tomnagel

and embedded fw as well. Support for the new materials is already visible in firmware version 3.6 that was released last week.

The combination of UM materials with Cura with default profiles should *never* jam for materials like PLA and ABS. Mixing the two in one print core is not advised, but should work most of the time. Flush the old material out, beginning at the higher melt temperature. Embedded sw does not (yet) do this. PVA is a different story, although with UM PVA, Cura and default settings it does work reliable, but you have to watch the climate. Stay below 28degC and 55% humidity and you're fine. Above that, reliability goes down. Do you use ultimaker materials? And do you use Cura, with the default profiles?

What material do you use?

Better upgrade to Cura 2.4 or 2.5 beta. Prime tower has been disabled for all print profiles because oozing was solved differently.

Did you merge the models? Select both models, right click and choose merge. Take a look at the resources pages on the website of Ultimaker https://ultimaker.com/download/25250/Cura%20print%20guide%20-%20Printing%20with%20two%20colors.pdf

working on it... Cura 2.5beta already "knows" them.

Some considerations about the orientation on the build plate. - the way you have it oriented in the picture in your opening post will need a lot of PVA. But it will probably have very good results. the clickfingers on the bottom will be printed accurately - if you rotate the part 180 degrees ("upside down"), less PVA will be needed, but the PVA to support the click fingers needs to attach to the PLA. This is not 100% reliable. An improvement has been made in Cura 2.4, by lowering acc and jerk of the interface layers, so be sure to use Cura 2.4 (not only for this reason). - maybe the best orientation is to rotate the part 90 degrees. The 3mm horizontal expansion that is standard enabled for PVA will make sure the PVA that is connected to the buildplate (and adheres very well) is also connected to the PVA that is built in the shell, keeping it in place. Second benefit of this orientation is that the top of the shell will be much nicer, because you don't get the height lines on this surface. It will enable you to increase the layerheight, and decrease printing time.

thanks for sharing!

I think there should be some info on bridging. Play with layerheight and fan settings.

Has anyone ever tried to put some (silicon?) oil on the outside of the nozzle? I'm guessing it would prevent material to stick to the nozzle.

Alright, much better already. The printing profiles in Cura are designed to perform well on most models. Therefore they should be a good starting point. Your model needs bridging, and I can imagine tuning the profile will help. Only I personally don't have experience with bridging. I guess layer height and fan are important parameters. Maybe someone else can help, and I'm sure if you browse this forum, there will be tons of tips.

I agree the result is disappointing. You printed the part with default settings, yet you say you decreased speed and increased bed temp? That seems contradictory to me. what Cura version did you use? Which profile? Could you try again with Cura 2.4, and all settings default?

Very much depends on what you are looking for. Stiffness of PLA is often a little higher, but it is more brittle. But there are PLA variants which have some other polymer mixed into it to make it less brittle (but what that does for stiffness I don't know) The real big drawback of PLA is that it is not temperature resistant, it gets soft between 50 and 60degC, which e.g. means that you cannot use in your car interior. I often find that PLA is undervalued by mechanical engineers who somehow think ABS is better in every sense. @Ronan: Nylon/PVA is a supported combination and works very good. Ultimaker has put a lot of effort in the printing profiles, so if you use Ultimaker materials, you should be printing hasslefree.

@bschulte turn the part upside down, and use PVA as support. It will create a very good surface. If you lift the part 0.6mm from the buildplate, you will prevent a shiny circle in the middle (bc it rests on the glass). Be sure to use Cura 2.4 (not the beta), as this has the best PVA/PLA profiles.

The best settings are made default in Cura. Use Cura 2.4 for the best result. If you don't have good results with these settings (for Ultimaker PVA), you must not look for settings to solve your problems, but you must look to the hardware. When PVA is concerned, chances are your print core is (partly) clogged. This causes underextrusion, and that may cause something that looks like layers not sticking together. Use the instructions on the UM website to clean your BB core.

@gr5: the glass plates have some tolerances, and are certainly not always the same. Your instructions will not work for everyone. In this case: @HPx_3D you combine ABS and PVA. That combination does not work, because the two materials don't stick. Sometimes it works, but it is not reliable. In any case: consider upgrading to upgrade to Cura 2.4. The printing profiles are getting better and better, and Cura 2.4 contains other tricks to suppress oozing. Wipe towers are turned off by default. Saves a lot of time too. Do you really need ABS? Care to explain what your requirements to the printed part are?

Play with it if you like: It is assumed the 0.4mm print core is in slot 1, and the 0.8mm print core is in slot 2 3 thin walls will be replaced with one 0.4mm wall and one 0.8mm wall. 1. Load your model. Select the normal profile (0.1mm layerheight). Select "discard current changes" in the profile menu to be sure everything is set to default. 2. Load a cube. 3. Turn off the option that Cura separates your models 4. Resize and position the cube so that it encloses your model, except for the top of your model (otherwise you can no longer select your model) 5. Select the cube, and on the left side choose "per object settings", make visible the option "infill mesh", and select it. From now on, Cura no longer sees the cube as an object, but as a region where local slicing settings can be applied. 6. in the per object settings a. select the cube to be printed with extruder 2. b. Set line width to 0.8mm c. Set wall line count to 1 7. On the right side, with extruder 1 selected: set top/bottom thickness to 0.1mm 8. On the right side, with extruder 1 selected: set wall thickness to 0.35mm 9. On the right side, with extruder 2 selected: set infill layer thickness to 0.4mm 10. On the right side, with extruder 2 selected: set top/bottom thickness to 0.8mm 11. if you are satisfied, resize the cube so that it fully encloses the top of your model Check the layerview with what is happening. This is not a very good description, but it will get you going.

Nice! is this anywhere on a roadmap? Cura 2.6? It can already be done with the current Cura 2.4. It is however not easy, therefore I want this how-to to be published. Once you know it, it is not so difficult.

Nope, but with a 0.8mm print core we can...

We'll have to find out, I don't know. If we can publish the how-to, you may want to try for yourself.

Cura can already do that, albeit it is not easy. I'm trying to get a "how-to" written, because with some instructions I think everyone can manage. Here in UM HQ we're combining 0.4mm print core with 0.1 layerheight (for the outside) with 0.8mm print core with 0.4 layerheight (for the inside). The result is a beautiful print at more than 50% reduced print time.

And did you upgrade firmware recently? Changes to the colors were made, I think in 3.5. Red was seen as 'error' by too many people.

To diagnose what's going on, you may want to update to the testing version in the upgrade firmware menu. Then, see what materials are read when both your spools are installed on the spoolholder. Maybe your pla spool is incorrectly programmed.

Wait. I don't know the right details but I have seen mentioned on this forum that certain settings or profiles etc. survive reinstall. @ahoeben, can you help?

Shutting up not necessary. I think this is good input!