tomnagel

Please don't use the testing version 3.6.90: see https://ultimaker.com/en/community/45629-testing-firmware-3690-do-not-install-use-the-stable-version-instead

* XY calibration was done in the factory for the AA/BB combination (only for the AA core that was in the printhead in slot 1 when you opened the box). You shouldn't have to rerun it. Does your printer tell you to run the XY calibration? * Is there enough material flow? Is the nozzle indeed too high when printing? * do you have Active Leveling turned on? (should be turned on by default). That should determine the print height accurately

Hi @Hokololo, this is normal, you will not lose your BB print core through this.

is autoleveling turned on? Not only does it map out the skew of the build plate, it also accurately measures the z-offset between the two nozzles. For layer adhesion between the two materials this is crucial. To give smaller pieces of PVA somewhat more body, you can consider increasing horizontal expansion to 5mm or so. It will cost you more material though. The "worms" on your first picture of your post of 23 april surprise me. Is that ooze? or is that extruded material that was supposed to be printed somewhere where the structure below broke off? Did you use Cura 2.4 without any changed settings?

Have you tried printing with Cura 2.4 or 2.5, with all settings at default? The default printing profiles are pretty good, and should give hard-to-beat results with most models. Try to stay away from custom mode before you have had good results with recommended mode.

Did you already discover /temperature.html ? Nice for the nerds among us

part of the info you are looking for is in the Ultimaker 3 app. Is that an option for you?

0.8mm nozzles will be released soon. Profiles are already in Cura.

I had the same with my Ultimaker original, also not so very long after I changed the teflon part and the nozzle. I noticed that underextrusion only happened at startup of the first print. When I aborted, and started the print the second time, it printed fine. I never got around to solving it, because I installed an UM2+ upgrade in my UM original. But I think there is a ridge somewhere where the cooled down PLA gets stuck.

Yes.

Please read the "how to print with Ultimaker ABS" document on the website. It says:

Are you using Cura 2.4 or higher? From the release notes of 2.4: Hope that helps you.

@slicerglitch I hope you are happy with the answers. Looks to me the choices that were made were pretty good and well thought through. You may want to read your initial post again and apologize for the tone.

Ultimaker ABS has a very strong adhesion to glass. It's actually too good, that is why glue is advised. The glue is actually the breaking layer between the glass and your ABS object. We've never tested the thinned glue layer as you describe.

Both printers are running the same firmware? The first layer is also influenced by the flatness of the glass plate. You could switch the plates to see if that makes a difference. Do you feel that you have a problem?

But why would you want to calibrate esteps/mm?

This was printed without support, with PLA.

I stopped printing via USB, as the development team was not improving that. I switched to printing from SD card, and never saw the problem again.

So I'm not sure this is what you are looking for. There is hardly any material extrusion between retractions, that what makes this print so challenging. Maybe a direct drive extruder would do better here. But it will be a challenging print for any FDM printer.

I printed the eiffeltower from Thingiverse, on an UM3. It is a challenging print! I changed 1 parameter: I disabled "Z hop when retracted" in the normal profile (0.1mm layerheight). See the pictures for my result.

I can't review your files here, but have you checked the layer view? Does support continue in the layer view, where your printer stops printing it?

And you might want to switch to Cura 2.4, where prime tower is disabled for all default profiles. This saves you time and material.

Well, signals in your printer are susceptible to electromagnetic fields from other electronic equipment. There's regulation for that, and we passed immunity tests for this. However, if you put your printer next to an old milling machine with sparking DC motors, communications inside the printer can be affected. My own Ultimaker original would often quit printing over USB when I turned on a 12V halogen lamp on my desk.

I hope people don't get annoyed by me repreating the same message in different forum topics: as a beginner with the UM3 (even when you are an experienced UM2 user) don't try to tweak the settings that are in the default profiles. The object you have in the pictures looks like a very simple object, that would need no changes to settings at all. Don't increase the infill, don't manually change layerheights don't tweak the temperatures etc. Use the stable release of Cura (2.4), and you will be fine. When you get to know the printer and its behaviour, you can maybe optimise the settings more towards specific designs that you print.

I hope people don't get annoyed by me repreating the same message in different forum topics: as a beginner with the UM3 (even when you are an experienced UM2 user) don't try to tweak the settings that are in the default profiles. The object you have in the pictures looks like a very simple object, that would need no changes to settings at all. Don't increase the infill, don't manually change layerheights don't tweak the temperatures etc. Use the stable release of Cura (2.4), and you will be fine. When you get to know the printer and its behaviour, you can maybe optimise the settings more towards specific designs that you print.