.

Yes, very interesting topic. They do look very slick. (by the way, as does the cube 3) Anyone? Feature-wise they do not bring a lot of new things to the table but appearance does count, and it would be ignorant to think otherwise. And it will probably lure a lot of customers. From my perspective it has a lot of nice feature from a gadget-level, but everything still needs to work. Now they have redesigned their hot end.. 'improved' sounds nice, but how does it work in practice? That is something only time can tell. Just like Daid says, most of the implemented features are things we also work on, or have considered. Besides the appearance, I didn't really have a wow-moment. 2014 is going to be a big year, and we will step up our game. Ultimaker-wise. I would like to quote 2 things said above (Drayson); - it is not important what you sell, but how you sell it. (again drayson): - BIG benefits of UM is definitely also the community and the great support - that´s something worth to place in the communication. 'Dim3nsineer - I have the same feeling but mainly because of an unclear phrase - is the printer made of cheap material or is the UM printing with cheap PLA?' Obviously, the material to print with is cheap. I will have another look at the text.

Hi Braddock, Thank you for your reply. I am glad you ask, because turns out there was some miscommunication and it needs to be 1mm minimal. If you aim between 1mm - 2mm you should be fine. The spring needs to create tension on the teflon part, and if it area is too small (less them 1mm) it can not apply enough pressure. Sorry for the mix up

Braddock!!! Wow, I am glad you are part of our community! Really amazing things you make. Can't wait to see what else you can and will bring to the table. Congrats on this yet another great print!

What you should also keep in mind, when taking your head apart, is to put everything back in the right tension. Where with the Ultimaker Original you had to be careful with the teflon insulator, with the Ultimaker 2 hot end you have to set the right tension again to the part just below the teflon insulator. The area marked on the image above needs to be 1mm / 1.5mm. If it is less, you have a chance of clogs or a leak. If you took the hot end apart and put it back together again, I think there is a fair chance this area is too small. Can you verify? gr5 edit: After further discussion, Sander says 1mm to 2mm is okay but less than 1mm is bad.

We are no longer shipping only Monday's and Tuesdays, but throughout the entire week. Your order is scheduled indeed for this week and most likely Thursday.

Ulti-blue requires a slightly higher temperature then most of the other colors, however not 245°C high. Have you tried different materials beside the blue? If you release the bowden tube from the feeder mechanism, how does the PLA slide through the bowden tube? When your hot end is hot, and your bowden tube is still free from the feeder, can you manually create a constant flow? Can you upload a picture of your filament, what does it look like after it went through your feeding mechanism? Thanks!

We are working on Dual Extrusion and we are planning on releasing it in a couple of months. We can not pinpoint a date just yet. But it is in the works I know, I saw it too. They look very next gen, I have to give them that. Well just see how it prints

Hi Avi, What progress have you made with your frame? With filing some parts, have you managed to successfully put it together? We build a lot of Ultimakers yes, but we run into fairly little problems, I can say rarely, when it comes to the dimensions of the frame. We are going to review the instructions for the Ultimaker Original and create a more organized version with instructions and tips&tricks. This was already on the planning. I am looking forward hearing what the current status of your Ultimaker is and if there is anything I can still help you with.

I am not saying they are exclusive nor that we consider Germany to be covered. And thanks Ian, Finally.. the boarders of Germany are made clear .. ( a joke comes to mind ).

I think by printing at thinner layers you solve a big part of this problem. Lower temperature may also effect it. Are both your fans working? I don't think you have to tune the material flow, it is an overhang-thing.