SandervG

You can send me the file if you want, but I don't think it is necessary. You can compare speeds on various ways. Like you can just compare the speed (mm/s), which I think is the most basic comparison. Because the Ultimaker has the extruder motor on the back, it (is suppose) to be able to move faster then any printer that has the motor on the print head. Because simply it is lighter, and when you move a heavy object around very fast you will have backlash etc. If you compare the total print time you have to make sure equal settings are being used. Like does it have the same amount of infill? Does it have the same amount of walls / perimeters? Is the model the same size? Resolution? Retraction enabled? Etc. A lot of things have a direct affect on the printing time.

Hi Oliver, Check http://www.damaged-design.com/92-enter-the-ronin model out! It is fully printed on an Ultimaker Original, so it is definitely possible Just takes some patience and skills! If you want to paint your model, I would get in touch with Braddock for tips. He is a pro :cool: For big PLA prints you don't necessarily need glue, for small prints maybe a hint. Just a little bit. If you use a lot it will actually make your adhesion worse, or can clog up the nozzle. If you use the heated bed, you don't need the tape. If you leave it turned off you probably want to use the tape.

At what speed do you usually print on both the UP and UM2? Is there a specific reason you are using these certain speed on the UM2, like maybe you haven't had positive results with higher speeds or something else? I am curious to know Thanks!

Great to have you on the team Lord Devil! I have printed with the Woodfill before a couple of times, and sometimes it indeed clogged the nozzle but nothing a needle couldn't fix. You can choose from 2 different Woodfills, and 1 requires .8 nozzle. So unless you choose that one, I don't think it is necessary to order a spare nozzle. What are you going to use your printer for? Perhaps you can also buy (if you do not yet have it already), a file if you want to smoothen some overhang? You probably have to tweak your settings (temperature) in Cura a little bit for different colors. I think it would be safe to buy from both us and Colorfabb. They have a good reputation here on the forums. You may also want to try PLA Flex, which I personally find a very interesting material to print with. Enjoy the anticipation

Hi Robert, Thank you for your post on the forums. Could you send me some details in a PM in regard of your payment? Like the date you made the payment, and what payment method you selected? Did you use a reference? etc. If you could also include your ticket-ID number that would also be helpful. I will do some investigation with our financial department to look for your payment. I would also like to add that you do not have to worry about an extended delivery time. If you are experiencing difficulties getting your payment through or confirmed we use your orderdate as benchmark for the delivery time. So this will not affect your lead time. Hopefully that is some ensuring information to start the weekend with If you have any further questions please feel free to ask and I would be happy to answer them. Looking forward to hear about your details so we can get your order sorted. Thank you and have a great weekend!

Hi somewhereinla, Thank you for your post. It is always great to get feedback, because it gives us the chance to grow and meet your expectations. Like Ian said, I am very glad that overall you are very happy with the Ultimaker which is what matters. But if there are things that can me improved from ordering until that point I would be happy to know. Coincidentally, we have just made another improvement to the packaging and it is being tested now. It mainly involves the bottom tray to make it stronger and can take higher impacts. I do not think that the pulleys had anything to do with the rod escaping from the sliderblock. A couple of times I have heard it before, but this usually happens during shipment, and the rod can be very easily snapped back in place by pushing it back in. Was this as easy for you as well? Can you let me know what the current status is with your end stop? I am glad you have managed to get 10m3, that is a great achievement! About the noisy fans, do you mean just the 3rd fan on the back of the printhead of also the 2 fans on the side? The one on the back should be rather quiet, but sometimes one of the wires inside the printhead are slightly touching the blades of the fan causing some additional noise. Could you check if it can rotate freely? Looking forward to hear about your findings and keep us up to date about experience

Lets talk about this sometime soon!

Thanks guys! Much appreciated!

Thank you very much for your contribution

Hi All, Rutger from our R&D department took the time to write down a small survey for our users. With our community being all responsive and involved and all I figured it wouldn't be much of a problem to ask a couple of minutes from your time to fill out this survey. It is about the mobility of Ultimaker Original / Ultimaker 2. Is it always at the same place, or moved around a lot and on what areas can it be improved. etc It would be much appreciated if you could spare 3-4 minutes to fill it out. The Survey can be found http://tinyurl.com/UltimakerSurvey. Thanks and have a great day! - Sander.

Hi Jono, I also just replied to you through the wiki and you will receive a reply shortly from my colleagues. I have also notified our outbound operator about the missing part, the fact it happened twice. You should receive your missing part asap. Thank you for notifying us about this!

Hi EldRick, Do you need a new glass plate, a new heated bed or an entirely new Z-stage? Of course in no situation our existing customers should be disadvantaged, new or old ones. (I prefer that no one gets disadvantaged actually..) If you could let me know what you need I can see what we can do for you. I think perhaps there is a mis communication. Looking forward hearing from you!

oh thát printer, yes I have read about it Exactly as you said, there was a lot of buzz around it and I am very curious to see what parts of it they can actually deliver. But don't let the full color fool you, as you can see on their samples they color changes are only over the entire Z axis. For example, if you wanted to print a chess board standing up (best example I can think of right now) I don't think that would be possible as it would require you to swap color several times in one layer. (Does this make sense to anyone?) In regard of your filaments, they do claim to have ABS: ' ABS supported with additional cartridges (not included in standard package) ' I think a part of the buzz was that a lot of their https://botobjects.com/latest-updates look like renderings. What is anyones thought on this?

what does your bottom surface look like? It can be completely perfectly smooth. Perhaps you can fine tune the bed leveling just a little bit more? And indeed the Z is more accurate then X and Y, but I don't think you will gain much because a phone cover doesn't have a lot of details in X and Y, and the overhangs will be quite difficult when printing it standing up.. My suggestion would be to focus on getting your bottom perfect, and print it flat. Plus you would not only not have to create a work around for this print, you will benefit from this perfect bed leveling every print! hooray!!

And one other thing I forgot to mention, 1 thing you will not find in any review is reliability. Any printer can have the best specs in the world, but if only 1 out of 15 prints come out successfully you still have a shitty printer .. I do not mean that in regard of the ProDesk3D Printer specific, but in any comparisons in general. And service. You will probably run into some kind of difficulty with your printer.. that is most likely bound to happen. What you want to figure out is, what will happen then. Will you be left out in the dark or will the community and Ultimaker (or a different manufacturer) help you out? That is information you want to find out, and best way is to look for first hand experience. IMHO.

I have not checked out that machine yet.. but how is the Ultimaker not full 3D? Or do you mean full color? :mrgreen:

..Is it ours? What color is it? You should fix your WB But no, that is not very common no.

Hi Chris, Thank you for your reply. Do you know why it never got through customs? Please don't worry about the shipping costs, we will solve this with you. I will inform our outbound operator to get in touch with the courier, thank you for your time! It is about time we can solve and close this permanently, and more important, get you back to 3D printing!

True.. but if you do this retraction doesn't work anymore because what happens at the feeder mechanism doesn't affect the seperated piece of filament. What I have already done a couple of times is: Prepare a new reel of filament. (straighten the tip) Very quickly open the feeder upgrade, pull out the filament Grab the new reel of filament, feed it up in the tube Close the feeder upgrade Swap the reels on the reel holder. While I was typing the above, I realized you had an Ultimaker 2. Because you can not manually open the feeder, I would recommend to use a little knife or whatever to shave it down a bit. It would even be better to make it too thin. You would hardly notice if it is only that spot.

Hi Enno, Could you send me your ticket number in a DM? It would be best to contact us and we would be happy to send you the missing parts. Have you double checked the packaging? Most of the parts you have missing come from one pack that very rarely has pieces missing. Obviously, it is possible but if they would be lying around somewhere that would be the fastest solution - Hobbed bolt, you mean the drive bolt for the feeder upgrade? My apologies for the inconvenience,

And clean the glass when it looks dirty or when you have done numerous prints. By grease, dust or excessive glue-residue you will have less adhesion to the bed

How about just being able to open it, but by default it is a closed unit? I can imagine with an open design you have more dust etc that can travel up with the filament? If you can just open it to see if it is running properly (with something as simple as a hinge?) but also have the option to close it wouldn't that be better?

I think by itself it is already remarkable that someones absence is being noticed. Shows what an involved community we are

Yes.. Or do you think Germany is to specific? I don't want to exclude anyone. So how about we focus on the western Hemisphere? You are from Leipzig, dunno about Skint or Albert but perhaps it would be fun to host an evening in the Leipzig-area? Where people can gather with their Ultimaker, have some drinks. Share your experience and knowledge, favorite hacks. Or just go to a bar

I agree.. Stefan I you the best, it is a shi*tty situation. Take care man!