SandervG

I gave him direct message permission yes.

I send you a PM

Hi Nico, What about if you take out the the bowden tube from the feeder mechanism, heat your hot end and manually push the filament through. You should be able to feel if there is any additional friction when you enter the teflon tube. It will also give you an impression on how it works by ruling out a suspect of you problem (the feeder). If your filament passes through without problem I wouldn't mess too much with your teflon tube. Just likeeee I think Aaron said, you risk filing off too much and that will cause other problems. Have you tried to run a print with everything put together and some WD40 in your tube? When you remove your filament after a print, what does the tip of the filament looks like? Looking forward to hear about your findings,

hahaha! Oh Ian you... :oops: You forgot to mention my voice though No unfortunately I wasn't at the Ultievening. On Monday evening I always sport with my team so I couldn't make it.

If you go to submit a ticket you can just proceed without any hassle.

So it seems.. I have reported it to our IT-guys. Hopefully they are still awake, it is currently 2.30 am. Which makes me think... why am I here?

Alright, looks good. I am going to read the report. What is your thought on controling the flexibility in the bowden tube itself, and perhaps hot end?

Hi Hector, you should have received a note in your package that at the time of your dispatch we didn't have all colors on stock. If it is ok with you we will ship all remaining colors when they are back in stock. Is this OK with you? I will have a colleague from support contact you to sort out the details, thank you for your time!

Looks like the one I have at home.

For example, this is a dutch link I am sure you have them for each country. I tried sewing machine oil as well, but that DID affect adhesion, especially on the bed. With WD-40 I did not have this effect, besides deduction from friction it didn't have any side-effects, which is what you want. Also, I must add; a small spray is easier to dose then a squirt of oil. When I used sewing machine oil, it created a bit of smoke at first and later I really had trouble with adhesion to the bed. WD-40 didn't give me these results. Maybe these are not facts, but they are my experience.

I will try that. I haven't yet been very successful. Also haven't had a lot of time yet to try and in that short period of time mainly focused on the recommended settings (low temp). (except .8 nozzle, I want it to run on regular .4)

Besides PM I can also read the actual forum What is your current status for your Ultimaker? Are you looking for a new laser pack to replace the one you have now?

True, but if you could test it and it turned out to be the solution we then know what is going on and focus on how to solve it. As of right now we are still guessing for what the problem is. Hopefully your todo list will shine some more light on it. (I don't think it is temperature related).

Well, those are a few hours well spend. I read the entire 13 pages and wrote down some of my thoughts. I am sure most of them were already thought of, but I didn't really read any reason for it not to be true, or at least a hint towards a solution. What I think is of a great influence is the natural curl of the filament. I think the extruder has sufficient power to pull the filament in (but it is far from being 'overpowered') but it is struggling pushing it through the bowden tube. Simon also said it needs to make an 180° turn, and when it is inserted the other way around that can cause quite some friction inside the bowden tube. Have you tried inserting a small spray of WD40 in the bowden tube? From my experience this has never influenced the print, in a way that the oil may be visible on your print. For this same reason I have doubts with lazy susan, at least when it is lying behind your UM on the table, it will be inserted with an 90° angle. (first it is horizontal, and it needs to go vertical). I also thought perhaps you could try faberdasherry filament. It doesn't come on a reel, so it has less of a curl. Besides that, I know the quality is good. With the temperatures, I double checked and R&D told me that the 190-260 filaments can actually go up to that temp when you are printing fast (150mm/s fast). And I believe Stefan that is also what you experienced? Better results with a significantly higher temp? Stefan, what is your current status of the set screw in your teethed gear? And did you try to push some fresh filament (that didn't go through the feeder yet) through the teflon when you had it out? You should have 0 (!!) friction. Looking forward to hear about your findings. I am now 100% up to date about this topic and will be more involved

awwww a shame. Michiel is going to talk about his project egg, which should be very interesting! Jammer ook als jullie er niet bij kan zijn Harold & Kees, ik denk dat het wel interessant zal zijn! Op zijn allerminst een gezellige avond

I hope so! :grin: And all those cabinets underneath the printer will be filled with awesome characters!

Exactly, that is why I have the Ultimaker 2 downstairs, and my original (which also looks hacked) is upstairs - I mean, my Ultimaker Original is also rather reliable, but if I had to chose I think the Ultimaker 2 is more of an asset to a/the/mine living room

I wanted to show my happy Ultimaker corner for a while, but never thought of making a picture when I was actually at home. Until yesterday! :shock: So here is my happy Ultimaker corner, it is basically in the middle of my living-room, because it is quiet that is OK. If it weren't for the lights I would occasionally forget it is printing when the TV is on. Unfortunately, the picture came out a bit dark so I hard to edit the contrast a little bit.

Are you sure you installed firmware for Ultimaker Original and not Ultimaker 2? To be sure I would recommend to re-install the firmware for Ultimaker Original and see if that makes any change.

Hi Brian, Thank you for your post. I am very sorry to hear you are experiencing this level of frustration. I can imagine that with 12hours into a build it is frustration to find out not all parts are included. We check every Ultimaker Kit very strict to make sure all parts are present, but unfortunately with an item that holds so many parts, on occasion it does happen that 1 part is missing. In the end it is still checked by a human being. Luckily we have our support department to be there and help our customers and users. In our communication system I see you have contacted us on 01/13/14 in the evening (at least, it was evening here in NL) and Simone got back at you the very next morning. She also immediately created a support order so your missing bowden tube would be send to you asap. Now this part of the process could have gone down a little bit faster because your support order was not send out until after a couple of days. I am not yet sure why but I will look into it. I just want to apologize for the delay of these couple of days but I am happy to inform you that your bowden tube is on its way and should arrive at your doorstep within another couple of days. I hope your frustrated feeling will fade away when you can continue your build again and you can finally start your first 3D print. If you have any further questions down the road during the build or afterwards, please feel free to ask.

Yes, that is what I am going to suggest. I just double checkend and fixing will probably not be possible. The next thing is a replacement. We can either send you a new electronics board and knob so you can replace those. Keep in mind that replacing this electronics board can be tricky because of the display that is connected and the fat cables that have a tight fit within the cover. However, with some love and fiddeling I am sure it can be done The alternative would be that we replace your Ultimaker 2 with a new one. We can have it picked up, and once we have it back we will send you a new one the next day. It will be a few days longer then the electronics board, but it will save you the hassle of replacing the electronics. Let me know what you prefer and we can set the wheels in motion

Hi Tor, I took the liberty of moving your post to a different one, as it did not concern the lead time. (to keep things clear for future uses it is important to put it in the right section). I am not sure how easy it is to repair it yourself, I will look into it and get back with you! Thank you!

You can also check if both cables are still inserted in the back of your printhead? And if that is the case, have you made any modifications to the electronics or something downstairs? If you remove the cover, can you check if the red-silver wire is still properly connected and also they are still inserted in the header? I have seen one or 2 cases where they came out. I am guessing it is either one of these causes. And yes.. also do the water test

You can just binnen lopen for free!

Coming Monday, 27th of January 2014, is our next Ulti-evening in fablab013, in the centre of Tilburg. The address is Stadhuisplein 354, Tilburg. We have a few exciting talks lined up! - Frank Broos. A dedicated member of Fablab013 and spends a lot of time with 3D scanning. - Michiel van der Kley; designer and founder of Project Egg. The schedule on 27th of January at Fablab013: 17.00 - 18.00: Arrival. Find a spot for your Ultimaker if you brought one. 18.00 - 18.30: until 18.30 you have the chance to sign up for dinner. It costs €10 p.p. 19.00 - 19.45: Food! 20.00 - 21.00: Presentations. 21.00 - 22.00: Some time to chat, laugh and inspire. And of course have a drink or 2. And as always the talks will be filmed! See you there! - Ultimaker