SandervG

Hi Andrew, I am sorry to hear you are experiencing troubles with your Hot end. I think the fastest way to get your hands on a new hot end is to order one in the store when it becomes available. If you sent an email to [email=sales@Ultimaker.com]sales@Ultimaker.com[/email] i will contact you asap when i can sent it to you. This will be either today or tomorrow. I hope this is a proper solution for you,

Hi Mastheraldo, Do you print with retraction/destring? With the standard feeding mechanism that is provided with the UM, this can cause trouble in your feeding mechanism. So i recommend to print without retraction, or use this printable upgrade: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:26094 If you do not, please check the tension on your adjustment screw. It could be that this is too tight, and deforms your filament causing it to get stuck in the bowden tube.

Hi Fluxline, The ID of the PEEK should be 6.35/6,40mm The deflection temperature i don't know from the top of my head. But with the new hot end there is an extra piece included to create some extra space between the heater block and the peek, so the temperature will be significantly lower in the PEEK. And therefore it shouldn't effect the bowden tube. I wouldn't say it is a design flaw, but it has a weak spot. The assembly is quite delicate, and this is one of the issues that is being improved with the new hot end. It is fail proof, meaning it can only be assembled 1 (correct) way.

I don't think i have ever shown my Ultimaker.. here it is: What a beauty ^^

There is also a big 'inhouse' difference. Beside the fact you can take it out much faster and it deliveres a more constant quality. We made the v2 drive bolt ourselves. So it took time to craft them, and it was a pretty difficult process to make them so it would have a constant and good grip. This resulted in a lot of bolts going to trash and cost a lot of time. So the v2 bolts that were good, probably are still good. But the v3 bolt is more constant, is produced a lot faster and you can take it out way faster then the old bolt.

It is VERY unwise to trim your bowden tube. It must be 100% perfect flat, like: |_| If it is somewhat crooked it automatically always has a gap what will cause leakage. We take real good measurements to make sure every bowden tube is flat on the bottom but if you are experiencing leakage, it could never hurt to check. You could check by placing the bottom on a flat surface like a table. If you decide to cut it, make sure it is 100% flat. But if you would go to support for a new bowden tube, we will most likely consider your bowden tube as unreliable. (we have to have some sort of guidelines). When you are assembling your extrusion head, and you are leaving a small gap at the side where your hot end is, make sure this is because you can not tighten it any further, instead of leaving a gap because it says so in the manual. If you feel like you can tighten the 4 long screws all the way, then you most likely have a gap between in your PEEK. Try to lower your bowden tube by 0,5mm/1mm and see if this makes a difference.

Hi Nik, Thanks for your reply! I don't think this is the right topic for this, but i will give you a brief answer on your post. If you want to go into it any further, i suggest you open a new topic We are aware of the filament issues, and it is keeping the Ultimaker from reaching it's full potential. But we are looking for ways to improve the quality of the filament or an upgrade so a small variation wouldn't matter as much as it does now. One of the solutions is a new feeding mechanism that is in development now. One other thing you mentioned was a new hot end. We have a new design on the way ( https://p.twimg.com/A1U5ZQeCcAMqsb_.jpg ) and more details will be revealed later on this week. The spikes in the power supply i am not aware of. What i have experienced is when a print doesn't make it through the night this is not due to something in the power supply, rather due to variation in the filament diameter. My intention is not to make a flying visit , i am browsing the forum to see if i can help. But the most secure way to get help from the team is to sent us a direct email. Another member of the team will make it's appearance soon, in the form of a community manager.

Hi All, Yeah it will be a good improvement on the Ultimaker. More details will be revealed later on this week, just a little bit more patience Thanks!

Dear MSURunner, Can you tell me what you have tried to move the printhead or heat it? It should have been sent with Marlin 2.0 But no worries: If you are using ReplicatorG, upload the firmware to Marlin 2.0 If you are using Cura, upload 'Default firmware'. This should help you using the UltiController. The flat grey cables are not the problem. They can give u 2 options, either you see 2 bars (which is wrong) or it shows the menu (which is good). Can you acces the files on your SD Card? Please check the firmware and let me know if this works.

whoops sorry, my bad. I misunderstood. I'll look into it

Hi Ian, Cool gear! What you said earlier about the failed prints sound like a filament related issue. I know It shouldn't be necessary, but you could for example drill a 3mm hole in a piece of wood or something, and feed the filament through. Then you know if it is capable of going through the bowden tube. It is not a mistake that users can not upload images. We feel like it is very easy to register as a member so it shouldn't be to much of an afford to register and be member of this awesome community, is it?

Are all your pulleys screwed on tight? Have you tried printing these objects on a different place on the build platform? For example in the middle, front right corner somewhere at the back?

Let's hope that is not the case! But what i meant was, what happens when a print fails? Is the filament grinding or.. etc? No we do not have a photo section, perhaps we could make a bust from the employees. Who needs a 2D photo, pf!

haha no that is not me! Although i am quite familiar with that expression What happens when the print is not successful?

Yesterday i made this print! I hope all the details are showing, because it is white it might be hard to tell but it is really impressive ^^ About 15cm

Hi CoolM8, Do you experience this with multiple Gcodes? Have you checked the Gcode? Look for ' Main G-code Reset extruder pos G92 E0 ; Being_Layer_Object z=0.10 Does it say to move the Z axis to a different coordinate? Have you tried re installing Firmware? Kind regards, Sander van Geelen

Can you upload a picture of your damaged PLA? And a picture of your current feeding mechanism? Do you have the v3 Drive Bolt? Have you ever tried to start a print, and feed your filament manually? (open the feeding mechanism, lower the adjustment screw). This will probably not result in a very good print, but if this goes flawlessly (no clogs, no grinded filament) it means every part of the process works as it should and the problem lies in your feeding mechanism.

Dear mprice, It could be possible that you have encountered a bug in ReplicatorG. We came to the conclusion that v35 has several bugs and we switched back to v26. ReplicatorG will (soon) be replaced by Cura, this will make the world a better place. For the time being, i want to advice you to use Cura if you are a Windows-user and to use Kisslicer and Pronterface if you are a Mac-user. I wish you a lot of inspiration and innovation with your Ultimaker!

Hi Robert, It sounds like the problem lies not in your Hot End. If you have received a new Bowden tube and with the measurements you have taken on your filament it sounds like this is not the problem either. Are you printing with filament received from Ultimaker? There are different types of PLA available, so the behavior could be different when you heat it. I also didn't see a reply on the comment if you put to much pressure on the Adjustment screw. This could and probably will deform your filament. Have you tried feeding 'fresh' filament through the bowden tube? Like when it hasn't been through the feeder yet. Is this different from the filament that has been through the feeder? I am looking forward to your findings, Sander van Geelen.

I didn't even finish my sentence and this is posted on the Blog post on blog.ultimaker.com/ More affordable shipping We’ve added shipping alternatives and negotiated with DHL to get better rates. DHL shipping costs are lowered by 20% as of today. For small parts under 200 grams, there’s a new, very affordable postal method (between € 8.50 euros for NL and € 13.50 Worldwide)! For parts and PLA up to 2 kg, costs are € 28.50 worldwide, and even lower in europe. Keep checking our blog, we will be updating it more frequently now a days!

Hi Tinsoldier, I am sorry to hear it couldn't be included in your shipping. Keep an eye out for the Ulticontroller, we are looking for alternatives on shipping (costs). - Sander

1511: Your order has been shipped, you have received an email about this. 1571: Yes, your Netfabb license is sent by email. There is no disk included. You should receive an email within a few days after payment has been confirmed. - I see there where some problems with your payment, i will check your status and see to it that your license will be sent or else someone will contact you about this. Your Ultimaker has been shipped last week. You will receive an email about this later on today.

hi Ginge, no worries. Yours will be shipped today if DHL doesn't fail us!