tomnagel

You mention you use the latest firmware in your opening post, but I don't see a version of Cura mentioned. What materials are you printing with? Cause the materials I print with have the primevtower disabled by default in Cura 2.4. (PLA, PVA). If your prime tower is on by default, I am pretty sure there is something wrong with your Cura installation.

Please upgrade Cura to version 2.4. The wipe tower has been disabled for all profiles, since oozing has been suppressed with smart temperature tricks at start and end of each layer. I'm glad you mention you use the default profiles. Please keep doing that, at least until you have gotten good results. Of course, these profiles were optimized for UM materials. When using other profiles, your mileage may vary.

Make sure support is not only unselected, but that it is coupled to extruder 1. So first turn on support, select extruder 1, and unselect it again. Also, make sure that brim/skirt is printed with extruder 1. Not very logical, but this is how it works now.

Neotko, you have really a way of twisting and making sour remarks. This has nothing to do with marketing whatsoever. It is about new knowledge dripping in in our young company. We're learning every day, just like you. We're trying to be open, also with new knowledge we're apparently wrong about. Please stop seeing every bit of communication as a great conspiracy of the ever growing company Ultimaker.

The two sides are not the same, though the difference is not large. When the glass is manufactured, at some point it floats on a pool of molten tin. Therefore, glass has a tin side. The tin leaves traces in the glass, which changes its properties. There is probably enough info on Google on this. It's best to use the non tin side. But: we only recently found out about this. So stickers have not been put on a certain side. We are currently speaking with our supplier to arrange this. It's not a big effect. It is much more important to use a clean glass plate, make sure your bed is leveled accurately (or use auto leveling on UM3) etc.

Tpu95a is semiflexible material. The funny thing is that when you print this stuff with limited infill you can make highly flexible parts.

The UM3 connects to a LAN. The LAN needs to have DHCP. The videostream of the printer is then accessible to everyone on that LAN. Printjobs can be sent and paused/canceled only only after a user has been authorized. Cura then asks to press a button on the printer to get this authorization. This means the user must have physical access to the printer to become authorized. It is not possible to tie the printer to a domain. The printer allows third party materials to be loaded. The NFC chip on Ultimaker material just makes that the printer recognises which material is loaded, so this can be relayed to Cura. Cura printing profiles are tuned towards Ultimaker materials. The TPU95A material is currently the only flexible material that UM offers. Printing profiles for the UM3 are not yet available, but will be later this year. Ninjaflex is (much) more flexible, and is hard to print on a printer with a bowden tube (like the Ultimaker printers). In many applications, high flexibility can also be achieved with TPU95A, by varying the infill. Saves material as well. Note that when using non-Ultimaker material, limited warranty applies.

The setting is called horizontal expansion, and is extremely important in e.g. PVA support printing.

Instructions to clean your print core with hot pulls and cold pulls are here. The AA core can be cleaned in the same manner, however, that is seldomly necessary. You state that you think your nozzle is clogged. What makes you think that? If there is a mixture of Nylon and PLA in your print core, manually set the temperature to 260, and press some Nylon through the print core. You can best do that directly from the top of your printhead, after removing the bowden tube. Instruction are in the document linked above. Make sure you put the print head in one of the corners, to prevent bending the shafts that suspend the printhead. We advise to use different print cores for different materials, so flushing it is not necessary.

I am still pondering how this could have happened. the temperatures in the cold end of the print core are well below 60 degrees, and so high up certainly below 50. The feeder can push with about 80-90N, that can never be enough to deform the plastic. Try it yourself, even double the amount will not deform it. So either the front fan was not on or blocked, or the front fan bracket was open. That could lead to higher temperatures in the cold zone.

As a matter of fact, for XYZ calibration this warning is given. However, what happens with switching bay location data I don't know.

* You did a factory reset. Maybe that has caused the printer to forget the exact position of the switching bay. there is a procedure to calibrate the location of the switching bay. * another possibility is that your bed is too high. Look closely when the leveling procedure starts. The bed goes up at a high speed, and should stop 1-3mm below the nozzle. Then, it slowly (0.4mm/sec) moves up. If the bed is too high, the bed is already touching the nozzle when this procedure starts. It then cannot find the nozzle, and will lift the lower nozzle until it hits the 2nd nozzle. Use the screws below the bed to lower it a few mm. * Third possibility is that there is plastic on the printbed or on the nozzle. Both should be clean.

When disconnecting the wifi board you are accessing sensitive electronics. Take ESD measures: Use an ESD wrist strap, or at least touch the sides of the dibond frame panels before and preferably during this procedure. This will prevent ESD (electrostatic discharges) damaging your control board.

I really like UI side of the slic3r Prusa edition. Seems rather intuitive, well thought out. You see what you are doing in the vertical bar, but also in the 3D view, where the section that you are modifying is highlighted. The combination is great.

In your pictures it seems that the brim is printed fine, and is attached nicely to the bed. Can you confirm this? If so, I would say bed leveling is fine. What slicer did you use? If you used Cura, did you use the default profiles?

Did you press the collar, before/while pulling the bowden tube out? Removing the clips is not enough.

A few examples of the boundaries we tested with are in my post. I think in this case, the relevant boundary is that we tested with the Cura profiles. The point I am trying to make, is that we have gone to great lengths to test retractions. I am therefore convinced that our printer will perform very good in this respect in most cases it is used for. Anyone is free to push the limits. I'm glad you have pushed the limits. You went beyond the limits of your stock UM printer, by upgrading the feeder (and maybe more).

I see the filament that you are using is 3.00mm. UM3 is designed for 2.85mm filament. link This might explain your grinding problems. Have you checked whether or not the filament is abrasive? Beware that there is a brass nozzle in your print cores. It will quickly wear out. Wear resistant print cores are not (yet?) available.

well that is strange. Our torture test is printing a cube with around 400 separate hollow cyclinders. the cube is around 10*10*10cm, and takes a few days (3? 5? I'm not sure) to print. Between every cylinder, the filament is retracted, so there is about 1 retraction per second, for days in a row. If we print this cylinder at 0.06mm layerheight, the amount of retractions is huge. And the amount of retractions per mm of filament is unrealistically high. We have spent a lot of manyears engineering to get this absolutely problem free. So therefore I dare say: retractions are very very very reliable in a UM printer. However: this is tested within certain bounderies. We tested with Ultimaker materials. We tested with Ultimaker Cura printing profiles. We tested between 15 and 40 degC. Etc etc. Maybe you print outside these boundaries. I think you have really tuned your prints on high speed and high flow. Maybe the feeder forces in your circumstances are therefore outside the range we tested.

Yes! Although it might be irritating waiting for the printer finishing up, those procedures have been implemented to prevent problems later on. For example, before retracting the filament to parking position, the printer lets the hot-end cool down just a little bit, to prevent creating a very thin part of filament, with a thicker blob behind it. When you have such a blob hanging on a thread at the end of your filament, chances are this blob ends up in your feeder when unloading the material later on. Another example: unretracting filament and priming is done at excruciatingly slow speed, to prevent grinding when the filament position is not what the printer thinks it is (user was fiddling...).

read the opening post: it is an experimental snowboard binding.

Maybe you should switch to Cura 2.4. Prime tower has been disabled for all profiles. Oozing has been suppressed with fancy temperature tricks. As always I advise: use the default profiles, and use UM filament. The combination performs very good!

My experience with the Cura profiles is that they are very good. So I'm surprised that you have unsatisfactory results. I read that you have tweaked settings. Did you try to print this with default settings? Which profile did you use? Maybe, just maybe your Cura is corrupt. I think I have read reports on this forum about issues with Cura that were solved after reinstalling Cura.

There is something wrong then. If you provide some extra info we may be able to help you. Erin has already asked the most important questions. Retractions, however, are no issue. The whole system can easily do extreme amount of retractions, we have done numerous torture tests on this.

Yes. If the front fan is working, the double heat break in combination with the front fan prevent the TFM insert from burning. We've designed the hot-end for use up to 350 degC. The limiting factor in the printer is currently the silicon flap in the bottom of the printhead, which is rated up to 280degC. That's why we specify 280degC as the maximum operating temperature. But 300 degrees will burn most polymers inside the hot end. But nothing a good cold pull won't solve.