tomnagel

That is a thing of the past, bad bearings in the UM2go. So if you want to replace things, first consider your bearings. Remove the connection with the nut, and feel if there is friction somewhere along the whole height of the z-shafts. If there are no "heavy points", then an anti back-lash nut does not add value. If there are "heavy points" then change the bearings.

but what use is the anti backlash nut when the z-stage is already pre-tensioned by gravity?

I recently tried to dry a spool of Ultimaker Nylon in my oven set at 65 degC (checked with meat temperature sensor). It sat in the oven for 3 h, but it didn't help in getting the material to print well. A colleague told me that part of this water can be chemically bonded. Then, drying is impossible. This is all not scientifically proven, but my take was that it is really important to keep this stuff in a dry environment, similar to PVA. Are you using Ultimaker Nylon? That is more resistant to ambient moisture than most available brands of Nylon filament. Up to 50-ish % I guess. Above that, things go south.

Thanks for sharing your results. It's not what I expected, I expected a bigger difference between cold active leveling, and hot active leveling. I think you run active leveling separate from your print job. It is slightly better to run it as part of your printjob, because then the inaccuracy influence from the z-home sensor is cancelled. (standard deviation around 10mu).

7 degrees difference between center and edge is not a problem.

If you select 0.4mm nozzle for extruder 1, and 0.8mm for extruder 2, you can only select the 0.2mm profile. Because that is the only profile available to both. With 2 different materials selected for your 2 extruder as it probably works the same (not entirely sure). But since all default materials have (almost) all profiles I think that cannot explain the behavior you see.

Please study the spec of this glass again. The "D" they are referring to is not the thickness of the plate, but the diagonal of the plate. This means at least their specification is not very interesting. In practice it might be flatter than ours, but I doubt it. The unflatness is created in the tempering oven, where the plates are transferred on rollers at a very high temperature. As far as I know, all glass mnf use the same method. The UM glass plates which are in the sales channels now are good. In the past there have been bad batches, and as far as I know all customers with complaints were dealt with by our resellers and sales partners.

I stand corrected, this was not formulated very well. The printing profiles give a good printing result for most models. But optimisation for specific models or wishes (like mechanical properties or esthetics) is often possible. But most people underestimate the amount of work to optimise settings for their model. It is very easy to drift off in the wrong direction, and become frustrated with the result. It takes a lot of hours to become acquainted with the printing process.

That I cannot explain, it goes way beyond my understanding. Something deep in the Linux kernel. But the embedded team has not given up, I trust they will also find a solution for it.

Great example is that you can print the inside of an object with a 0.8mm and the outside with 0.4mm. So you keep details on the outside, and get higher printing speed on the inside. And if you set "infill layer thickness" to a multiple of the generic layer thickness, the speed increase is even more (this is also possible with 2x 0.4mm nozzle by the way)

Align the center of the lines.

This is caused by a miscommunication between the Linux board and the Atmel board. There's several causes, most of which (but unfortunately 1 not yet) are solved in the firmware release 3.7 which appeared less than a week ago. Did you already upgrade your printer to 3.7?

It is generally not wise to experiment with the settings. Stay away from speed, flow, extruder temperature and bed temperature, since the default settings in Cura are chosen carefully by the printing specialists at UM. Your PVA looks underextruded, meaning less plastic than planned leaves the nozzle. Ambient moisture is a likely cause. Did this already happen with the first print right out of the bag?

I'm not sure we are miscommunicating now. I was trying to compliment you, maybe the word optimistic isn't the right description. Anyway, I appreciate you sharing your experiences, and looking at the bright side of things!

Wow. You, sir, are one optimistic fellow. Thank you. If you are doing such experiments, would it be an idea to use the UM3 app on your phone to monitor the printer? In case you see the print failing, you can abort the printjob. You would need to create a connection to your home network, but I've read somewhere on this forum that this shouldn't be too difficult.

When exactly do you see the 10mm distance? Is that right after you start manual leveling? Please try the following. Enable Active Leveling (set frequency to 'every print'). Then start your print job. If you see a problem, please describe what you see.

You are right, the infill layer height must be a multiple of the other layer height.

You can look 'under the hood' with /temperature.html Use the ip-address of your printer. You will see setpoint, actual value and control value of all heaters.

I will assume you want to print with extruder 1. Load the model, it will by default be printed on extruder 1.. If you want to print support, check that the support extruder is set to 1. Then check that the brim or the skirt is also set to extruder 1. Don't try to slice for the UM2 and then print on UM3. I'm not sure whether that works, but results will certainly not be optimal.

Opening it up is not difficult and seems like a good idea. Just put the tension indicator to minimum, and open the case with the four screws. Don't forget to set the tension back in the middle position.

Or press "20% infill" in recommended mode (in Cura 2.6, the gradual infill mode has been promoted to the infill settings in recommended mode)

I'm stilll puzzled by this problem, but I have an idea. When we updated the active leveling fw in December, it was thoroughly tested. The test objects that should be 3mm high were measured to be like 2.95 mm on average. Really close to 3. Tested on multiple printers of course. But I think we overlooked one thing: when printing these test objects over and over again, the glass plate never cooled down. In a recent experiment, we focused on the dimensional effects of heating up the printer. These were significant, as can be expected. However, the time constant I found surprisingly high. Distance between nozzle and print bed stabilize only after 10-15 minutes or so. So @Jeffg1, maybe you want to try the following: preheat your print bed for at least 20 minutes and then start active leveling. Is then the first layer thickness what you expect? .

I don't think measuring wall thickness is an accurate way of measuring extrusion amount. Weighing an object is probably more accurate.

That is impossible for me to judge. It seems logical to me that it is first determined whether or not the problem is in the print core.