gr5

It's always a little strange when people spend thousands of dollars on a printer but don't want to spend an extra $10 for premium filament. Anyway, it helps to know what country you are in if you want filament recommendations. eSun is not as good as premium filaments but still quite good. From China. In the USA I would go to printedSolid.com. They have specials all the time and they know filament better than most people. The head of printedSolid could lecture for an hour on filament suppliers and the industry and what's good and what is not. Realize that 3rd party filaments might not fit nicely on the back of your printer so you might have to put it on the floor (which is what I usually do). Especially if you are buying 3 or 5kg spools.

Yes that's me. Yes you would get the other firmware. Once you've done it, you realize how easy it is to load firmware. Almost faster to just try it than to ask. It takes less than a minute I think to transfer the whole firmware into the Ultimaker.

Support Overhang Angle is the setting in Cura I'm talking about. Set that to 10 degrees to see if it starts supporting your pyramid.

Okay I think I see what you are talking about. In the first photo of the first post, ALL the gray area is support. Except the lighter gray area in the rear left. If that first photo was taken with "line type" as the coloring (maybe you should still do that for other people to understand!) then most of what is visible in the first photo would be teal colored and it would be obvious what was support and what was model. So it looks like you have this pyramid shaped point that goes down into those square holes in the other part which is a cylinder. Although why is it triangular here but square in the cylinder??? I'm still confused. Okay, I'm still quite confused but if that triangular spot is the problem then it's not getting support because by default it looks at the angle of surfaces and if they are vertical they don't get support. If they are horizontal they do. There is an angle in between that either gets or doesn't depending on the angle of the surface. The angle is typically around 60 degrees (from vertical) I think. I'm thinking that because that little pyramid doesn't have a flat bottom it doesn't get any support. Try changing the angle to like 10 degrees to see if the pyramid gets support - just as a quick test. If that's the problem then it's not easy to fix because 10 degrees will put support *everywhere*. Instead you could design your own support in CAD. That's the way I would go. Or alternatively maybe give the pyramid a flat bottom. Or I could be wrong about why there is not support. Or I could be wrong about what the issue you are having is.

Still no photos above. The only photo is from the original post. Log out of gmail and any other google services and then look at this post. There will be no photos.

Our expert, @burtoogle, has been missing from the forum for 3 weeks. He's probably very busy with other things. This wouldn't be the first time he "disappeared" for a month. I'm in a slack group with him and ahoeben and he hasn't spoken there in a while either. Hopefully he is fine.

Oops. Yes. I think I "pointed" you to an HBK version (which is what I have on my 3 um2gos) without thinking. If you load the wrong one you won't break anything. The HBK one will complain that the bed is too hot. Similarly with the dual extruder firmware - it will complain that extruder 2 is too hot.

I don't see any pictures. Okay - it looks like they are hosted on google and we don't have authorization to see them. Maybe if you modify the pics so they are visible to anyone? I still don't understand what I'm seeing in the first picture. I think of jars (and tip jars) as very simple cylinders. I understand you mention led light channels but no clue on the 3d path for those. Why doesn't the bottom of the jar touch the print bed? It might help if you use "line type" for your coloring because right now it's almost all dark gray and hard to tell what is support, what is shell, what is infill.

I don't understand the question. You are talking about that small triangle - right where the nozzle is - in the photo above. Right? If so: 1) Is that the begining of some kind of support? If so then there is something called "support blocker". I'm pretty sure it existed back in 3.6 as well. 2) Or is that part of the model in which case... what do you want cura to do? Is your model a tiny triangle hanging over nothing? And if so how would you expect it to get printed? 3) Or is that entire region supposed to be filled in but you haven't shown us that yet? If so, that shouldn't happen - there's a feature called "bridging" that spans areas like that with long straight lines supported on each end. Or maybe your part bottom isn't level here and that's the issue. Anyway, we need to know a little bit more about the level you are showing now - what does it do next? And is it printing model? Or infill?

I didn't post a link? tinkerMarlin is here: https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases I have posted that link thousands of times and didn't realize I didn't post it in this thread. Sorry. Click on version 19.03.1 then read each description. You probably want the 9th hex file. Then you can use any version of cura (or many other arduino software) to load the hex file - you need a USB cable to connect from your computer to your printer (what kind of computer do you have? pc/mac/linux?) This link has pictures of the meduza and iroberti so you can see how it all goes together. It also has links to some (all?) of the files you need on youmagine. The meduza needs special parts you have to order so it's more work. I get them all on ebay or aliexpress. http://gr5.org/med/

Please link to it from here so other's with the same issue can read up on progress/discussion and can chime in over on github.

This topic is completely public. Anyone can chime in. But there are a lot of topics.

If you disable jerk and/or acceleration control it should use the defaults on the printer itself. Which might be set too high. Most printer's these days use some version of Marlin and some versions of Marlin let you set motion parameters in the menu system. Things like max speed, acceleration, jerk. For each axis.

Or I think you can just uncheck "jerk control" and "acceleration control".

I don't know the answer. Just raising the temperature a bit will make the printer extrude a few % more and now support will bond more with the part. 1) There is a setting "support z distance". That is probably the crucial one. Make sure it is equal (or larger) to your layer height. If your layer height is 0.1 then support distance of 0.15 and 0.19 will not do anything different. But 0.2 will be more than 0.1. I very very rarely use support so I'm not an expert and not sure what 0.2 z distance means for 0.2 layer height - is it the very next layer? Or the layer after? You can ask cura by setting it to each possibility and checking if there is a "blank" layer in preview mode. 2) You can see what settings you have changed in cura from the default profile. At the top of the settings there is a box next to the word "Profile". In that box it should say "fine 0.1" or "fast 0.2" or similar. On the right side there is a star (if you have made changes). Click that star. In the box that pops up on the lower right look for settings that are crossed out (it means you overrode that setting with the value in the "current" column). And look for settings that are italic. Also click on the tab above that: "Extruder 1" and check those settings. This shows you what you have overridden in the profile.

@BugMeYetAgain - it's important to have both files - the content and the signature file - on the USB.

I have photos of what the bottom layer should look like - adjust height until you get the right "look". See 1:07 in this video: https://youtu.be/t58-WTxDy-k?t=67

Thinking some more, backlash seems like the most likely culprit. With the printer not moving, push the nozzle around in x and y (if you have a printer where the bed moves, push that around also). Push gently - like the force of 2 sticks of butter's weight. The nozzle/bed should not move - not even 1/4mm. If it does, check if it's the belts, or something else is loose.

Strange. Well you need to concentrate on the bottom layer. Don't let the print continue until you have a good bottom layer. The good news is you get feedback early on in the print and don't have to wait 10 minutes to know if you fixed the problem. 1) So what kind of surface are you printing on? This is the most critical question. is this metal? Whatever it is, I think you need to add something to this surface. Like possibly painters tape? or a layer of some kind of glue. A popular thing to use is 1 part wood glue to 10 parts water, paint it on, let it dry. But I don't recommend doing that for necessarily every surface and I have no idea what this surface is you are printing on. 2) The bottom layer needs to squish more. Does your printer have a manual leveling procedure? If so, level another 0.1 to 0.2mm lower. 3) You may have some backlash issues (look it up on wikipedia). Or maybe not. But that might partly explain why the infill isn't reaching the walls. Does your printer have belts? If so, pluck them to see if they play an audible note. Typically you want the belts at around 100 to 200 Hz for open lengths of 8 inches (20cm). Higher pitch for shorter belts. You can download a guitar tuning app if you want to check the frequency of your belt vibrations. 4) You might have some underextrusion but... probably not. Printing slower always improves underextrusion issues. Make sure the bottom layer is nice and slow at 20mm/sec. I think your issues may be purely #1 and/or #2.

There are multiple versions of the tinkerGnome firmware for um2 series printers including 2 for um2go (with and without heated bed). So as long as you select one of the ones for um2go it will insert the filament properly for the um2go bowden. By the way, on my printers with the meduza/iRoberti feeder combo I don't use the menu system to insert and remove filament. I just pull it out and slide in the new filament. Similarly with my UM3 and S5.

layer delamination is common - it means the hot layer you are putting down is not melting the layer below so they aren't sticking well. This is very rare with PLA but common in higher temp materials like PETG. 1) Lower fan speed. Play with your fan until it sounds like it is half as loud. Go quieter half again. Write down that fan % and use that in cura for PETG 2) Raise printing temp (usually this is not advised - I think most manufacturers like around 240C for PETG? Look it up) 3) Raise air temp - if you have heated bed and if you can enclose the printer - even just the 4 sides - this will help keep the part from cooling too much. I like 80C for heated bed temp for PETG.

Now you have a new issue - the bottom layer is underextruded. 90% of the time this is due to leveling. You want it to squish the bottom layer more. Otherwise your parts are likely to come loose. So if you have manual leveling - level another 0.1mm closer to the bed. If you have autoleveling - tell cura to over extrude the bottom layer - e.g. flow=150% (but bottom layer only).

Most apps don't use OpenGL.

The bowden is pretty easy to cut to length. The bowden is not symmetrical. One end has a conical inside reamed out to guide the filament into the bowden at the feeder end. UM used to mark that end with a piece of tape. You can tell which is which by looking into both ends and looking at the inside diameter. When cutting the bowden, cut the other end far from the feeder. Make it the same length as the original bowden that came with the printer. If you are off by a few cm it's fine.

To clarify - I don't work for Ultimaker and I've never edited Cura. I was clarifying for other readers who have worked on Cura but with the forum it is hit or miss. There's just too many posts every day to follow them all. I'll grab the attention of 2 people who *don't* work for Ultimaker but have contributed (for free). One is @ahoeben One of them, @burtoogle, even owns a delta printer so maybe he has the same issue as you with PETG stringing. It might help/motivate people to write this option into Cura if you showed a photo of your wipe brush/device. In theory it could be very low down or quite high up on the printer I suppose? I have printed about 3 spools of PETG this past summer and haven't noticed much stringing and never noticed any brown glob drops into the print. @stf note that you get much more attention if you log an "issue" on the github tracker. You have to create an account with github (everyone on the planet should get one as it's handy and free). Then go here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues Try to be clear and succinct. Include the photos above. Explain clearly that there is an X position for wipe but there needs to be an x,y, and z position. I'm worried that if it just moves to the position it will come up or down at the brush in such an angle that it will either miss it completely (heading down to the brush) or smack into the brush holder (coming up to the brush). A photo of your wipe device would be helpful. Again - the person who wrote this feature was thinking that the brush would not move in Z relative to the nozzle. This is true of very many printers.