SandervG

May I get involved in this topic? Given the fact I may be an official and this is gossip? :ph34r: We do have managers, several. I am community manager for instance. And we also have people responsible for sales etc. Obviously. We do are a small but very rapidly growing company. We are expanding our ways as we have (recently) got sales partners in UK and Germany (iGo3D). Germany being the second country being honored with a sales partner (proof of our focus) you could feel acknowledged. Obviously, we are aware that it is a rapidly growing market. But we do not want to rush into collaborations or partnerships. Those are important decisions and need to be made with care. We are working on a lot of plans, and 2014 will shine light on a lot of them If you want to put yourself forward as an Ultimaker-evangelist contact me! We can discuss your ideas and ours, and see how we can go from there. Our focus is not on playing it slow, but it is on playing it right. And work with capable people who have the same standards as we do.

Hi Avi, Yes, I will do that and take a picture to show you. All is made from the same batch of wood, so there shouldn't be any difference I also asked you to unscrew the Tslots in the frame before putting on your left panel. I think by screwing one side (very) tight, and the other side is still open, you can also deform the frame. Nothing that can not be undone, but this may also contribute. That the pegs are not aligned left panel and right panel can be, because it is not symmetric. It is to prevent people from putting left on right, etc. Obviously, the feet and bearings should line up. I will get back with you, thanks.

If it is only for a day this can be normal, if it is longer there can be a problem with documentation. I will ask our outbound operator to get in touch with DHL and sort it out

Thank you for your post. I didn't see it was on top of the right panel at first, sorry. I also watched the video. Could you upload some pictures with the new left panel in place? It is difficult to see on the video what the offset is because it is mainly recorded from an angle. And you are moving around a lot. Instead of hitting on the frame, can you push the left panel in place with some coordinated force? Perhaps it could help if you unscrewed/emptied the other T-slots from the frame, I think they are influencing your frame and the way it is now. Can it be that by manipulating your frame (paintjob), it has affected its shape/dimensions? Looking forward to hear about your findings,

You suppose to have received an email from me like 2 hours ago?

Thanks, we are aware of this. We are looking into a solution, it is an enjoying problem.

Hi Uma, Can you still get your screw out? I can set you a couple of new set screws if you want! Best wishes for 2014! Is the problem solved with the teethed bolt sleeve? Or do you also still have difficulties with the tension of the drive mechanism?

Welcome Porter, I am sure you fit right in! Best wishes for 2014!

Hi Chris, I will send you a PM. @ Hector, you are scheduled for week 3, which is the week from January 13th.

Hi Thomas, Thank you for your posts. Could you post a picture of how you have assembled your frame now? Can it be that you have bought your Ultimaker via MakerShed? I have been contacted by one of their employees a while back saying one customer had difficulties with its frame, I believe I recognize your pictures. What I also told him, from the picture I see on page 1, it looks like as if you have placed the panel 'inside out'. It looks like as if I am looking at the outside of the framework, but I can see the markings of the end stops. They have to be on the inside of the frame. My guess is that, since your replacement part of the frame also doesn't fit, this is again the case. To be sure, can you upload some images of how you have assembled your frame? I am looking forward hearing from you, lets focus on solving this asap so you can finally start printing Thank you for your patience!

PLA white is the preferred material I don't know how fast Michiel can reply, so I will do it for him.

Hi Middelbh, due to changed schedules with holidays and all they could not be included in the package for this one time. I have yet to send them to you, and all other which were send out. Tomorrow you should receive an email from me with your coupon code. I am glad she arrived home safe, looking forward to see what you can make with her!

Great project Michiel. I hope you also get a lot of support from our community!

Hi Uma, Could you send a picture of your current situation/set up? What does your feeder mechanism look like? It would be much easier to give some concrete tips on how to put it back together properly Thank you for your time!

It looks like it is a 'late' ornament for your Christmas tree, but I wonder how you are going to keep the 'M' in place

Hi Guys, I have learned about this as well today. I wrote a notification here: There are I think 2 obvious workarounds: 1: after abort, go to maintenance and move material. Rotate the button clockwise until you see material being extruded. 2: if you want to abort, just turn off the Ultimaker 2, and turn it on again a couple of seconds later. It is a known bug now, and it is estimated to be fixed around January 2nd. Thank you!

There seems to be a bug in the latest version of Cura's firmware. Cura 13.12 When aborting a print, the Ultimaker retracts filament but neglects to actually push it back again (prime). This will result in your next prints to start with an empty print head, and it will not be able to extrude anything. The best workaround would be to 1; not abort a print. If that turns out to be necessary you can also abort a print and go to maintenance > move material, and rotate the button clockwise to extrude the material. Once you see material being extruded you can stop and select a new print. Estimated is that January 2nd this bug will be fixed, but for the time being this would be the best way to approach this bug. Thank you for understanding!

Alright, looks like we are getting somewhere. Thanks George! - Simon, if you want to send me your ordernumber in a DM, I will send you a new holder!

Would have loved to see this Would be even funnier if you printed a bird and yelled, 'Fly!! ..Why won't you fly away!!' If you have your UM2 in a very cold room, you also may want to make sure your rods stay lubricated. And If you do not preheat your head, your nozzle will not run empty and you can easily select a job on the SD card and walk away. When the head heats after the bed, and you have a skirt enabled, your print should start fine. I think faberdasherry is great filament and always gives me super surface finish, however (especially with a larger batch') I end up with tangled filament. I am not very lucky on that regard.

Tonight is Christmas Eve, and most people will gather around the Christmas Tree and sing Christmas carols. During the next couple of days drinks will be served, tasty food will be eaten and most Ultimaker-users will be thinking.. ‘… I want to print something!’ ..You can! And you don’t even have to come up with excuses, it is all in good spirit to improve your Christmas Tree decorations! If you follow this link you can find a file that will make your Christmas Tree shine even brighter. It is a hollow Ultibot and it has a 10mm hole in the bottom, so you can shove it over your Christmas Tree lights. And it will definitely improve the Christmas Spirit, no matter what look you get from the Mrs! It is best to use translucent filament. Further instructions can be found in the description on YouMagine From Team Ultimaker we want to wish Everybody a Merry Christmas and an Inspiring, Loving, Creative 2014!

Just like with the Ultimaker Original, it is of importance that the bowden tube stays at its place. If it doesn't stay at its place anymore after you have done a repair of some kind, you either didn't put it back together properly or you damaged something while taking it apart. Can you upload a picture of your entire print head assembly? When you have fully inserted the bowden tube so it reaches all the way until the teflon tube, can you manually lift it up? If you can, either you scraped the outer surface of the tube with the clip. Now it is thinner, the clip can't hold it anymore. Or the teeth of the clip are bent, and now they can not apply enough force to hold the tube. You can test this by putting the bowden tube in backwards. (feeding the filament in may be a little bit trickier because in the normal way, the opening is a bit wider on the back end). If you have swapped the tube and it can not move anymore, the bowden tube was scraped. We could send you a new bowden tube so you don't have to leave it like that. If it still possible to manually pull it up, I think the clip is bend. You can take out the clip and take a look inside. Looking forward to hear about your findings,

haha thank you very much Ian! I will spread the warm Irish word in the HQ. But no preparing for Christmas just yet, since things are so busy we also work next week Monday, Tuesday and Friday!

For PLA I usually don't use glue if I put the bed up to 70°C If for some reason, like you have low overhangs or a very small footprint, you need a lower temperature you can use some glue stick. But if you have a larger footprint, try it without the glue stick at ~70°C

Hi Benkly, Your order has been shipped, and I will send you your tracking number in a DM.

Hi Guys, Assuming all your orders involve an Ultimaker 2? Perhaps it did not catch your attention, but in the store at the Ultimaker 2 section with details and product description it says, i quote: 'At the moment the lead time is 6 - 8 weeks.'. The fact that it says ready means your order has been received, the payment was received and it is now ready to be processed. All that remains now is the 6-8 weeks lead time. I hope you can have some more patience. If you have any further questions, please feel free to contact our sales team. They would be happy to help.